|
| Steady ED |
|
|||
|
So about 125rwkw, from a 182fwkw (factory figure) car.
About a 31% driveline loss for this vehicle. It's pretty much around everyones guesses.
_________________ ED XR8 Sprint - S-Trim, V500, 249rwkw |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| v8capri |
|
||
|
You say correction factor at zero.
do the run on a 10 deg day and on a 30 deg day. without correction, you will see some changes. also what weather was the original ford engine run at, I bet that was done with atmospheric correction.
_________________ BA Ghia 320 rwkw @ FordMods dyno day
|
||
| Top | |
||
| FPV_GTp |
|
||
|
v8capri wrote: You say correction factor at zero.
do the run on a 10 deg day and on a 30 deg day. without correction, you will see some changes. also what weather was the original ford engine run at, I bet that was done with atmospheric correction. ok maybe i should of word it differently the air temp sensor at the snork measure the anbaint air temperature and the software does the corrections whether im testing on a 10 degree day or whether im testing on 40 degree day the compensation is doen automatically dyno dynanmics introduced this correction factor in there main screan for some reason which i have no explanation for some dynos have it some dont im under the impression there lates dyno software do no allow u to thudge the dyno figure by using the correction fact X . so the dyno figure im quoting is taken into consideration the air temp the test was conducted i have seen some guys run there air temperature sensor for the dyno pinned on the workshop wall and all sorts of other places which doesnt read the correct incoming air into the engine so if the sensors is attached to something very warm(hot) or very cold it will make a h compensation adjustment to the horsepower reading higher or lower figure cheers
_________________ WANTED - Complete BTr4 and zf 6hp26 automatic transmission 6 cylinder and V8 transmission(s) suit rebuild? Drop me a PM if you can help would be greatly appreciated - thanks |
||
| Top | |
||
| falcon4litreOHC |
|
|||
|
Ford 6CYL.................................
Stock BA : 125 RWKW Stock MPI EA-ED : 90-95 RWKW Stock EF/EL/AU : 100-105 RWKW Stock EA CFI : 75-80 RWKW |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ElwoodBlues |
|
||
|
FPV_GTp
You were closest Will there be mods done on this car and dynoing after each mod to see the difference in power?
_________________ EF Futura factory 5 spd
|
||
| Top | |
||
| USELESS |
|
||
|
That is a bit surprising. Most ba fords put out 135rwkws. Perhaps they were manual. Allowing for manual to auto lossess ...this puts the autos power drain compared to manual at 10 rwkws.
_________________ 14.77 @92.71mph July 06 14.52@95.68mph July 07 14.241 96.7 MPH in a shoebox/taxi au ford wagon!!Bwahahah still cant believe it!!! |
||
| Top | |
||
| jonbays |
|
||
|
Looks about right for a dead stock auto. I have seen a BA Manaul ute with cat back exhaust run 135rwkw thats all.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| tickford_6 |
|
||
Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
voids wrote: most of the stories ive heard when problems happen is when th car gets flogged from the start but the cars that get treated easy for the first 5000km go a lot harder and less problems. later thats what i was led to believe but then again a flogged engin isnt going to last as long as a engin treated well. when i worked at the open cut we had a few vehicles and they got rhreemed from day 1 and at 70 000km they go like crap gutless. but the supervisors vehicle that never gets flogged seems to go a lot harder now with the same kms. i'll stick to my theory and drive a new car soft for the first 5000km.
there is a difference between getting flogged and being driven properly. but hey what would i know right. i was only the person rebuilding the engines. don't p***y around a new engine you'll f**k it |
||
| Top | |
||
| smoke_ |
|
|||
|
i agree with tickford_6, but at the same time, i wouldn't redline it or bounce it off the limiter.
_________________ NEW RIDE - FPV FG F6 6spd Auto. 12.26@114MPH, 1.88 60FT on Cheapy Tyres with 38PSI - Stock except K&N filter! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| voids |
|
|||
|
tickford_6 wrote: voids wrote: most of the stories ive heard when problems happen is when th car gets flogged from the start but the cars that get treated easy for the first 5000km go a lot harder and less problems. later thats what i was led to believe but then again a flogged engin isnt going to last as long as a engin treated well. when i worked at the open cut we had a few vehicles and they got rhreemed from day 1 and at 70 000km they go like crap gutless. but the supervisors vehicle that never gets flogged seems to go a lot harder now with the same kms. i'll stick to my theory and drive a new car soft for the first 5000km. there is a difference between getting flogged and being driven properly. but hey what would i know right. i was only the person rebuilding the engines. don't p***y around a new engine you'll f**k it but then what would one class as driven properly? one thing i have done in my car is warm it up before any harsh accelaration and seems to still run prety good.
_________________ '96 DF II LTD 6cy |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Brett 4777 |
|
||
|
Guys i am going to mod this car slowly
so i was just looking for a baseline on what i have so then Ivan and i can work from there first mods are going to be a K & N filter and a ba turbo air intake will post up results when i do this |
||
| Top | |
||
| jonbays |
|
||
|
Brett 4777 wrote: Guys i am going to mod this car slowly
so i was just looking for a baseline on what i have so then Ivan and i can work from there first mods are going to be a K & N filter and a ba turbo air intake will post up results when i do this Wouldn't expect power gains from these mods!? Thats all just service and cosmetic stuff for a stock car. catback exhaust would be the first make a difference on a dyno power mod to do. waste of time to dyno after those mods uless you drop the IT temp sensor on you radiator like the manufactures of this gear to make it look good. |
||
| Top | |
||
| FPV_GTp |
|
||
|
hi
You would be surprised how restrictive a standard air filter is. Just try and run your car without an airfilter in the box and see what happens. cheers
_________________ WANTED - Complete BTr4 and zf 6hp26 automatic transmission 6 cylinder and V8 transmission(s) suit rebuild? Drop me a PM if you can help would be greatly appreciated - thanks |
||
| Top | |
||
| Slick |
|
|||
|
FPV_GTp wrote: hi
You would be surprised how restrictive a standard air filter is. Just try and run your car without an airfilter in the box and see what happens. cheers yeah, probably only on rainy days when the air is clean/dust free & all the bugs are in hiding. already tried it. 
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Brett 4777 |
|
||
|
UPDATE GUYS
this morning i ran the car up again at Ivan's this time with a bf typhoon dual air intake a bf typhoon cold air intake and a k&n hi flow air filter The settings and conditions were exactly the same as the first time we did the dyno runs just to make sure there was no fudging of the figures we made i think 4 dyno runs ramping up and ramping down in second gear so the tests were exactly the same as the first time this time with just these three new items on the car we picked up around nine kws at the wheels will get Ivan to put up the graphs of the day for all to see what the new figures were i have to say it surprised both of us the difference in the readings today from the originals Many thanks to Ivan for helping me with this little project of mine |
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 52 guests |
12.06@120MPH
