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HELP!!! Changing water pump O ring seal in au2?? 

 

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 Post subject: HELP!!! Changing water pump O ring seal in au2??
Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2005 4:32 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Location: Redbank Plains
QLD, Australia

Just want some one to tell me if this is an easy job to do or is it better to pay someone to do it. Maybe one of you ipswich guys can give me a hand or something. what do i need to do the job??? or is there any tips you can tell me???

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2005 5:51 pm 
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I downloaded this document from a website that I can nolonger find the address for so apologies to the author.
This document will explain how to replace the water pump O-ring on Ford Falcon I6 Vehicles EA-BA inclusive.
Ford changed the design of both the heater pipe and the water pump in June 2004 so vehicles built after this date are not covered in this document. Vehicles with the updated water pump can be identified by the letters "AA" cast in the back of the pump near where the bottom radiator hose joins on. BA Falcons with the old water pump and pipe "BA" is cast into the same place.
Parts Required:
1x AU-8K540-A (O-ring)
1x BA18N318S (Spacer)
Tools Required:
10mm Socket and suitable ratchet
13mm Socket and suitable ratchet
19mm Combination Spanner (for bell housing bolt securing rear of heater pump, Except BA vehicles)
Hammer and suitable punch (for tapping the spacer into the pipe)
Replacing the O-ring, and fitting the spacer.
1. Confirm that the O-ring at the rear of the water pump (where the heater pipe joins into it) is leaking
2. Remove the cooling system cap and refit it (this lets any pressure out)
3. Remove the exhaust heat shield
4. Undo the bolts holding the heater pipe to the engine block. (rear - near/on the bell housing.)
5. Carefully pull the pipe rearward out of the water pump.
6. Inspect the recess in the back of the water pump and clean any corrosion or grime if required.
7. Replace ‘O’ ring (Be sure to use a small amount of Rubber Grease to lubricate the new O-ring)
8. Tap the spacer into the front of the heater pipe until square and flush with the end of the pipe.
(This may require removal of the engine cooling fans to get enough movement with a hammer and punch.
Sometimes the spacers go in without any need for tapping, other times its a real pain.)
9. Carefully refit the heater pipe into the water pump.
10. Fit and tighten both front and rear heater pipe bolts. (It MAY be necessary to make the holes on the
pipe slightly larger using a die grinder etc, however of the 30+ cars I've replaced this O-ring on, only one
has required this. If you feel this is required make 100% sure the spacer is fitted into the pipe correctly.)
11. Refit any other items removed to gain access.
12. Refit the exhaust manifold heat shield.
13. Refill the cooling system, and pressure test the system if you have a pressure tester available.
If you do not have a pressure tester. Run the engine until at operating temperature, confirm the vehicle is
still full of coolant and observe for any leaks. If you use this method keep a close eye on coolant level for the next
few days.
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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2005 9:43 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Ride: au2

Location: Redbank Plains
QLD, Australia

Thanks heaps. Any one wanna give me a hand in case i stuff it up. :oops: :oops:

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2005 9:48 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: EF Gli Ghia, XP Fairmont

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

that's a good doco fencepost !!!

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 25, 2005 10:07 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Ride: Au Fairmont Wagon, BA Tradesman

Location: Ipswich
QLD, Australia

I fyou need help Ill offer. I've PM'd you

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 9:02 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Age: 35

Posts: 362

Joined: 9th Nov 2004

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Ride: au2

Location: Redbank Plains
QLD, Australia

thanks. But i didn't recieve your PM though???

