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Dyno tune & Cam 

 

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 Post subject: Dyno tune & Cam
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 6:08 pm 
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Ok today i finally got my Wade 1543b cam dyno tuned and results went backwards from the last cam and tune i got which was a Wade 977b.

I thought going to a cam with more duration and more lift would have helped things a bit but ive lost power everywhere. The tuner said the valve train was noisy at high revs and said the valve springs might not be up to the job even though their Crow items rated at .600" lift and considering this cam isnt very big by all means.

Graph below, dont confuse the before & after graphs, as the Red line is the tune i got a few months ago with a Wade 977b cam, and the Blue line is all they could do today with the Wade 1543b cam, so ive lost 10kw and another graph i have shows ive lost a heap of torque.

A couple things were different between the two runs, as the original run had 10 degree temp difference between Ambient and Intlet but todays effort both temps were the same. Also today was very humid at 80, but the original tune the relative humidty was 35. Could these things affect the readout by so much?

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Last edited by FordFairmont on Fri Jul 25, 2008 10:04 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 6:34 pm 
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Yes, the 10 degree difference between ambient and intake (intake being more) will boost power reading.
That carries alot of weight in shootout mode correction, no idea on humidity difference and how much correction is applied.

AFRs are better on the new tune.
If it was valve floating the power would drop off sharper, so valvetrain noise might not be a valve spring issue.

How does it feel to drive is probably the most important thing.

 

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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 6:46 pm 
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thanks for the info.....

Steady ED wrote:

How does it feel to drive is probably the most important thing.


ive yet to take it for a spin as its been pissing down all day. The idle is noticably better, even though the ISC is blocked off.

Im thinking this cam might need higher compression to run its best?

Specs:
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Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:23 pm 
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More lift and duration is good for power but that would be up the top end of the power range.

You may have lots of overlap which you will lose power due to lost air/fuel charge coming into the engine and lost through the exhaust valve.

This can be checked by using a Dynamic compression ratio formula, if you have all the other engine detail.

Either go back to the other cam or stick a 1636 cam in, I have done a DCR on the 1636 and found it to be a good cam for Normally aspirated applications.

http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html

 

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Posted: Fri Jul 25, 2008 6:06 pm 
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Thanks for the info, so too much overlap needs a higher comp to make up for it? I went to that link you posted and understood it, but holy s**t theres alot of info to take in. So if i dial the cam in, i have to factor in the 'give' in the hla? If so, then anyone know how much the hla moves before pushing on the valve?

Today the roads have dried up and got to take the car for a quick spin. I can honestly say there is more power than there was before the re-tune, whether its more than with the old cam im not sure

But i do know that now its impossible to be full throttle at any revs in 1st gear without frying the rears. Next mod is LSD.... or 4480 headers, depending how long my current headers last with heat wrap :)
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Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 9:44 pm 
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The right valve springs for a cam are determend on the ramp rate of the cam lobe for the right spring pressures open & closed. Max. lift is also considered so the spring will not coil bind. Maybe you are getting valve float at high rpm which will rob you of hp/kw. Maybe you should ring up wade cams to get more info on what springs suit that cam.

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:04 pm 
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ive rung wade before about valve spring q's, and havnt really got a decent answer
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Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:16 pm 
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GET THE LSD !!! :D:D:D
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Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:30 pm 
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what other mods does your engine have? because 148 rwkw is still good!!

 

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Posted: Sat Jul 26, 2008 10:45 pm 
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gogetta wrote:
what other mods does your engine have? because 148 rwkw is still good!!


In deed it is :D.

Were both runs taken when the car was at operating temperature? I mean running an engine during cold with a cam seems to give me more oomph then when it has warmed up...

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:53 am 
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get yor head shaved for comp and clean up a little 3 angle valve job bigger exhaust valave shoudl see it sing alot better mine gettgin done as we speak results will be in the next few weeks

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:15 am 
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stoj79 wrote:
get yor head shaved for comp and clean up a little 3 angle valve job bigger exhaust valave shoudl see it sing alot better mine gettgin done as we speak results will be in the next few weeks


hopefully it picks up your time, 15.4 @ 91 is abysmal for those sort of mods. should at least be poking towards the 14's.

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:10 pm 
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I've looked at a lot of cams from differant companies & every cam that has got over 520 lift they say you need valve springs. Look into it.
I realy like the camtech cam stage 2 CT006 833.
I would go for that cam for myself but i am limited with the auto box & std ecu. That cam needs valve springs aswell. Maybe ring camtech cams & speak to malcom to find out what springs to use for that cam as it's very simular to your cam.

 

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Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 12:49 pm 
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cheers will do
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Posted: Sun Jul 27, 2008 2:19 pm 
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what other mods do u have?

i dont think you are going to see a massive improvement from changing valve springs, if they arent up to scratch i would have thought it would occur at a specific rpm point and not act broadly across the range as it has

 

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