|
| fiend |
|
|||
|
If
Last edited by fiend on Mon Feb 20, 2012 4:41 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fiend |
|
|||
|
If changing wheel bearings you really should smash the hell out of the old bearing cups and replace with the new ones in the packet --- They will be pressed into the rotor.
If getting new rotors you should check that the rotors have bearing cups in them before installation (!) Any ball joint issue is usually not a "grinding noise". More of a clunk or "give" when doing something such leaving a drive. Or maybe shaky steering when driving straight..... phongus wrote: Esteven8 wrote: phongus wrote: If you did it yourself...did you rotate the disc/hub while tightening the nut to 30Nm and did you undo the nut half a turn and tightened the nut up again but only finger tight or something stupidly small amounts of torque (4Nm or something)? 'Tighten the nut to 30Nm undo 1/2 turn then torque to 15Nm while rotating the hub.'
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| ef2nv |
|
||
|
fiend wrote: Yes. Wheel bearings are in between the disk rotor and the stud thingy... There's a split pin through a nut... You should be able to see it.... Take the split pin out and take the locking washer thingy off... There will be a large nut. Grab a big spanner or something and tighten this until kind of hard. Wiggle rotor again. Still wiggly? Ball joints commonly go at the bit between the straight bit of metal from steering to the bit that turns the front wheel. If disk brake and wheel wobble vertically then most likely not the "tie rod end" (ball joint mentioned).... Thank you i i am confused because 1 i hav changed the ball joints already bran new and also changed my wheel bearins also brand new not even a year ago and from the information im getting im havin second guesses about these ball joints n wheeel bearings All i kno is that the rotor has alil wriggle to it so it then would mean wheel bearings? But why and how the rotor is wriggling i dont kno? |
||
| Top | |
||
| tearlejc |
|
||
|
fiend wrote: Yes. Wheel bearings are in between the disk rotor and the stud thingy... There's a split pin through a nut... You should be able to see it.... Take the split pin out and take the locking washer thingy off... There will be a large nut. Grab a big spanner or something and tighten this until kind of hard. Wiggle rotor again. Still wiggly? Ball joints commonly go at the bit between the straight bit of metal from steering to the bit that turns the front wheel. If disk brake and wheel wobble vertically then most likely not the "tie rod end" (ball joint mentioned).... yes, kind of right....replace tighten this until kind of hard with the 4 nm torque settings mentioned before and you should be OK - but I think those bearings will be cactii by now...(cactii is plural of cactus - which I bet both sides are - hence cactii  ) so, replace with new bearings and, as has been suggested, you need to replace the outer bearing races which are pressed in to the rotor - if you just replace the inner bearing guts it won't be long before the replacements are also cactii...
_________________ 351 4V XB Coupe running LPG |
||
| Top | |
||
| Pakrat |
|
||
|
Thank you i i am confused because 1 i hav changed the ball joints already bran new and also changed my wheel bearins also brand new not even a year ago and from the information im getting im havin second guesses about these ball joints n wheeel bearings
All i kno is that the rotor has alil wriggle to it so it then would mean wheel bearings? But why and how the rotor is wriggling i dont kno?[/quote] Um, it's wiggling Cos the wheel bearing is loose..... When you first install wheel bearings youre ment to do them up quite tight to preload the bearings and then back it off a little, you'll find running new bearings you will have o re adjust them after they settle in and a year is plenty long enough to have to re adjust them if you havnt done it quite right( not having a go but you probably didn't get it right from lack of experience.) If you have play in the wheel adjust the wheel bearing and get back to us rather then running in circles and guessing. |
||
| Top | |
||
| tearlejc |
|
||
|
Pakrat wrote: Thank you i i am confused because 1 i hav changed the ball joints already bran new and also changed my wheel bearins also brand new not even a year ago and from the information im getting im havin second guesses about these ball joints n wheeel bearings All i kno is that the rotor has alil wriggle to it so it then would mean wheel bearings? But why and how the rotor is wriggling i dont kno? Um, it's wiggling Cos the wheel bearing is loose..... When you first install wheel bearings youre ment to do them up quite tight to preload the bearings and then back it off a little, you'll find running new bearings you will have o re adjust them after they settle in and a year is plenty long enough to have to re adjust them if you havnt done it quite right( not having a go but you probably didn't get it right from lack of experience.) If you have play in the wheel adjust the wheel bearing and get back to us rather then running in circles and guessing.[/quote] Agreed with Pakrat, and I'd go one further - wheel bearings and brakes are not things to mess with. If you are not 100% sure of your abilities (no criticism, just being realistic) take it to a mechanic and get them to adjust them for you - if you can, hang around while they do it and you'll pick up techniques to do it safely yourself. I once replaced a wheel bearing (first one I ever did, no idea what I was really doing) and it seized at 60 kp/h and I did a 360 spin in rush hour traffic - no damage other than needing clean undies!!
