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Dyno Dymanics printout.. CK figure 

 

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 Post subject: Dyno Dymanics printout.. CK figure
Posted: Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:48 pm 
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Hey guys,

I was hoping some one in the know could help me out.

Can anyone explain what a CK figure is on the bottom of a dyno, and what impact it has on the dyno readouts?

example, does a higher one mean more power?

Cheers!

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:22 pm 
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i could be wrong but i think it is the correction factor used while in shoot out mode.

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 8:27 pm 
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If it is, I think I uncovered something..

Can anyone confirm this?

 

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Posted: Tue Mar 28, 2006 11:08 pm 
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Goddamit, I read it in a magazine (zoom?), it explained what all the thingos down the bottom meant.
But I can't for the life of me remember.

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 8:21 pm 
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There must be a dyno operator in here...

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 8:54 pm 
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Image

Ok lets see how many I get.

BP: Barometric Pressure (?)
RH: Relative Humidity (%)
AT: Ambient Temp (°C)
IT: Intake Temp (°C)
RR: Ramp Rate (?)
TN: Total Inertia. It's a calibration figurd based on the dyno and shootout mode the run was done in. So should be constant for same dyno + same shootout mode. Certainly has a reading on your power figure. Total Inertia is based on the model of dyno (and it's factory calibration), + the guesstimated inertia produced by vehicles fitting the chosen mode. For s**t and giggles next dyno get your operator to do a run in SHOOT6, then SHOOT8 the power figure will be very different. So it's important that themode is chosen properly, and the dyno has been calibrated by DynoDynamics.
(next line)
date
time
CK: Check number. Simply a way for DynoDynamics to check to see if any of teh numbers on a chart have been fudged with (eg. a photochop). Not anything to do with calibrations, so they'll always be different.
CF: Mode the dyno is run in (SHOOT = shootout, # = cylinders), picking the wrong one here is an easy way to generate inflated figures
TyrePres: Tyre Pressure (PSI)
Gear: self explanatory. Hand entered by the operator, but has no bearing on the result itself, the run should be done with a 1:1 ratio gear selected (ie. 3rd for BTR autos, and 4th for T5s).

I think user "FPV-GTP" runs a dyno.

 

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Last edited by data_mine on Fri Mar 31, 2006 12:16 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 8:56 pm 
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all my runs from Jakes are around 140ish RWKW. The run at DAT (although good enough for best N/A 6 on the OCAu Dyno Day) was only 134RWKW. It score a 143 only two days before at Jakes.

dunno.?!?!??!

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:13 pm 
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When I know what that figure is, and the influence, I'll tell you of the biggest scam i've seen relating to dynos (if of course it can influence the figures)

Or can some one tell me, doing back to back (or side by side) dyno runs, should this figure be the same? I think it should!

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 9:27 pm 
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dyno's, they are great tuning aid. especially if you're doing the rebuilds.

dyno's, they are great to manipulate for the young market. "target = $$$"


Drag Strip, 100% accurate!. :lol:

CK? don't know what it f**k means. :lol:

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 29, 2006 11:16 pm 
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Dunno what CK or TN is, but CK changes even between consecutive runs. I know Jake (of Jakes Performance) well, and trust he's not trying to fool me with bodgy figures.

 

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1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow - 97.5rwkw
2006 BF GT-P in Ego, mods. 293rwkw - 12.427@109 - 0-1000m 24.838@221

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Posted: Fri Mar 31, 2006 12:13 am 
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ok asked Jake today, he didn't know, so he calle dup DynoDynamics directly, and here's the answers.

TN: Total Inertia. It's a calibration figurd based on the dyno and shootout mode the run was done in. So should be constant for same dyno + same shootout mode. Certainly has a reading on your power figure. Total Inertia is based on the model of dyno (and it's factory calibration), + the guesstimated inertia produced by vehicles fitting the chosen mode. For s**t and giggles next dyno get your operator to do a run in SHOOT6, then SHOOT8 the power figure will be very different. So it's important that themode is chosen properly, and the dyno has been calibrated by DynoDynamics.

CK: Check number. Simply a way for DynoDynamics to check to see if any of teh numbers on a chart have been fudged with (eg. a photochop). Not anything to do with calibrations, so they'll always be different.

Wow. All done. (I'll edit my previous post so this is all in one place.

 

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1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow - 97.5rwkw
2006 BF GT-P in Ego, mods. 293rwkw - 12.427@109 - 0-1000m 24.838@221

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