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| ranga83 |
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TimmyA wrote: Did they check the head when they machined it? Leaking valve stem seals? Crack Tested? Was the block cleaned back properly? The bores weren't damaged while the head was off? Cheers, Tim back to tims questions. was the head checked? how clean did you get the block? did you run a straight edge across the block?
_________________ ef futura, pacemakers, 2.5inch catback, k&n panel filter and 3.45 lsd. extractors/cat, ticky head, custom cam grind, t5. now onto cosmetics. |
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| ferr007 |
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Not sure if they checked the head when it was machined, it wasnt crack tested, i was thinking about valve stem seals but there is way too much smoke for that i think plus would enough oil go in to fowel the plugs up in about 2km and all six of them.
the bores looked smooth and clean no marks or scores. the block was cleaned perfect it was smooth and as level as i could check it all looked good. problem is if it was the head would it be doing the same thing with two different heads and gasket sets? thanks. |
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| 66 coupe |
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well i think its overfueling, im assuming the plugs are black and powdery?
the other possible cause of this is a broken coolant temperature sensor, if its not the map sensor, or any other issue with the engine wiring harness. If you have a multimeter backprobe the coolant temp sensor and air temp sensor wires and check the voltages Are you 100% sure there is engine vacuum at the hose at the map sensor? does it run any differently if you 1) disconnect vacuum hose from map sensor while its running, 2)disconnect map sensor connector while its running 3) disconnect coolant temp sensor while its running |
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| Mad2 |
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ohhh ... this may seem a err silly question
did you do the head bolts up properly?? ... reason i ask is the EB i bought had problems but it turned out to be the head bolts were not done up to spec. |
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| ferr007 |
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Hi Mad2, yes they were done up to spec with a torque wrench and i have since checked them again.
yes the plugs are definately black and powdery so this would be overfueling, ok well i supose the next step is to check the coolant temp sensor and air temp sensor to see if there is a problem there. Yes if you disconnect the map sensor hose the revs drop then go up. I havent tried the coolant temp sensor yet will let you know. |
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| ferr007 |
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Ok update,
when you disconnect the map sensor wiring the revs go up but still the same. when you disconnect the coolant temp sensor while its running the revs go up and when you rev it, it occasionally backfires through the air cleaner. i also checked the plugs again and they are all black carbon look except cylinder 4 which was clean and wet with fuel. maybe that all helps with diagnostic. |
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| TROYMAN |
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hate to say it but I think your rings are shot!!!!
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| ferr007 |
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Troyman i did a compression check and all the cylinders are almost the same and with good pressure so i am not sure it is the rings.
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| TROYMAN |
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you can still have good compression with bad oil rings, you have 2 sets of rings on each piston, a set of compression rings and a set of oil control rings, sometimes oil rings get clogged or just wear out before compression rings do...
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| ferr007 |
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Ok so would it be possible for all 6 oil rings to get worn on an engine with 230,000kms on it, i have thought about it just didnt think it would be possible, could it?
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| TROYMAN |
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not necessarily , even 1 or 2 bad cyl will cause problems..
im not saying its definitely oil rings as I havnt seen the car, but don't rule it out.. how many of the plugs are fouling?? can you take a vid of how much smoke its blowing? |
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| ferr007 |
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all plugs are fowling except number 4 thats just covered in fuel.
i will see if i can take a video tomorrow. |
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| ferr007 |
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Ok no go on the video i changed the ignition lead on number 4 today and now it just cranks but doesnt start, it tries to but just backfires through the air filter.
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| Mad2 |
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are ya sure the timing is right??
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| ferr007 |
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No, not sure but i havent touched the timing for a long time.
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