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How to test for a faulty MAP sensor 

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 10:53 am 
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72 bucks, send me your account details, ill pay you 80 bucks, get me one and express post it down! you sure thats for the au2 oxy sensor? if it is, check if its the 4 wire suitable for vct, autobarn here quoted me 120 mates rates!

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 2:02 pm 
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Sorry but this was for a sensor for my EL.

Repco customer price was $120 but they marked it down to $100.
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Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 3:42 pm 
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i thought it was a tad cheap :S

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 9:39 pm 
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It all good fellas.. thanx for the input..
got a guy who i work with use to work with ford for 15years and we checked me car out..
someone before me had stuffed around with the idle
so we set it at the correct rpm and big vibrations through the car.
tested the ISC and map sensor.. all ok
so he said it deffintly b the ecu...
$170 (trade) from bursons for a brand new one.. :D
so that b fixed tommora..

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:19 am 
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wah, where did talk of a rooted ecu come in!

thats the last thing i want it to be!!!!!!!

i think ill try my oxy sensor and pray...

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 12:28 am 
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Yeah sometimes things go wrong inside the ecu.
I've been frantically trying to trace problems to sensors and I'm almost certain my auto ECU is f**k.
Everything seems to work fine and dandy with my manual ECU.

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:17 pm 
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well we did tests on all sensors and they all work fine.
put the new ecu in today and noticed the difference straight away.. acctually idels properly..
still wish it waz like a loose connection or a $60 sensor. but hey
gotta be done. :<

 

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Posted: Thu Apr 07, 2005 10:44 pm 
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slimjim wrote:
well we did tests on all sensors and they all work fine.
put the new ecu in today and noticed the difference straight away.. acctually idels properly..
still wish it waz like a loose connection or a $60 sensor. but hey
gotta be done. :<


Auto ECU's can be had for around $60-80! :)

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 11, 2005 12:41 pm 
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voxace wrote:
OK. here is where it "should" be:

Image


And here is how to test it:

Image

Ignition On: 0.155-0.156KHz
Engine Idling: 0.101-0.103KHz
Engine Revved: 0.90KHz (Approx)
Idling in Drive: 0.105-0.106 KHz
Idling in Drive with A/C on or Steering Load: 0.109-0.111KHz

Of course you are going to need a Digital Multimeter to test this.


Just went out and tested my map sensor, all the values were clsoe to those above expect when I rev the engine I only get about 0.120 - 0.130KHz. I took the car for a drive with my multimeter setup in the cabin recording max freq, drove around for about 10min under different loads including a lot of full throttle. The max freq was 0.156KHz.

Would this most likey indicate a vacuum leak or a faulty map sensor? The car is an ED XR6.
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 6:35 am 
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Yeah I think my ECU is stuffed too. Idle is just alright if it's set to around 770 to 850RPM. But even then as soon as the air-con goes on, the rev's drop 200rpm, and end up sitting on a very rough and vibrating 500 RPM in drive. I am forced to put it in neutral everytime I stop at a red light. Either that or turn the air-con off everytime I have to stop. :evil:
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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 9:40 am 
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but i dont have problems with idle

just chewing the fuel, and extremely hot exhaust... i get my oxy sensor this week :D

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:27 am 
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Extremely hot exhaust can mean the cat is clogged.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:51 am 
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There is one thing everyone is NOT checking Engine Temperature! If the thermostat is faulty or INCORRECT range the ECU thinks the motor is not up to correct running temp and richens up the mixture accordingly This has a BIG effect on range, mine was 20l/100 kms After thermostat 14.7 l/100km Hope this helps as it has mine :P :idea:

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 11:58 am 
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What temperature did you get that fixed it?

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 12, 2005 12:55 pm 
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Almost to guage centre approx 95 deg C

 

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