_________________ 351 4V XB Coupe running LPG |
||
| Top | |
||
| Pakrat |
|
||
|
The first time I replaced my rotors I used my old bearings, no grease, the old cups, no hub seals, no split pin and did the nut up as tight as I could, nearly shot me and my fiencee off the road at 100kph (lucky I have some sort Of driving skills), I went to the mechanic and it cost me $500 cos the bearings welded to the stub axels, rotors wore through the pads and a caliper.
Between that and both my engine mounts complete snapping off and smashing the ac compressor and costing me another five hunge is why Ive decided to become a mechanic. |
||
| Top | |
||
| fiend |
|
|||
|
Oh - by the way --- I only suggested tightening the whole lot to see if stopped the play in the wheel. I did not intend for this advice to fix the problem long term.
The bearings will, most likely, be complete trash (cacti). |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| tearlejc |
|
||
|
fiend wrote: Oh - by the way --- I only suggested tightening the whole lot to see if stopped the play in the wheel. I did not intend for this advice to fix the problem long term. The bearings will, most likely, be complete trash (cacti). yeh, no I figured thats what you meant, I wasn't having a go.. just didn't want the OP to get the wrong idea..
_________________ 351 4V XB Coupe running LPG |
||
| Top | |
||
| phongus |
|
|||
|
So in summary...buy 2 new bearing kits (comes with inner/outer races, 2 bearings and the seal), pull rotors out and throw all of the old bearing stuff out (inner/outer races, bearings and seal), put all the new stuff in (pack the bearings well) and put it all back together.
Should fix the problem. If it doesn't, I think your stub axle might be slightly bent causing bearings to fail prematurely...or they can fail prematurely.
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| tearlejc |
|
||
|
phongus wrote: So in summary...buy 2 new bearing kits (comes with inner/outer races, 2 bearings and the seal), pull rotors out and throw all of the old bearing stuff out (inner/outer races, bearings and seal), put all the new stuff in (pack the bearings well) and put it all back together. Should fix the problem. If it doesn't, I think your stub axle might be slightly bent causing bearings to fail prematurely...or they can fail prematurely. I'd add to Phongus' reply - make sure you buy good quality bearings too!!
_________________ 351 4V XB Coupe running LPG |
||
| Top | |
||
| fiend |
|
|||
|
+1 on stub axle replacement. Did mine a while back (due to upper ball joint movement if I remember correctly) and my "ABS warning" light has not come on again since... And also expect bearings to last longer than six months....
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Pakrat |
|
||
|
fiend wrote: +1 on stub axle replacement. Did mine a while back (due to upper ball joint movement if I remember correctly) and my "ABS warning" light has not come on again since... And also expect bearings to last longer than six months.... You can replace the ball joints. But the stub axles do become worn over time as mentioned |
||
| Top | |
||
| ef2nv |
|
||
|
fiend wrote: Yes. Wheel bearings are in between the disk rotor and the stud thingy... There's a split pin through a nut... You should be able to see it.... Take the split pin out and take the locking washer thingy off... There will be a large nut. Grab a big spanner or something and tighten this until kind of hard. Wiggle rotor again. Still wiggly? Ball joints commonly go at the bit between the straight bit of metal from steering to the bit that turns the front wheel. If disk brake and wheel wobble vertically then most likely not the "tie rod end" (ball joint mentioned).... Thank u everyone for ur help it was the wheel bearings again thanks you |
||
| Top | |
||
| Pakrat |
|
||
|
Good to hear mate.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Majestic-12 [Bot] and 49 guests |
