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| Johnson stroker |
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advise or directions as to the best way to replace the rear main seal on my ef XR6? got a bit of a slow leak there.. just wanna get it fixxed up.. is it easier and quicker to get a machanic to do it or is it an easy enough job that I can do it my self witha few mates and beers?
PS Brad, bring back the poll option
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| Dellboy999 |
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OK, $500 for a mechanic to do it,
1 engine crane, engine and gearbox out, replace seal, do gearbox seals while at it, drop the lot back in the car, takes a day (hence $500). OR drop the gearbox swear b**ch and moan and get the job done, the top bolts are the biggest pain in the a** ever to get undone (i do not reccomend)
_________________ Full working BA Shifter now upgraded to BF Shifter. |
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| Johnson stroker |
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that was my school of thought as well.. I'll make some calls thanks
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| sterpz |
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I think i would just get a mechanic to do it, i changed the clutch on my car and i had to drop the k frame to get the top boltsof the gear box undone, then you would have to take the motor out, unless you could take the gear box out with the motor that might be easier.
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| madmax |
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dc_todd wrote: that was my school of thought as well.. I'll make some calls thanks
I got a Auto trans guy to do mine for me, he also did the rear welsh plugs, as I had already had some of the side ones leak. cost me around $300-$350 including the trans service afterwards.
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| BigBlu |
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Rear mains are much easier to do on a hoist because they are up in the air and can fit a tranny jack under there. Just did one the other day at work it doesnt take much more than one hour to take the box out, and 1.5 hours to put it back together with the new seal in. it also depends on what tools u have this time frame decribed was using a rattle gun and a few 1/2 inch extentions.
_________________ There is no substitue for cubic inches! |
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| stockstandard |
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Can do it yourself, but it might be easer to get the mechanic to do it unless you have all the tools.
The way I do it is to get the car up HIGH, pull the driveshaft, unbolt the gearbox from the bellhousing, then unbolt the bellhousing from the block, pull the pressure plate, clutch, flywheel, change the seal (probably be a real pain to get out), then put it all back together in the reverse order. If you do the gearbox and bellhousing seperately youll have more working room and it is much easier to reach the top bellhousing bolts (I cant get the t5 in or out with the bellhousing on anyway.I cant get the t5 in or out with the bellhousing on anyway). It is also really easy to align the clutch as you put the gearbox in. The seal itself will set you back about $10.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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| Andrew J |
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Isnt it amazing how cheap a seal can be, et how expensive it is in time effort and money to replace it
 Sort of like the rear welsh plugs.
_________________ The problem with America is stupidity. I'm not saying there should be a capital punishment for stupidity, but why don't we just take the safety labels off of everything and let the problem solve itself?
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| Johnson stroker |
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got a quote $400 from my local non ford mechanic.. called ford for a laugh.. $970 and 3 days... the guy couldn't understand why I was laughing so much.. he insisted they used genuine ford parts as it was an XR6..
So does my local mechanic.. they guy know more about em than ford does.. he has been fixing their mistakes for years.. so $400 and 1 day without a car.. not too bad?? I'll be reduced to driving the astra for a day. I'm a bit disapointed though.. that $400 could have gone on some mods.. ie a head shave.. ahh well pipe dreams. keep me posted with other sugestions.. anyone in parramatta area recommend anyone? my mechanic is omega outomotive at guildford.. suggestions... would is also be an idea to get the fly wheel machined at the same time? there is a slight knock at idle, of would you just suspect that is the knock back on the flywheel?
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| stockstandard |
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If you are getting a mechanic to do it then probably best to get him to give everything the once over. Some can be trusted to tell you what needs attention, and what is normal.
I machine my flywheel each time I change the clutch. Depending on how old the clutch is it might be worth changine that as well. Better to do it now when your already paying $400 odd labour pulling the gearbox and waste a bit of clutch than having to pay another $400 is labout when it wears out.
_________________ Stoke me a clipper, I'll be back for Christmas |
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| altedxr6 |
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Its not that hard at all to replace the rear main seal while the motor is STILL bolted into the car
Unplug battery 1. Drain Motor oil. 2, have car on 4 stands 3, unbolt tailshalf 4, remove gearbox selector 5, remove gearbox crossmemeber 6, remove the gearbox box from the bellhousing, (4 15MM bolts) 7, remove gearbox from underneath car 8, Remove starter motor 9, Undo the bellhousing bolts, 6 19mm's and 2 13mm's to get to the top ones you need a 19mm socket and uni-joints, 10, remove clutch 11, remove flywheel 12, use a flat head screw driver to pry out the old main seal 13, install new rear main with a slight coat of out around it behind it 14, Put flywheel back on 15, put clutch back one 16 put bellhousing back on and then the reverse of the other steps above. I always replace rear mains when im doing conversions, there is no need to use a hoist or take the motor out or drop the k-frame . |
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| Dellboy999 |
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dc_todd - you have a manual so what is said above is right, I am just so used to working on auto's, and there are more of them, I forget about manual's
_________________ Full working BA Shifter now upgraded to BF Shifter. |
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| arm79 |
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altedxr6 wrote: Its not that hard at all to replace the rear main seal while the motor is STILL bolted into the car
Unplug battery 1. Drain Motor oil. 2, have car on 4 stands 3, unbolt tailshalf 4, remove gearbox selector 5, remove gearbox crossmemeber 6, remove the gearbox box from the bellhousing, (4 15MM bolts) 7, remove gearbox from underneath car 8, Remove starter motor 9, Undo the bellhousing bolts, 6 19mm's and 2 13mm's to get to the top ones you need a 19mm socket and uni-joints, 10, remove clutch 11, remove flywheel 12, use a flat head screw driver to pry out the old main seal 13, install new rear main with a slight coat of out around it behind it 14, Put flywheel back on 15, put clutch back one 16 put bellhousing back on and then the reverse of the other steps above. I always replace rear mains when im doing conversions, there is no need to use a hoist or take the motor out or drop the k-frame . Yeah.. Agreed there... Ive never had to remove k-frames, etc to get a gearbox or tranny out. I can have an auto trans out of a car in under an hour, and thats on ramps and stands. A manual is even easier. The top bolts arent that hard. I think its easiest to do the top bolts first while the tranny is still in the car, but rear mount removed, so the engine is tilted far back to get easy access to the bolts. I'd check your sump bolts first. Ive done 4 manual conversions where there has been a apparent rear main oil leak. Bought the seal, and after removing the box, found no leak. The leak was coming from the half moon right at the rear, and it looked like it was coming from the rear main. These included my car, with km ranges from 130,000 to 260,000. Its alot of bloody work to replace a $15 seal, specially when its a fairly easy job to do yourself. |
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| Bozz |
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dc_todd wrote: advise or directions as to the best way to replace the rear main seal on my ef XR6? got a bit of a slow leak there.. just wanna get it fixxed up.. is it easier and quicker to get a machanic to do it or is it an easy enough job that I can do it my self witha few mates and beers?
PS Brad, bring back the poll option Meh, when I bought my Fairmont I had to take it back to Ford for repair, something was seriously wrong since it didn't have any oil leaks. Like the holden ad, dont make your Ford less of a Ford by eliminating oil leaks
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| EBXR8380 |
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Leaks come std with car don't they???
You may need what is called a speedy seal if its done a few kmrs..Its a stainless sleeve that fits over crank, smooths surface out if there are any ridges...
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