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| Timmeh |
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To start with I got an idling problem which at least once has stalled the engine. It fluctuates and has a flat spot at low rpms. Anywhere from 400 to 1200rpm idle.
Indicators only work intermittently depending on where the wheel is and the cruise control stopped working, the on off bottons work but the set+ and set- and resume dont work. Clutch pedal has small amount of sideways play and feels like its graunchy when changing at 3000+ rpm but not as bad a lower rpms. Front passenger door actuator is stuck in a position so all other doors match it. From the inside I can open the door and it will unlock so all other doors unlock. If I lock it and shut it all other doors lock but I cant use the remote to open them. I have to catch the doors in the cycling phase so I can open it and then I get in and they all lock again. Wierd s**t. All this has happened in a week. All this could of been done under warranty if Ford hadnt of cancelled the extended warranty on it. Man this is gonna cost a packet to fix. Donations welcome . 
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| drazull |
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Yeah my EF XR is giving me many worries right now.
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| Interceptor |
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why did they cancel the extended warranty?
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| tickford_6 |
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Posts: 6449 Joined: 11th Nov 2004 |
you might find that your cruise control problem is directly realated to your clutch pedal problem.
there is a switch on your clutch pedal that turns you cruise to cost if you push the clutch down. if your pedal is not hitting the switch properly your cruise will not work. |
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| Mitch_ |
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Posts: 6168 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 |
Timmeh wrote: Indicators only work intermittently depending on where the wheel is and the cruise control stopped working, the on off bottons work but the set+ and set- and resume dont work.
we had this problem...its the indicator relay...will cost $40ish from ford...or $5 at the local wreckers!
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| Timmeh |
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Interceptor wrote: why did they cancel the extended warranty?
Probably because it was a transfer from someone to me. Katastrophe had the car before me and he had things done under the warranty. He went 7 months instead of 6 for servicing because he worked away. Didnt bother them when he owned but they used it as as excuse to cancel it on me when I bought it. He had only done about 2000ks between the servicings which I thought would of made up for the extra month but not in this case. Regardless its gonna cost me dollars now. In hindsight I should of just got him to take the car in if something broke so they didnt cancel it. |
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| Timmeh |
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mitch_anderson wrote: Timmeh wrote: Indicators only work intermittently depending on where the wheel is and the cruise control stopped working, the on off bottons work but the set+ and set- and resume dont work. we had this problem...its the indicator relay...will cost $40ish from ford...or $5 at the local wreckers! Yeah it was the relay and the little clip inside the steering column. Any idea how to get the relay out. Do you just pull really hard? |
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| Timmeh |
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tickford_6 wrote: you might find that your cruise control problem is directly realated to your clutch pedal problem.
there is a switch on your clutch pedal that turns you cruise to cost if you push the clutch down. if your pedal is not hitting the switch properly your cruise will not work. The pedal is hitting the switch fine and the switch works. Might be the brake one because Ford changed that and it swivels around a very small bit. I'm not sure if its supposed to or if its supposed to be firm. |
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| Mitch_ |
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Posts: 6168 Joined: 5th Nov 2004 |
Timmeh wrote: mitch_anderson wrote: Timmeh wrote: Indicators only work intermittently depending on where the wheel is and the cruise control stopped working, the on off bottons work but the set+ and set- and resume dont work. we had this problem...its the indicator relay...will cost $40ish from ford...or $5 at the local wreckers! Yeah it was the relay and the little clip inside the steering column. Any idea how to get the relay out. Do you just pull really hard? just pull it really hard....
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| XRFan101 |
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Yeah i know how ya feel dude, my XR6 has been having a few problems lately
 Leaking thermostat seal, leaking/shagged rear main, LPG system is still up to s**t, other than that the cars being going perfect.
The problem is thou none of this is covered by warrantee!!!!!! 
WTF did i pay $1800 for
Oh well its only the rear main thats gonna put a dent in my pocket. Ne way so yeah bloody Xr6's 
Quote: To start with I got an idling problem which at least once has stalled the engine. It fluctuates and has a flat spot at low rpms. Anywhere from 400 to 1200rpm idle.
Could be a few problems there, either fuel blockages, such as the fuel pump not getting enough fuel to the car, faulty spark plugs/leads, Vacuum leaks, bad compression, the idle speed may need to be set higher and or you have a bad mixture. I would suggest check all the above options, if its none of those then it may be more serious...
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| Timmeh |
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XRFan101 wrote: Quote: To start with I got an idling problem which at least once has stalled the engine. It fluctuates and has a flat spot at low rpms. Anywhere from 400 to 1200rpm idle. Could be a few problems there, either fuel blockages, such as the fuel pump not getting enough fuel to the car, faulty spark plugs/leads, Vacuum leaks, bad compression, the idle speed may need to be set higher and or you have a bad mixture. I would suggest check all the above options, if its none of those then it may be more serious... I've changed the leads and the spark plugs already. I've got a bottle of nulon injector cleaner (500ml) which I'll put all in one tank and see what happens. Thanks for the reply. |
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| Kit |
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Timmeh wrote: To start with I got an idling problem which at least once has stalled the engine. It fluctuates and has a flat spot at low rpms. Anywhere from 400 to 1200rpm idle.
If the idle was good a couple of weeks ago, and nobody has messed with the idle screw setting. then it souldn't be that. I had my engine stalling on startup last week and I had no leaks or anything, everything plugged in. The revs would drop, and it would cough when accelerating from cold. I popped the bonnet, removed the entire ICS, sprayed throttle body cleaner into it and emptied it out. Moved the big black Map plug (I think it is, on fire wall near vaccume hoses on passenger side), moved it up and down to get a good connection. ICS was clean anyway, but all this did the trick. No more cold start issues. Lucky this time I guess. Try that as an experiment. Also spray some Nulon Throttle Body Cleaner around vaccume hoses and vaccume manifold area with engine going, spray around air intake connections and at throttle body. The spray is a good investment, the engine will rev up when there is a vaccume leak. All this I'm sure you've either done or heard a hundred times before, but it can still be just that, it tends to creep up and surprise you when you don't expect it. 
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| e-falcon |
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The Nulon won't really work, fuel additives rarely do much for your injecters! I used to use them. When my car had problems I paid my old mechanic $250 for a complete fuel system clean, including on car injector cleaning. It still ran like s**t so I found a new mechanic who pulled the injectors off & called a mobile injector cleaner in to do them. this guy said they were some of the dirtyest injectors he'd seen. I was lectured for a good 15 minutes about on car injector cleaners when I picked the car up, & the results spoke for themselves.
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| smoke_ |
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Kit wrote: Timmeh wrote: Also spray some Nulon Throttle Body Cleaner around vaccume hoses and vaccume manifold area with engine going, spray around air intake connections and at throttle body. The spray is a good investment, the engine will rev up when there is a vaccume leak. All this I'm sure you've either done or heard a hundred times before, but it can still be just that, it tends to creep up and surprise you when you don't expect it. So if there's a vacuum leak when you spray around the hoses, the idle goes up? might give this a go when i have some time.
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| voxace |
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About the idleing problem just check if unplugging the power steering pressure sensor fixes it. If it does then it needs replacing.
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