Fordmods Logo

leaking rear main seal.. 

 

Page 1 of 2 [ 16 posts ] Go to page 1, 2  Next

 
 Post subject: leaking rear main seal..
Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 1:55 pm 
NSW Cruise Moderator
Offline
User avatar

Age: 39

Posts: 7331

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Gallery: 12 images

Ride: TE50

Location: ɹǝpun uʍop
NSW, Australia

advise or directions as to the best way to replace the rear main seal on my ef XR6? got a bit of a slow leak there.. just wanna get it fixxed up.. is it easier and quicker to get a machanic to do it or is it an easy enough job that I can do it my self witha few mates and beers?

PS Brad, bring back the poll option

 

_________________

Image

I have a car.

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 1:57 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 46

Posts: 1040

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: EA Fairmont Ghia

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

OK, $500 for a mechanic to do it,

1 engine crane, engine and gearbox out, replace seal, do gearbox seals while at it, drop the lot back in the car, takes a day (hence $500).

OR

drop the gearbox swear b**ch and moan and get the job done, the top bolts are the biggest pain in the a** ever to get undone (i do not reccomend)

 

_________________

Full working BA Shifter now upgraded to BF Shifter.
BA headlight inserts in my EA headlights.

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 2:06 pm 
NSW Cruise Moderator
Offline
User avatar

Age: 39

Posts: 7331

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Gallery: 12 images

Ride: TE50

Location: ɹǝpun uʍop
NSW, Australia

that was my school of thought as well.. I'll make some calls thanks

 

_________________

Image

I have a car.

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 2:37 pm 
Fordmods Newbie
Offline

Age: 33

Posts: 18

Joined: 27th Dec 2004

Ride: xr6

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

I think i would just get a mechanic to do it, i changed the clutch on my car and i had to drop the k frame to get the top boltsof the gear box undone, then you would have to take the motor out, unless you could take the gear box out with the motor that might be easier.
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 8:29 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 54

Posts: 4102

Joined: 18th Nov 2004

Gallery: 10 images

Ride: PX2 Ranger 4x4 XLT Dual CAB

Location: Carrum Downs
VIC, Australia

dc_todd wrote:
that was my school of thought as well.. I'll make some calls thanks


I got a Auto trans guy to do mine for me, he also did the rear welsh plugs, as I had already had some of the side ones leak. cost me around $300-$350 including the trans service afterwards.

 

_________________

Image
She's meanness put to music and the b**ch is born to run!
Like the sign says, "speed's just a question of money. How fast can you go?"

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 12:03 am 
Oompa Loompa
Offline

Posts: 21

Joined: 6th Feb 2005

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

Rear mains are much easier to do on a hoist because they are up in the air and can fit a tranny jack under there. Just did one the other day at work it doesnt take much more than one hour to take the box out, and 1.5 hours to put it back together with the new seal in. it also depends on what tools u have this time frame decribed was using a rattle gun and a few 1/2 inch extentions.

 

_________________

There is no substitue for cubic inches!

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 3:59 am 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Posts: 3115

Joined: 20th Dec 2004

Ride: Falcon

Location: Adelaide
SA, Australia

Can do it yourself, but it might be easer to get the mechanic to do it unless you have all the tools.

The way I do it is to get the car up HIGH, pull the driveshaft, unbolt the gearbox from the bellhousing, then unbolt the bellhousing from the block, pull the pressure plate, clutch, flywheel, change the seal (probably be a real pain to get out), then put it all back together in the reverse order.

If you do the gearbox and bellhousing seperately youll have more working room and it is much easier to reach the top bellhousing bolts (I cant get the t5 in or out with the bellhousing on anyway.I cant get the t5 in or out with the bellhousing on anyway). It is also really easy to align the clutch as you put the gearbox in. The seal itself will set you back about $10.

 

_________________

Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 4:11 am 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 31

Posts: 2449

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Ride: Falcon EB-s

Location: Manjimup
WA, Australia

Isnt it amazing how cheap a seal can be, et how expensive it is in time effort and money to replace it :( Sort of like the rear welsh plugs.

 

_________________

The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
Image

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 4:41 am 
NSW Cruise Moderator
Offline
User avatar

Age: 39

Posts: 7331

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Gallery: 12 images

Ride: TE50

Location: ɹǝpun uʍop
NSW, Australia

got a quote $400 from my local non ford mechanic.. called ford for a laugh.. $970 and 3 days... the guy couldn't understand why I was laughing so much.. he insisted they used genuine ford parts as it was an XR6..

So does my local mechanic.. they guy know more about em than ford does.. he has been fixing their mistakes for years..

so $400 and 1 day without a car.. not too bad??

I'll be reduced to driving the astra for a day.

I'm a bit disapointed though.. that $400 could have gone on some mods.. ie a head shave..

ahh well pipe dreams.

keep me posted with other sugestions..
anyone in parramatta area recommend anyone?

my mechanic is omega outomotive at guildford..

suggestions...

would is also be an idea to get the fly wheel machined at the same time?

there is a slight knock at idle, of would you just suspect that is the knock back on the flywheel?

 

_________________

Image

I have a car.

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 5:31 am 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Posts: 3115

Joined: 20th Dec 2004

Ride: Falcon

Location: Adelaide
SA, Australia

If you are getting a mechanic to do it then probably best to get him to give everything the once over. Some can be trusted to tell you what needs attention, and what is normal.

