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| frankieh |
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I bought an aftermarket MLS gasket and bolts from a guy on here... (mls multi layer steel)
cheaper than ford and worked fine. Jamie, also called 66coupe.. but I can't guarantee he will have more or want to get them... but I guess there is no harm in pm'ing him. |
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| the_scotsman |
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frankieh wrote: I bought an aftermarket MLS gasket and bolts from a guy on here... (mls multi layer steel) cheaper than ford and worked fine. Jamie, also called 66coupe.. but I can't guarantee he will have more or want to get them... but I guess there is no harm in pm'ing him. Ah ok thanks, I'll chase him up about it. |
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| snap0964 |
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the_scotsman wrote: I've never done the valve stem seals before, that means removing the valve springs etc yes? I don't have a valve spring remover, otherwise it would be good to do them as I didn't last time. I've got a valve spring compressor somewhere - might need a bit of bolstering to do the job. Also have a valve lapper and paste around too.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| the_scotsman |
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snap0964 wrote: the_scotsman wrote: I've never done the valve stem seals before, that means removing the valve springs etc yes? I don't have a valve spring remover, otherwise it would be good to do them as I didn't last time. I've got a valve spring compressor somewhere - might need a bit of bolstering to do the job. Also have a valve lapper and paste around too.Was thikning supercheap would have something for a half decent price, but borrowing one would be even better. Same with lapper and paste...I'll hit you up tomorrow when I have prices for gaskets etc... Thanks 
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| gogetta |
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dont lap in your valves, its not the way to do it if you want a quality job....if your valves and seats need recutting get an engine shop to do it....
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| snap0964 |
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If there is evidence of recession or deterioration to affect sealing, then I'd agree with that, but to just give a quick clean and remove slight carbon deposits, I can't see a lap doing any harm.
It's also a good indicator on how well the valve is contacting the seat. The engine specialists will correct me if I'm wrong.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| cjh |
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Usually they do a vacuum test on the valves, if better than 85%, they leave it go, any less, valves out, cut seats & grind valves.
I use Hylamar on my gaskets...I don't trust that powdery/slippery finnish that some head gaskets have. I also use super glue to hold the rubber seal down for the top of the cam chain cover, and I use Toyota black from the top of the rubber seal as well as at the sides to tie in the head gasket and rubber seal. I have been doing it this way for about 10 years or so, never had a leak. Another thing is i don't put coolant back in for about 2 weeks, and the radiator cap is only on the first click. Gives the head gasket a chance to stick.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| the_scotsman |
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Just called my local Fraud dealer. They want $87 for an AU head gasket...a little better than I thought from them. 66 coupe wanted a bit more to cover postage as it needs to be packaged well. Might just get one from Fraud.
Ray, I'll drop into Everlast on the way home from work and suss out pricing for Durapro gasket kits there and let you know. What's the benefit of running just straight water for a few weeks after a head gasket change? Less chemical reaction to let it bond/seal? I'm guessing running the rad cap on first click is top keep pressure to a minimum for a while to for the same reason? |
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| frankieh |
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you MUST have new head bolts.. do NOT use the old ones or you will kill it again.
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| the_scotsman |
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frankieh wrote: you MUST have new head bolts.. do NOT use the old ones or you will kill it again. Yea thanks, I realise that... |
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| Slick |
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before you start, make sure the block is cleaned well and square. a nice razor scrapper does a better job then those grinders I hear people are using nowa days.
_________________ Mind f**k!!! it works on feeble minded ignorant sheeples... there's plenty of em on this site... some are very intelligent but by god they are so thick!!! Pakrat wrote: You can buy them seppertly
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| cjh |
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the_scotsman wrote: What's the benefit of running just straight water for a few weeks after a head gasket change? Less chemical reaction to let it bond/seal? I'm guessing running the rad cap on first click is top keep pressure to a minimum for a while to for the same reason? Glycol is a very slippery chemical...finds it way through anything...yes..to let the head gasket bond. When I swapped over my head from the EA to the ED, I needed a 4' length of pipe in the exhaust port to break the seal...ripped the gasket apart..half stuck to block, the other to the head. Yes same reason for the radiator cap.
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| the_scotsman |
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cjh wrote: Glycol is a very slippery chemical...finds it way through anything...yes..to let the head gasket bond. When I swapped over my head from the EA to the ED, I needed a 4' length of pipe in the exhaust port to break the seal...ripped the gasket apart..half stuck to block, the other to the head. Yes same reason for the radiator cap. Cool thanks....will definately do this then. cjh wrote: When I swapped over my head from the EA to the ED, I needed a 4' length of pipe in the exhaust port to break the seal...ripped the gasket apart..half stuck to block, the other to the head. F**k, that must have been fun! |
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| cjh |
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the_scotsman wrote: cjh wrote: When I swapped over my head from the EA to the ED, I needed a 4' length of pipe in the exhaust port to break the seal...ripped the gasket apart..half stuck to block, the other to the head. F**k, that must have been fun! I thought i was going to bust an engine mount or a gut....it was that hard.
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| eb xr6 falcon |
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Au gaskit use hylomar gaskit spray 30 nm + 120 degrees use water for a week then another 10 degrees on head bolts it is fine to retorque the head bolts as long as you dont back them off.
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