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| forsaken |
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well... halfway through my cam install, cant seem to get the springs out ...
ok, i used a valve spring compressor, compress the springs, but i cant get the retainer to separate from the top of the valve stem so I can get the collets out? am I missing something? or just retarded? i have tried holding the top of the stem with long nosed pilers and pushing down on the spring to make them separate but, no joy... pic attached. thx 
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| voxace |
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I sure hope you've got some compressed air or string or something in the cylinders, that's usually enough to keep the valve up.
If your not doing that, your gunna lose the valve! If you are doing that, and still no luck - try giving the retainer a light tap. |
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| forsaken |
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that cylinder is at tdc + i jammed some rope into the cylinder to the valve can only drop 10mm or so, but for some reason even pushing the valve onto the rope/piston and tapping the retainer will not make it let go of the valve stem
 i feel like i am missing something simple here.... argh...
_________________ 1997EL 5spd
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| voxace |
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Jam some more rope in. Do this while the piston is at the bottom, then wind it up until it stops - that way you can a fair bit in.
If the valve can't move at all it should make life easier for you. Also, tap harder lol! |
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| forsaken |
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ahhh that could be it... didnt even think of that lol :S
well its a job for tomorrow now... gotta tram and walk to work was hoping to get it finished today...! will report back tomorrow ;D
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| forsaken |
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ok... i got it in. took agggeessss to swap all the springs but by the end i was doing it like a pro.... Anyway.
shimmed each rocker with 2 washers... it was hard to work out how many were needed because for some reason once I took the HLA's out I could never get them to go back the same amount as they were initially.... hmmmm. anyway. it runs, not too noisily but not as quiet as before either (still some faint ticking), i tried to re-use the rocker cover gasket but looks like its going to leak everywhere. car also has a "whirring" noise atm.. bit worried about what could be causing it. will take a recording of it over the weekend if it doesnt go away... any idea what it could be? I didnt end up putting my variable gear in cos i just CBF at the time and wanted to drive it to work... drove it to work, it didnt really seem to go any harder than before... maybe reved out a bit more easily :O I thought there would be more of a difference, possibly the computer needs more time to learn or something like that? any ideas?
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| voxace |
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Sounds normal, most people get the whirring 'supercharger' noise, and a bit more lifter noise too - myself included.
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| forsaken |
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cool, i'll drive it for a bit and get it on a dyno late next week and see what difference it has made. I changed the belt at the same time and thought it might have been that making the noise... hmm
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| cjh |
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Make sure you installed the cam chain tensioner properly. If not, it will severly over tension the chain and the auxillary shaft will chew into the block, as there is no bearing there.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
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| forsaken |
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I didnt touch the tensioner, just swapped the cams while holding the cam gear up. so i think the tension should be OK... (well, unchanged anyway).
the car is really noisy on startup so I think i will have to pull it down again and check out the shimming again...
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| EggHead |
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If that is the r spec 3 from rpd then you definately need more than 2 of those washer type shims. I've got 5 in my exhaust side and 4 in my intake side and it could probably fit some more in.
I'm wandering if the 0.7 - 1.1 mm lash adjustment is the same as an unmodifyed car? or is the extra lash there to stop some catastrophic failure that could occur 
I have a bit more than 1.1mm lash adjustment at the moment, so I will reshim once the new gearbox goes in, and if its shimmed properly you WILL feel a difference straight away. Good luck, cheers |
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| forsaken |
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yeah its an rspec 3... im using 0.5mm washers to shim, so at the moment it has 1mm... so definetly not enough. it tricked me because it looked like the HLA's were a long way out compared to normal but I think they must compress a bit after some driving.
pulling the car apart again today and checking it out. at the moment its noisy until it warms up (a good 2-3 km's) which isnt the best :O and leaking oil everywhere. should I be putting the washers above or below the original shim? thanks 
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
Before you push the HLa's back in the rocker arm, get a hole punch or whatever and lightly push the bearing inside it to release the pressure, that will close up the HLA and make it easier to fit.
They will be noisy for 20 minutes till they pump back up |
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| forsaken |
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ok, I think that might have been the problem (they were still filled with oil so I didnt put enough washers in)
heres a couple of pics which help explain a bit better - ex#1 shut - there is minimal "play" so I assumed i had it shimmed up properly, but you can see the HLA is further down that it should be (with only 1mm of washers) ex#1 open - hla has compressed by about 1mm or so? if I understand correctly, I need to let the pressure off the HLA so it is in its compressed state with the valve SHUT... and shim accordingly? why is there so damn many bolts on the rocker gear btw
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| forsaken |
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hmmm one other thing, i got a new rocker cover gasket, what type of sealant is best? previously i used permatex #2 but it looks like it could easily clump up and get into the engine screwing things up and it was a complete b**ch to clean off :S argh
or is it ok to use no sealant with a new gasket ?
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