The Harmonic sensor has same plug so no need to change that one so does that mean there is nothing to change on the front of the motor ? i am trying to keep the steps as one of a time so not only me but others can follow it simply.

Alan

u will see a small hole on the leg of the cam angle sensor....put a pin in there to lock the shaft...now put the sensor in the hole and line it up with the bracket....motor should be at tdc

Thanks heres a picture of where the small hole is for those who are doing the conversion just look at the hole and spin the cog around till you see a hole appear then put a nail in it i will noe go and fit it and line up the marks then take a photo of that as well for all



I am also going to take number one spark plug out and put a screw driver in then put a socket on the Harmonic Balancer bolt and turn it over by hand till the screw driver rises and that should be Top dead centre for cam sensor to line up with bracket and then put the cam sensor in dizzy hole is that right?

it must be tdc on compression stroke on no1 cyl..
the best way to do it is to remove all the spark plugs and put your finger over the plug hole on cyl 1 and rotate the engine,
when you feel the pressure pushing your finger out of the hole its coming up to tdc on compression stroke..

hey mate good luck with your conversion, If you want something to reffer to have a look at my build thread on page 11, I started my conversion and have pics up of most of it, including modding a EF K frame while in the car.

commercial-sponsors-forum-f53/xr-lane-s-nf-vct-fairlane-t5-ghia-t73383-200.html

It also covers your questions on the EF cam angle sensor. It shows what I have done to use the EF alternator on the AU engine.

Seems you cant just use the bracket to hold the cam sensor in because it hits the lug thingy on the sensor so will cut it off and hope i have it in the right way but will post a photo of the cut bracket for those who have the same problem.

came acroos another problem when u put the holding bracket on for the Dizzy cam sensor it doesnt seem to want to fit so with a little drop saw action and filing it down it now fits with some room for adjustment.


I have include the original one and one that i altered next problem is?

heres a picture of the i dont know ill take a stab at it the oil sensor? anyway on the AU its like this one in the first picture and on the Ef it like the one in the second picture any ideas or do i just cut the wires on the EF intake manifold and join them up to the Au plug?

AU Plug

EF Sensor

thats the knock sensor,

you can either use the AU one, and join the wires, or Tap the block and fit the EF type.

With the Synchronizer, the clamping bracket hole is on the opposite side,
as long as its on TDC and in the home position, it doesn't matter what way its facing.

The other few items are the Temp sensor on the rear of the AU head, Aircon brackets, Alternator, power steering bracket (easy fit) and the lower bolts on the Bell housing.

You use the AU one and you cut the notch out to match where the lug is on the cam angle sensor

You dont need to tap into the block, just lock 2 nuts together on the thread sticking out of the block and unscrew it from the block. then your ef sensor will bolt in.

Last edited by XR-Lane on Sun Aug 30, 2009 7:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.

From my Build

Ok, we sorted out the cam angle sensor. We set both engines to top dead centre, and then swapped them over as per the Gregory’s manual. The bracket is on the opposite side but I had to cut a new grove into it, so it will do the same job.
On the EF motor



And on the AU motor



Then we sorted out the alternator bracket. There is a lug of sorts on the block that is used for the AU alternator. This gets into the way of bolting on the EF bracket.



The solution.... Cut the bastard off!! Then clean off with a file.



Now the block has a few holes missing for this bracket, so I needed to make 1 bracket up for the bottom hole.



The other 2 brackets line up fine.




ended up doing this in the end







After that I cleaned the engine bay and started looking at the K frame. I marked it out and cut it (there’s no turning back now).











Material used for the K Frame was 8mm plate if I remember correctly. My engine has been in for 6 months now and have no problem.

Last edited by XR-Lane on Mon Aug 31, 2009 12:24 am, edited 1 time in total.

XR Lane thanks a heap, i was going to cut the wires and join to the Knock sensor but will do what you have suggested tomorrow now, but i thank you for adding the pictures of your build as well what i am trying to do is show other people like me the picture steps along the way doing one thing at a time and not trying to do three things at a time and trying to explain those things simpler to do one at a time.

The only thing that worries me is have i put the Cam sensor in the right way i am old school and use to having a rotor button on top to see where no 1 is but with this thing i dont know if i have put it in the right way?

Also with your Alternator bracket why have you made that did you use your EF Alternator on the AU motor as i have left the Au Alternator on.

And one more question is the AU drive belt bigger than the Ef as the one on the motor was busted from the smash and i have used my EF compressor but cant get my belt to fit so figured i would need the AU belt and maybe its bigger than the EF belt. thanks Alan

Aircon:

The 2 lower Aircon spacers for the bolts just need to be shortend, cant remember by how much but if you put the top bolt in with a uncut spacer, you can measure with a 6 inch rule how much to cut off both spacers.

As for the lower bolts for the bellhousing this is what i did.



I bolted the gearbox up to the engine afterwards only to find none of the bolt holes line up on the sump, I was under the impression that it was only the 2 bottom bolts that don’t.



Anyways here are a few tips on modifying the bell housing and sump to bolt the bottom half of the bell housing on.

This M10 tapped hole in the sump does not line up on the bell housing.


Basically there is enough room to drill a hole in the bell housing. With a centre punch, mark the centre inside the M10 tapped hole on the bell housing mating face. Then drill 8.5 mm hole through the bell housing while being careful not to damage the M10 thread. After this you will need to open the hole bigger with a 10mm drill from the other side, so there will be clearance for the M10 bolt.


As you can see the new hole cuts into the original hole in the bell bousing.

But with a washer its fine.
A few pics of the other side.




Now for the bottom 2 bolts, these are not as easy to modify to fit. But basically there is enough meat in the bell housing to drill and tap a hole with M10 thread so you can use these holes to bolt the bell housing on from the other side.

Drill through this hole into the bell housing deep enough for your M10 bolt with a 8.5mm drill.

Now run a M10 x 1.5 tap through until it hits the end.

You have now cut a new thread in the bell housing mating face you can put your bolt in.

And the same to the other side.


Remember to have the gearbox on and the top bolts (witch do line up) done up, so that all the holes you do drill will be in the right place.
And that’s how to modify a E Series T5 bell housing to an AU motor.
And that’s my effort for today

Cheers

Josh