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How do i fix this problem?? 

 

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 Post subject: How do i fix this problem??
Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:55 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Hey guys, ive just about had it with my car..

few weeks ago heater tap blows 2 days after after flushing system..2 weeks later a small hose appeared to blow just above the tap (i believe it is a heater hose) and yes there was a hole in the hose..

After getting a new hose, connecting everything i poured my new anti freeze in (3rd bottle in 1 month ($100)) and was about to start my car when i hear dripping, i take a look under the car and f**k me its still leaking..

it not appearing the metal pipe that connects the hose has a tiny hole (see pic)

Image
Image

and now i have no idea how to fix this???

anyone got any ideas?
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 8:58 pm 
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is that pic inside the cabin or under the BBM?

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:00 pm 
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break out the soldering iron or oxy and silver solder the pipe...or replace ur heater box(pain in the a**)...

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:00 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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its taken laying under the car, facing directly up. U can see the larger hose thats not connected to anything, thats the hose that connects to the heater tap..so its just above the tap.
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:03 pm 
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The only way I can think of fixing it is by welding a bit of metal to it (fat chance) or removing the whole metal piping and replacing with a new one.

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:29 pm 
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do u think i would be able to silver solder it??will it hold the pressure? is there anything else i can use on it? maybe some sort of epoxy glue or the stuff they use to fix radiators when they get holes?
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 Post subject: .
Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:33 pm 
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i used 2 do silver soldering applications to hold pressures of up 2 2500kpa...should hold cooling system pressure

 

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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 9:37 pm 
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i think its almost impossible to get the solder in that space so i think my only option is to look for some kind of glue that will hold the pressure and heat..any ideas?
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 10:19 pm 
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Posted: Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:19 pm 
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You will never know when the epoxy will give and fall off.

If that point is corroded you can bet somewhere along that pipe ther will be more.

Bite the bullet, take the extractors off take the intake manifold off and replace the pipe with a new one.

 

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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:02 am 
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is it the heater box pipe or the pipe that goes around the engine?...

if its the one that goes around the engine $10 at the wreckers

if its the heater box pipe i just threw away my spare heater box u could of had it for free dang
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 12:11 pm 
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that small pipe is a water bypass for when your heater tap is off..
so what about cutting the small pipe off,and smoothing it out if you can.
and slide the heater hose over the hole and just block the other one off with a bolt??

its not perfect but it might get you out of trouble untill or if you ever take your manifolds off and change the pipe..
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 5:46 pm 
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i just bought some of the epoxy stuff..tried abit just on the concrete and its already rock hard in 10 mins. Just waiting 4 hours for it to fully cure on the actual pipe now, hope it works..sometimes i wonder wtf ford was doing putting stuff like this in such s**t locations..
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 6:50 pm 
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For what its worth I have repaired the same piece on a 95 EF but I only used a plumbers soldering iron (120 watts ) and flux after sanding clean the join.
Make sure you clean really well though up past the crack etc so you can get the solder to flow and remember to keep the iron on the job, not the solder.
Keep the iron on the crack at all times once it heats up and apply flux paste to the solder bar so that this flows on the the repair first to prime the area so the solder sticks.

Another handy tool for these jobs is a gas soldering iron or "Little Devil" gas torch, small and will heat the area up very quickly...

Plumbers solder will hold no problem !
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Posted: Tue Oct 07, 2008 6:57 pm 
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putonpaint wrote:
For what its worth I have repaired the same piece on a 95 EF but I only used a plumbers soldering iron (120 watts ) and flux after sanding clean the join.
Make sure you clean really well though up past the crack etc so you can get the solder to flow and remember to keep the iron on the job, not the solder.
Keep the iron on the crack at all times once it heats up and apply flux paste to the solder bar so that this flows on the the repair first to prime the area so the solder sticks.

Another handy tool for these jobs is a gas soldering iron or "Little Devil" gas torch, small and will heat the area up very quickly...

Plumbers solder will hold no problem !


correct correct correct....holding the soldering iron on the crack will make the solder flow to the area...it follow's heat.

 

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