I machine my flywheel each time I change the clutch. Depending on how old the clutch is it might be worth changine that as well. Better to do it now when your already paying $400 odd labour pulling the gearbox and waste a bit of clutch than having to pay another $400 is labout when it wears out.

 

_________________

Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:29 am 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 39

Posts: 1434

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Gallery: 15 images

Ride: ALTED XR6 - ALTED EA - EF TAXI

Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
QLD, Australia

Its not that hard at all to replace the rear main seal while the motor is STILL bolted into the car

Unplug battery
1. Drain Motor oil.
2, have car on 4 stands
3, unbolt tailshalf
4, remove gearbox selector
5, remove gearbox crossmemeber
6, remove the gearbox box from the bellhousing, (4 15MM bolts)
7, remove gearbox from underneath car
8, Remove starter motor
9, Undo the bellhousing bolts, 6 19mm's and 2 13mm's to get to the top ones you need a 19mm socket and uni-joints,
10, remove clutch
11, remove flywheel
12, use a flat head screw driver to pry out the old main seal
13, install new rear main with a slight coat of out around it behind it
14, Put flywheel back on
15, put clutch back one
16 put bellhousing back on
and then the reverse of the other steps above.

I always replace rear mains when im doing conversions, there is no need to use a hoist or take the motor out or drop the k-frame .
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 10:23 am 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 46

Posts: 1040

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: EA Fairmont Ghia

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

dc_todd - you have a manual so what is said above is right, I am just so used to working on auto's, and there are more of them, I forget about manual's :)

 

_________________

Full working BA Shifter now upgraded to BF Shifter.
BA headlight inserts in my EA headlights.

Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 2:35 pm 
Fordmods Junkie
Offline
User avatar

Age: 38

Posts: 5051

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Ride: Kia Rio - 1.4L Auto

Power: 238 rwkw

Location: Westside
VIC, Australia

altedxr6 wrote:
Its not that hard at all to replace the rear main seal while the motor is STILL bolted into the car

Unplug battery
1. Drain Motor oil.
2, have car on 4 stands
3, unbolt tailshalf
4, remove gearbox selector
5, remove gearbox crossmemeber
6, remove the gearbox box from the bellhousing, (4 15MM bolts)
7, remove gearbox from underneath car
8, Remove starter motor
9, Undo the bellhousing bolts, 6 19mm's and 2 13mm's to get to the top ones you need a 19mm socket and uni-joints,
10, remove clutch
11, remove flywheel
12, use a flat head screw driver to pry out the old main seal
13, install new rear main with a slight coat of out around it behind it
14, Put flywheel back on
15, put clutch back one
16 put bellhousing back on
and then the reverse of the other steps above.

I always replace rear mains when im doing conversions, there is no need to use a hoist or take the motor out or drop the k-frame .


Yeah.. Agreed there...

Ive never had to remove k-frames, etc to get a gearbox or tranny out.

I can have an auto trans out of a car in under an hour, and thats on ramps and stands. A manual is even easier. The top bolts arent that hard. I think its easiest to do the top bolts first while the tranny is still in the car, but rear mount removed, so the engine is tilted far back to get easy access to the bolts.

I'd check your sump bolts first. Ive done 4 manual conversions where there has been a apparent rear main oil leak. Bought the seal, and after removing the box, found no leak. The leak was coming from the half moon right at the rear, and it looked like it was coming from the rear main. These included my car, with km ranges from 130,000 to 260,000.

Its alot of bloody work to replace a $15 seal, specially when its a fairly easy job to do yourself.
Top
 Profile  
 
 
 Post subject: Re: leaking rear main seal..
Posted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:30 pm 
Getting Side Ways
Offline

Posts: 625

Joined: 6th Nov 2004

Ride: R32 GTR

Location: Brackistan
VIC, Australia

dc_todd wrote:
advise or directions as to the best way to replace the rear main seal on my ef XR6? got a bit of a slow leak there.. just wanna get it fixxed up.. is it easier and quicker to get a machanic to do it or is it an easy enough job that I can do it my self witha few mates and beers?

PS Brad, bring back the poll option


Meh, when I bought my Fairmont I had to take it back to Ford for repair, something was seriously wrong since it didn't have any oil leaks. Like the holden ad, dont make your Ford less of a Ford by eliminating oil leaks :)
Top
 Profile  
 
 
Posted: Thu Jul 14, 2005 2:08 am 
Getting Side Ways
Offline
User avatar

Age: 64

Posts: 3552

Joined: 7th Nov 2004

Gallery: 4 images

Power: 482 rwkw

Location: Penrith
NSW, Australia

Leaks come std with car don't they???
You may need what is called a speedy seal if its done a few kmrs..Its a stainless sleeve that fits over crank, smooths surface out if there are any ridges...

 

_________________

As in ZOOM 126 edition
331 Dart block,3.25/ 4340 steel crank, Oliver rods,TFS ported track heat heads, TFS track heat inlet Twin SC61 turbo's
Project 1UZ-EF has started.. S475 Turbo 4.0 V8 Mustang Celica.....

Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:
Sort by  
 Page 1 of 2  [ 16 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 27 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

 

 

It is currently Fri Dec 15, 2017 9:49 pm All times are UTC + 11 hours

 

 

(c)2014 Total Web Solutions Australia - Australian Web Hosting and Domain Names