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EBII lumpy & missing @ operating temp 

 

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 Post subject: EBII lumpy & missing @ operating temp
Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 11:18 am 
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hey guys, im new to Fordmods

ive got a EBII

it had over heating problems (like most cars its age) so i replaced the leaking hoses/hose clamps, this caused the radiator side tank to split dumping all my cooland causing the engine to "seize" due to heat (temp gauge was 1/2 due to no water getting to the temp sender)

so i replaced the radiator and gave it a drive, within 5 mins it over heated again,

i felt the upper radiator hose and it was cold, as if the coolant was not making it through the radiator, but it was pressurised on both sides, so i concluded that the thermostat must be blocked, sure enough it was, pulled it out and drove it home with no thermostat, no heat issues, replaced the thermostat and it hasnt got past 1/2 temp since however since the engine "seized" (ive been told they do this when they get hot) when ever it reaches open loop mode (operating temp) it will miss consistantly as if every ignition, ive compression tested the motor and all cyclinders are equal pressure, no oil in coolant no coolant in oil, it is perfect untill it reaches operating temp. ive listened to the motor through a large screw driver and it all sounds normal, injectors are ticking normal and equal so ive concluded it must be the electronical system,

considering it has a dissy + ignition coil i was wondering if you have to put the ecu into self diag mode (i have to do this on my holden v8 to set the correct static timing)

im thinking its possible it could be the ignition coil

now it did this when it got hotter before the radiator broke but not till 3/4 temp

has anyone got any idea's? i dont have much experiance with fords or the inline6 as i havnt had the car for long
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Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 10:31 pm 
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any idea's?

i also noticed if i remove cyc1's spark lead it dosnt idle worse, or the injector, its sparking & spraying but how well is the question,

compression tested the cyc and it was normal...

im thinking the dissy cap may be broken?
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Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 10:35 pm 
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only one way to find out... pull it out and have a look! i just replaced the dissy cap in my EB series I as it was worn out. i guess it's worth checking...

 

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Posted: Sat May 17, 2008 1:46 pm 
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yeah, ill give it a go,

do i have to put the car in any special mode to display static timing?
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Posted: Sat May 17, 2008 5:25 pm 
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checked the static timing it was @ 10deg

is it normal to remove cyc 1 spark plug lead/injector plug and for the idle not to change? (it is sparking and spraying)

im starting to suspect a blown headgasket, but ive blown then before and it usually goes worse under load
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Posted: Sun May 18, 2008 9:29 pm 
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I don't know about your main residual problems, but if the temp guage is still going to half it might be worth checking the fan's viscous hub, if you haven't already. I recently checked mine plus another one i had and they were both stuffed. They seemed okay at first but after more thorough evaluation were definitely stuffed, so watch out for that. A new one improved things at highway speeds as well as at lower speeds. I also just got my radiator professionally cleaned, it was running about 50% because of casting sand. It now runs steady at one third, which sees the needle exactly horizontal.

 

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Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 5:51 pm 
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yeah, the temprature goes from 1/3-1/2 which is within operating ranges so thats normal, system is %100 pressurised,

but could the engine fan cause the car to miss?

the exhaust also moves violently, as if the ignition did not occour correctly but on every stroke..

the car hasn't broken down yet so its hard to find the exact fault...

i wouldnt be suprised if the fan clutch was broken however i dont think it's the cause of my troubbles
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Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 6:34 pm 
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theunnamed wrote:
yeah, the temprature goes from 1/3-1/2 which is within operating ranges so thats normal, system is %100 pressurised,

but could the engine fan cause the car to miss?

the exhaust also moves violently, as if the ignition did not occour correctly but on every stroke..

the car hasn't broken down yet so its hard to find the exact fault...

i wouldnt be suprised if the fan clutch was broken however i dont think it's the cause of my troubbles


spark plugs might be stuffed due to the overheating? Or the leads shat themselves.

Pull the distributor cap off and have a look at it, no need to put it into any mode that I know off, just pull it off and put it back making sure the leads go in the right way.

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Tue May 20, 2008 8:49 pm 
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yeah dissy cap was next on my list, ive pulled the plugs (when i did the comp test) and they looked normal

i inspected the leads (they're 1 month old aswell) but they're not fouled, cracked etc (had this happen on another car i built with a few turbo's hanging off it)

i found out you need to bridge 2 pins on the diag port to put the car into self test mode to display static timing aswell btw!

ill get back to you once ive checked the dissy cap and rotor, has anyone got a link to the ford plug location? on my v8 i got lazy and wrote on it with white out to mark the points:P
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 Post subject: did i mention i love ford I6's????
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 5:02 pm 
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found the problem... it was they even circled it in blue

My milk shake brings all the tools to the car.. because my milkshake is better than yours, because my milk shake is made in a ford....

need i say more lol..........

Ill be changing it next weekend if i can be stuffed... (if anyone is wondering its a blown headgasket)

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Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 6:44 pm 
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Don't you just hate that!!! done that job once, i'm not looking forward to that happening again...

 

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Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 7:06 pm 
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Did my first headgasket about 6 months after buying my EB1 Fairmont 3.9L........ about 1 Month later I bent a rod with water (compression lock) following my cousin into the gold coast floods he was in his 4b.... So then it was Hybrid EL engine conversion time. and then 1000 other mods lol

 

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Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 7:07 pm 
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OHHHHHHHHHHHHH before you do that job..... im sure others will agree...

get the head flattened, and get an AU Headgasket and bolts... much more reliable. dont blow very often.

 

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Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 7:31 pm 
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Hrmm, how much do AU headgaskets go for? and headbolts?

is the bolt pattern the same? extra bolt holes or less bolt holes?

ive got a new head going on with some tighter valve springs and a cam... which i scored for free

imo im looking to get this thing fixed as cheap as possible, as i don't really drive this car, my missus uses it to get to and from work

ive done headgaskets before with just cleaning the surface and original headbolts without an issue, i know headgasket bolts can be retorqued but some bolts cannot like 8 bolt flywheel/flex plate bolts :P they strech..

it only blew due to over heating... im just happy i found the problem, whats the easiest way with the valve train?

can i just ziptie the gear onto the chain and unbolt it and side the head out over the chain? will this work?

im not familiar with these motors if not can someone link me to a timing guide on them? ive heard its just match the dots... (lol i tried that on my v8... little did i know it was ment to be 9 links apart :P)


ALSO does anyone know the torque setting of ford head bolts? (should come with the gasket) but if not is it something like 80nm? most engine internals are anyway
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Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 7:38 pm 
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ahh after speaking to a mate he reckons the headbolts strech soo going to have to replace them
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