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Gutless after BBM conversion 

 

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Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 10:01 pm 
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Ride: 1989 300ZX Twin turbo Z32

Location: Bardon, Brisbane
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im using my standard fuel pump still. i've considered getting a higher volume pump but i really dont think thats what the problem is.

 

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Posted: Tue May 15, 2007 10:23 pm 
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i actually had a problem with cold starts with my eb, a faulty temp sensor was the cause, the ecu thought the engine was warm, so injecting too much fuel into the engine...new sensor fixed the problem

 

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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 8:52 am 
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i tried two ecus and same surge and splutter both times ,,and tried two isc an tps and map sensors

 

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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 9:28 am 
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Ride: 1989 300ZX Twin turbo Z32

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blacksabbath189 wrote:
i actually had a problem with cold starts with my eb, a faulty temp sensor was the cause, the ecu thought the engine was warm, so injecting too much fuel into the engine...new sensor fixed the problem


hey mate. where did you get the new temp sensor from? I know you can probly get them from fraud but can you get them from supercheap etc? how much was it?

 

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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 10:32 am 
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these slight surging problems sound like a problem i had a while back with my stockie EB with log manifold, driving at cruise it felt like the engine would drop 100 rpm then back again, ended up i changed the fuel pump and that fixed the problem.
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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 9:58 pm 
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OK here goes.

The BBM switch has to be off and will be on short runner otherwise zip tied shut you will be on long runner great for down low but you will hit a pretend brick wal at 3,800rpm and get no more from your car.

The knock sensor did you put one in and hook it up, if not then thats all of your troubles or alot of them for a start.

I dod not have a knock sensor to start with when I put my el ecu in, and the idle in drive was surging, added the knock all settled and reset my timing.

 

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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 10:11 pm 
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a knock sensor only retards the timing if it detects a ping or knock. if your car was pinging at idle then your timing must have been way out.

 

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Posted: Wed May 16, 2007 10:18 pm 
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the ECU appears to check for a knock sensor and none being present it then runs a safe map and a retard timing to protect itself. 2 cars I know of had the exact same issue.

Ford build on the safe side not the dangerous side remember.

 

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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 11:33 am 
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Ride: ford falcon au3 xr8

Location: a shit suburb in sydney
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ive got a knock sensor fitted and i still have a few issues with light surging.

hey bluecube.
i tried disconecting the tps and the car doesnt idle or really wants to run at all.
anyway ive replaced almost everything i can think of..
im thinking of changing fuel pump but i doubt thats the problem as the car pulls good all the way to 5500rpm..
the car is drivable its just like a fridget school boy on light acceleration. :lol: :lol:
so im still looking for answers?
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 3:29 pm 
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Hey guys with the knock sensor if it isn't fitted the timing will stay at zero advance but with the knock sensor fitted it will advance the timing until it detects a knock or ping then it will retard the timing a touch. This makes the car feel gutless through the midrange to the top end. hope this helps guys.
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Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 5:46 pm 
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Another possible reason for the light surging might be that the power steering switch pin appears to change from EEC-IV to EEC-V if you check the pin outs.

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 05, 2007 8:27 pm 
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Hey Guys,

I have just fitted EL XR6 engine to my Ford Maverick and i am having some issues. Seems that the BBM is not switching properly. As my heater contols are moved by cable and not by vacuum motors, should i just connect the large and thin hoses together, because that's how i have it and it seems to move when revving the engine, but i'm not sure if it is opening or closing completely when it is s'posed to.

To end all confusion, when engine is running, actuator should be in the up position??(max Vacuum). I have replaced all the ignition parts as many of you also have in an attempt to find out why the engine wont go in the mid range and top end. Seems to go to about 3000-4000, but not pulling like i know it should. Even with WOT, it seems to plod along, not choking, just not revving.

If i get the diagnostic plug from a wreck and wire that up, will the service guys at a ford place be able to connect it up and see what faults are showing.

The engine was running fine AFAIK, before it came out of the wreck. I could have a fiddle with the timing and see if that makes a diff. Does anyone use PULP??, should i be doing the same?

My fuel pump is an inline Bosch 944 or something like that. One thing that i did notice, and that is when idling, the engine would stop, and then run again. Happens very quickly, but you can definately notice it, like flicking the ignition off for a split second.

I am sure it is something simple, well i hope it is, this whole ordeal has s**t me to tears so far. Once everything is all sorted i am sure it will have been worthwhile.
Any help or pointers would be appreciated

Cheers

Daz

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 10:14 am 
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Ride: ford falcon au3 xr8

Location: a shit suburb in sydney
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hi
are you using a el ecu???
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Posted: Thu Sep 06, 2007 7:51 pm 
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Yes i am using El XR6 ecu.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 08, 2007 10:34 am 
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Ride: ford falcon au3 xr8

Location: a shit suburb in sydney
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hi
you can run the vacuum for the bbm from the manifold vac to the bbm solinoid and from the solinoid straight to the bbm diaphram.
the only thing you need is the blue/black vac check valve. to stop the diaphram from loosing vacuum when you use full throttle under 3800 rpm..
if you dont use the check valve your bbm will switch over to early.
because the diaphram always has vac when the engine is running if you floor it under 3800 rpm the manifold will loose vacuum to the diaphram before the ecu releases the vacuum solinoid..
the purpose of the check valve is to hold the vacuum in the solinoid untill the ecu triggers it..

here are a few pics of how i have my bbm vacc set up on my ea..

 

 

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