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Heater Bypass Pipe 

 

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 Post subject: Heater Bypass Pipe
Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:09 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Ride: EF Fairmont

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

So the other day I had the car running and was looking around under the hood, when I noticed a tick, tick, tick, tish noise. I immediately assumed that this was water dripping onto the exhaust, and upon inspection, turns out I was right. 8-)

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So I got in the batmobile (Mum's Kia Carnival) and fired off down to the wreckers. Picked up this bad boy for $20.

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So now comes the hard part, installing it. Pulling the sucker out at the wreckers was the easy part.. the catalytic converter had already been taken off. Removing mine is a completely different story.

So this is where you come in..

1, Any advice on removing the headers from the catalytic convertor? I've tried a heap of WD-40, bashing the spanner with a hammer, yelling. No luck.

2, When I finally get the cat off and it comes time to install the pipe, what's the best way to seal it into the back of the water pump? I had bought this spacer (BA18N318S - $11) and o-ring (AU-8K540-A - $2-3) from Ford that I read fixes a common leak, but it looks like this new one has one installed already. If so what should I do about it?

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Cheers guys,
Callum
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 Post subject: Re: Heater Bypass Pipe
Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:20 pm 
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Ride: ford falcon au3 xr8

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I would smear a bit of rtv silicon around the o rings when assembling it..
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 Post subject: Re: Heater Bypass Pipe
Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:20 pm 
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Try that spacer in the back of the water pump... It wouldn't fit in my pump when I put the BBM on the ED block... If it does fit then you cut the old O ring off... Put that new O ring where the old one was then bash that spacer down into the pipe until it lip section touches hard against the end of the pipe... Some gasket sealer (we use Nissan Threebond) on it while it's being inserted wouldn't hurt...

On AU they made the hole too large in the back of the water pump... The pipe could shift one way and then would leak around the O ring... The collar on that spacer is slightly larger then the end of the pipe and holds the pipe more in the middle in the back of the pump to prevent it unloading one side of the O ring... It was recall or an after thought or something...

The Cat bolts... Unless you can get a rattle gun down in there somehow then I'm out of ideas... Soak it no end for a night or two in WD40... Maybe try heating it a bit for expansion (without setting the WD40 on fire)... Otherwise you're just gonna need to keep at it... Pacemaker extractors are the best thing ever... 2 stainless bolts down under the car... Very easy to remove...

Cheers,
Tim

 

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93 Red ED 5spd Manual Build Thread

Performance: Complete AUII VCT Wiring & Power Train, Pacey Headers, 2.5" Exhaust, Exedy Clutch, DBA Rotors
Visuals: FG XR Wheel, XR Front, 17's, BA 5 Spd Shifter, BA Ghia Window Switches, NL Cluster
Tunes: 8" Pioneer Sub, JBL Speakers, Clarion Double DIN Headunit

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 Post subject: Re: Heater Bypass Pipe
Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:46 pm 
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Hi Callum

Have you tried swearing at them and calling them names?

Have you got your toung in the right position? (should be on the left side and pointing down slightly)

Go down to your local Supercheap, Bunnings, wherever, and buy yourself a 'map' gas torch.
I call mine the hot spanner. Well worth the coin.
15-20sec of flame and they should come undone easy.

As for the o-ring, as long as the water pump is good, just replace the old one with your new one. Don't worry about the spacer bit.

Just remember to lube the hole before sticking your pipe into it to ensure that you don't damage the rubber.

There's nothing worse than finishing the job only to find you have a leaking rubber :shock:

 

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Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence.

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 Post subject: Re: Heater Bypass Pipe
Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 11:23 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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TROYMAN wrote:
I would smear a bit of rtv silicon around the o rings when assembling it..


TimmyA wrote:
Some gasket sealer (we use Nissan Threebond)


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Permatex High-Temp RTV Silicone vs. PBR Rubber Grease?

TimmyA wrote:
cut the old O ring off... Put that new O ring where the old one was then bash that spacer down into the pipe until it lip section touches hard against the end of the pipe...


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Like so?

roughredXR6 wrote:
Have you tried swearing at them and calling them names?

Have you got your toung in the right position? (should be on the left side and pointing down slightly)


Sure have!

roughredXR6 wrote:
Go down to your local Supercheap, Bunnings, wherever, and buy yourself a 'map' gas torch.
I call mine the hot spanner. Well worth the coin.
15-20sec of flame and they should come undone easy.


Sounds like a great idea

roughredXR6 wrote:
As for the o-ring, as long as the water pump is good, just replace the old one with your new one. Don't worry about the spacer bit.


Not liking the way Ford designed this, would've though some sort of fitting like this would be more suited

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roughredXR6 wrote:
Just remember to lube the hole before sticking your pipe into it to ensure that you don't damage the rubber.

There's nothing worse than finishing the job only to find you have a leaking rubber :shock:


:lol: That was hard to interpret with a dirty mind..
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 Post subject: Re: Heater Bypass Pipe
Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 11:40 pm 
Stock as a Rock
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Location: Port Macquarie
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Ford did a lot of dumb things on the e-series.

Top starter bolt, coil location, heater hoses under the inlet manifold, :x just to name a few.

 

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Ported ED XR6 head shaved too much, AU gasket, custom Crow Cam, Pacemaker 4480's, 5-speed conversion, billet aluminium flywheel, GT clutch, T.I. Performance J3 chip, custom water/methanol injection, modified BA throttle body. Paint&Panel by Barbed Wire Fence.

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 Post subject: Re: Heater Bypass Pipe
Posted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 7:34 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Age: 21

Posts: 39

Joined: 11th Nov 2013

Ride: EF Fairmont

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

Say 'ello to my little friend

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Worked a treat, cheaped out and took the $40 Propane option over the $80 Map one. Don't have too much money earning $14/h at Woolies lol.

Propane - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... pid=340617
Map - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... 0613#Cross

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The metal was so brittle, with a little stab with a screw driver, this was the result

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This is the new heater bypass pipe fitted, ended up using the spacer and new o-ring, the end of the new pipe was a bit worn, the spacer fitted in the back of the water pump.

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Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it.
Callum
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