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EA MPI refuses to fire! Suggestions Please 

 

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 Post subject: EA MPI refuses to fire! Suggestions Please
Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 10:52 am 
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I pulled the EA head off last week to replace the head gasket... Came apart easily and went back together after a slight hiccup with the timimng chain tensioner (manual did not say to remove and then retension it!)
After reassembly, all visibile timimng (TDC on Crank, rockers @ no.1 closed and at no.6 rocking, Camshaft @ 3 o'clock, rotor pointing to lead no. 1)marks lined up, so i rotated the engine by hand to make sure every thing was moving as it should. All marks keep coming back into alignment.

My problem is that I apear to have the timing right (I can't see how it is wrong... checked a million times over the past three days!), the fuel lines are pressurizing (loosening off the supply hose sends out spray) injectors have power and the plugs are getting wet, and i have spark that jumps a 1cm gap.

The engine rotates freely, makes all sounds like it wants to start, but just wont catch! No back fire, just sounding umm... lumpy? Dunno how to best describe it... maybe like a worked motor at low rpm? It just won't go anyway!

I have replaced the coil, distributor cap, rotor button, leads, plugs, tfi mod., swapped relays, probed cleaned and greased all wiring conections that i can find and reach and now don't know what to try next. Alll vacums appear to be connected top and bottom of inlet manifold, MAP sensor is good. Going to try swapping the fuel regulator from the El over when itgets home... i think it is a waste of time but if it rules something else out...

Distributor has previously been out, if it has been put in one tooth out would this be the cause? But then why would my timing marks line up? And why would it run without hiccup for 2 yrs and not work at all now? Leads are difinately on the right way... had it in and out a million times double checking, lead to coil is definately on, main earth going to engine block is secure (dont know if there are any others i should be looking for), fusible relays have same input as output.

I need suggestions please, i don't know what else to look for. Thanks in advance, Meg
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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 12:10 pm 
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wild stab, its 180 out?

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 12:16 pm 
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not possible... dizzy has not been removed/replaced in the last two yrs. It may be a tooth out apparently... i dunno.. i didn't put it in... but it has been running without hiccup regardless.. so i am 100% it is not, can not be 180 out.... plus the rotor button it is pointing to no1 lead when at tdc and the cam mark is @ 3 oclock... thanks anyway... any more ideas?
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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 1:45 pm 
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not possible... dizzy has not been removed/replaced in the last two yrs. It may be a tooth out apparently... i dunno.. i didn't put it in... but it has been running without hiccup regardless.. so i am 100% it is not, can not be 180 out.... plus the rotor button it is pointing to no1 lead when at tdc and the cam mark is @ 3 oclock... thanks anyway... any more ideas?
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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 2:06 pm 
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there is a pink and white wire near the aircon compresser and close to the dizy see if it is connecked
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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 2:11 pm 
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If you're getting spark, there was no likely reason you should have replaced the tfi. I'd still be looking at it being 180 degrees out. You have it top dead centre as you said, but you didn't say if it was on compression or exhaust.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:02 pm 
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I am guessing it is compression stroke because the camshaft timing mark is at 3 o'clock as opposed to 9oclock. Rocker arms on number 1 are fully extended meaning the valves are closed.. yes? and the rocker arms on number 6 are supposedly rocking... not that i can see what the hell they mean by that!
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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:05 pm 
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just take the #1 plug out and stick your finger over it while turning the engine by hand

Got a timing light handy? check the timing mark during crank and see if you're on the mark or close to it.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:30 pm 
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' is a pink and white wire near the aircon compresser and close to the dizy see if it is connecked'

what does this wire connect to.. i haven't found it yet so i don't know if it is disconnected. About to look now.
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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:33 pm 
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if its the wire i'm thinking of, i think it went to the tfi thru a single white plug. If its unplugged you won't get a spark tho.

Thats only from memory from my EB - someone else might be able to check for sure.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 3:57 pm 
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That pink wire from memory is the injector power, how did you test to see if the injectors are spraying?

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 5:01 pm 
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Ample fuel on the plugs, all plugs, when pulled out after cranking. On a suggestion i just pulled the intake manifold back off to double check that the gasket was not blocking the injector... lots of fuel smell coming out... too much fuel.. i don't know... but i am guessing that the injectors are working if they are pumping out fuel
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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 5:13 pm 
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if it isn't the pink wire . the only thing it can surgest is take the tappet cover off. and see if the cam is on tdc.and the piston is on tdc and the timing mark is on the balancer. if it is on tdc the number one valves are closed .and the dizy is on number one lead i hope this helps.
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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 5:15 pm 
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Hmm, so spark is strong. Fuel is present.

Another possiblilty, maybe the wrong air/fuel ratio, intake isn't blocked? Check you haven't knocked the vacuum hose out of the map sensor.

Get someone to crank the engine and stick in a compression guage to make sure each cylinder falls into acceptable range.

Short of those ideas, maybe do the ECU diagnostics that may detect any instantaneous problems.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 11, 2007 6:50 pm 
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is there fuel coming out the return hose ? i stoodged myself the first time when i connected them backwards n couldn't figure out why it wasn't starting..

 

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