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Engine removal 


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 Post subject: Engine removal
Posted: Tue May 14, 2013 10:52 pm 
Oompa Loompa

Age: 48

Posts: 22

Joined: 3rd Nov 2011

Ride: EB wagon

Location: Benalla
VIC, Australia

Hi Guys,

Am about to do the head gasket on my 4.0.
Am also going to do the timing chain and therefore gaskets.
So I will have to remove the sump also.
Was going to try and do it in car, but looks like it will be way to hard.
1st question is Can I remove the engine without have to take the intake manifold out.
I would just like to take the block out by itself.

2nd question Is there anything else I should replace while the engine is out ?


 Post subject: Re: Engine removal
Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 12:40 am 
Fordmods Junkie
User avatar

Posts: 11750

Joined: 17th May 2005

Gallery: 11 images

Ride: EL Fairmont, VFR400 racer

Power: 144 rwkw

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

Pretty sure the engine lift points are bolted via manifolds. Although you could probably remove the manifolds and use shorter bolts to hold lifting tabs in place. You can unbolt the transmission from the block though, makes it easier to lift out, but it is a pain in the a*** to remove the bolts.

While the engine is out you should also change the welsh plugs and sump gasket (if you weren't planning on doing that). If your heater by pass tube is rusting and/or in bad shape, I'd replace it for a good second hand one or maybe make one up if you have the capabilities.

That's all I can think off at the moment.



phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

 Post subject: Re: Engine removal
Posted: Wed May 15, 2013 1:23 am 
Oompa Loompa

Posts: 29

Joined: 9th Aug 2012

Ride: Which One?

Location: Riverina
NSW, Australia

:idea: Rear main seal, without a doubt.
Check loom conditions for heat/age damage.
Any vac & hoses, esp clamp condition. O ring on heater bypass tube.
+1 on the welsh plugs
Rubber boot for PCV valve which has now been cooked into a piece of rock.
Get new head bolts - thr're cheap now anyway, someone correct me but don't reuse old torque-to-yield head bolts.
Follow torque sequence and stages religiously.

Ahhh, short cuts that turn out to be long cuts :lol:

I have my doubts about it being worth the contortions trying to leave the inlet manifold behind. If you've got the log manifold there is the dizzy,coil, heater in/out, their small diameter bypass hose, assorted wiring, the engine mount to block bolts, aircon compressor stays behind unless you want a re-gas, the top bell-housing bolts, starter... IMO the Ford E's were designed by drunken monkeys as far as access goes. :roll: Then there is a mixture of imperial and metrics. WTF were the engineers thinking?

I put a trolley jack under the rear of the gearbox, undid those bolts and used a controlled let down on the jack to lift the front of the motor upwards. Its hard on the engine mounts so be cautious. This gave easier access to those bell housing bolts with extension bar and flexy. Attach the chain to the lift points that are rear exhaust manifold #6 across to front intake #1. But then I've still got the OE lift brackets on my engine and these brackets have a span onto multiple bolt holes. I really wouldn't recommend a single bolt into the manifold through the a chain - IMO dodgy on those head holes.

Happy by-product of canting the nose of the engine up is that that's a good angle for the sump to clear the radiator support panel. Remember the aircon condenser is easily damaged. Obviously take radiator out too.

:idea: Patience is a virtue, never found in a man and seldom in a woman as me ole Grannie used to say.
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