So the other day I had the car running and was looking around under the hood, when I noticed a tick, tick, tick, tish noise. I immediately assumed that this was water dripping onto the exhaust, and upon inspection, turns out I was right.








So I got in the batmobile (Mum's Kia Carnival) and fired off down to the wreckers. Picked up this bad boy for $20.



So now comes the hard part, installing it. Pulling the sucker out at the wreckers was the easy part.. the catalytic converter had already been taken off. Removing mine is a completely different story.

So this is where you come in..

1, Any advice on removing the headers from the catalytic convertor? I've tried a heap of WD-40, bashing the spanner with a hammer, yelling. No luck.

2, When I finally get the cat off and it comes time to install the pipe, what's the best way to seal it into the back of the water pump? I had bought this spacer (BA18N318S - $11) and o-ring (AU-8K540-A - $2-3) from Ford that I read fixes a common leak, but it looks like this new one has one installed already. If so what should I do about it?



Cheers guys,
Callum

I would smear a bit of rtv silicon around the o rings when assembling it..

Try that spacer in the back of the water pump... It wouldn't fit in my pump when I put the BBM on the ED block... If it does fit then you cut the old O ring off... Put that new O ring where the old one was then bash that spacer down into the pipe until it lip section touches hard against the end of the pipe... Some gasket sealer (we use Nissan Threebond) on it while it's being inserted wouldn't hurt...

On AU they made the hole too large in the back of the water pump... The pipe could shift one way and then would leak around the O ring... The collar on that spacer is slightly larger then the end of the pipe and holds the pipe more in the middle in the back of the pump to prevent it unloading one side of the O ring... It was recall or an after thought or something...

The Cat bolts... Unless you can get a rattle gun down in there somehow then I'm out of ideas... Soak it no end for a night or two in WD40... Maybe try heating it a bit for expansion (without setting the WD40 on fire)... Otherwise you're just gonna need to keep at it... Pacemaker extractors are the best thing ever... 2 stainless bolts down under the car... Very easy to remove...

Cheers,
Tim

Hi Callum

Have you tried swearing at them and calling them names?

Have you got your toung in the right position? (should be on the left side and pointing down slightly)

Go down to your local Supercheap, Bunnings, wherever, and buy yourself a 'map' gas torch.
I call mine the hot spanner. Well worth the coin.
15-20sec of flame and they should come undone easy.

As for the o-ring, as long as the water pump is good, just replace the old one with your new one. Don't worry about the spacer bit.

Just remember to lube the hole before sticking your pipe into it to ensure that you don't damage the rubber.

There's nothing worse than finishing the job only to find you have a leaking rubber

Permatex High-Temp RTV Silicone vs. PBR Rubber Grease?





Like so?



Sure have!



Sounds like a great idea



Not liking the way Ford designed this, would've though some sort of fitting like this would be more suited





That was hard to interpret with a dirty mind..

Ford did a lot of dumb things on the e-series.

Top starter bolt, coil location, heater hoses under the inlet manifold, just to name a few.

Say 'ello to my little friend



Worked a treat, cheaped out and took the $40 Propane option over the $80 Map one. Don't have too much money earning $14/h at Woolies lol.

Propane - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... pid=340617
Map - http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/online ... 0613#Cross







The metal was so brittle, with a little stab with a screw driver, this was the result



This is the new heater bypass pipe fitted, ended up using the spacer and new o-ring, the end of the new pipe was a bit worn, the spacer fitted in the back of the water pump.






Thanks for the help guys, appreciate it.
Callum