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2005 11:54 pm 
Technical Contributor
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Ride: LS3 VF

Location: Bunbury
WA, Australia

fencepost wrote:
I downloaded this document from a website that I can nolonger find the address for so apologies to the author.
This document will explain how to replace the water pump O-ring on Ford Falcon I6 Vehicles EA-BA inclusive.
Ford changed the design of both the heater pipe and the water pump in June 2004 so vehicles built after this date are not covered in this document. Vehicles with the updated water pump can be identified by the letters "AA" cast in the back of the pump near where the bottom radiator hose joins on. BA Falcons with the old water pump and pipe "BA" is cast into the same place.
Parts Required:
1x AU-8K540-A (O-ring)
1x BA18N318S (Spacer)
Tools Required:
10mm Socket and suitable ratchet
13mm Socket and suitable ratchet
19mm Combination Spanner (for bell housing bolt securing rear of heater pump, Except BA vehicles)
Hammer and suitable punch (for tapping the spacer into the pipe)
Replacing the O-ring, and fitting the spacer.
1. Confirm that the O-ring at the rear of the water pump (where the heater pipe joins into it) is leaking
2. Remove the cooling system cap and refit it (this lets any pressure out)
3. Remove the exhaust heat shield
4. Undo the bolts holding the heater pipe to the engine block. (rear - near/on the bell housing.)
5. Carefully pull the pipe rearward out of the water pump.
6. Inspect the recess in the back of the water pump and clean any corrosion or grime if required.
7. Replace ‘O’ ring (Be sure to use a small amount of Rubber Grease to lubricate the new O-ring)
8. Tap the spacer into the front of the heater pipe until square and flush with the end of the pipe.
(This may require removal of the engine cooling fans to get enough movement with a hammer and punch.
Sometimes the spacers go in without any need for tapping, other times its a real pain.)
9. Carefully refit the heater pipe into the water pump.
10. Fit and tighten both front and rear heater pipe bolts. (It MAY be necessary to make the holes on the
pipe slightly larger using a die grinder etc, however of the 30+ cars I've replaced this O-ring on, only one
has required this. If you feel this is required make 100% sure the spacer is fitted into the pipe correctly.)
11. Refit any other items removed to gain access.
12. Refit the exhaust manifold heat shield.
13. Refill the cooling system, and pressure test the system if you have a pressure tester available.
If you do not have a pressure tester. Run the engine until at operating temperature, confirm the vehicle is
still full of coolant and observe for any leaks. If you use this method keep a close eye on coolant level for the next
few days.


hey i wrote that... :)
http://www.mypage.tsn.cc/dave/Documents/water_pump.htm

also wrote this one.

http://www.mypage.tsn.cc/dave/Documents/smartlock.htm about cleaning contacts in smartlock remotes. if some1 wants to add them to the doco section feel free
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Posted: Sat Aug 27, 2005 11:11 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Posts: 47

Joined: 25th Jan 2005

Ride: xr8

Location: temora
NSW, Australia

easy job dont be scared

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 8:03 am 
Tyre Shredder
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Age: 42

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Joined: 25th Apr 2005

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Ride: Au Fairmont Wagon, BA Tradesman

Location: Ipswich
QLD, Australia

Still after a hand?

 

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THEY CAN BE USED TO PROVE ANYTHING!

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Posted: Fri Sep 02, 2005 1:40 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Age: 35

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Joined: 9th Nov 2004

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Ride: au2

Location: Redbank Plains
QLD, Australia

I am picking the parts up today. I will give it ago after work tommorrow. If i need help i'll give you a ring. Thanks again for offering to help me.

Cheers
Nathan

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 9:56 am 
Tyre Shredder
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Age: 42

Posts: 333

Joined: 25th Apr 2005

Gallery: 2 images

Ride: Au Fairmont Wagon, BA Tradesman

Location: Ipswich
QLD, Australia

How did you go?

 

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THEY CAN BE USED TO PROVE ANYTHING!

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Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 8:45 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Age: 35

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Joined: 9th Nov 2004

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Ride: au2

Location: Redbank Plains
QLD, Australia

I didn't get a chance to do it yet. I had to fix hte misses's car instead. Had to change all the ball joints in her car. I will be doing it this weekend though for sure.

 

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