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Loosing oil preesure after long drive and stop in gear 

 

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 Post subject: Loosing oil preesure after long drive and stop in gear
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:51 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Hey guys
when i drive home from work i give it a go here and them on the way home threw the city and just before i get onto the high way i get stuck in traffic for about 2 mins and that when ill loose my oil pressure and my dash beeps and all.(the engine tem over half at this time)
if i click the t-bar into netural it comes back when the revs jump back up.

anyone got any ideas whats happening?

Blocked oil filter?
Oil pump dieing?
need thicker oil cause it getting to thin while hot


all i know is the oil pump strugles to pick up the oil when it been drive had for 10mins threw the city and you stop at lights and sit for about 2 mins.
Ive got right oil lvl on my dip stick

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:59 pm 
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What model we talking about here???

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:05 pm 
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Holy crap stupid me
I got Ford Fairmont EF II 4.0L I6 1995

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:28 pm 
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What do you have for a guage to read the oil pressure.????
You can't always trust the factory fitted guages.
Where does the guage read at cold idle???
Where does the guage read when at hot idle???

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:39 pm 
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mine done the same thing i put in a new oil pump still did the same thing it ended up being the oil presser switch . if this does't fix the problem it could be the pump are worn oil journals on the crank
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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:48 pm 
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if oil pressure is OK when cold but not when hot suggests your oil gets too thin when hot. Find out first what grade of oil did your mechanic used. I used to drive EL and if I can remember it right the handbook recommends API SG/CD 20/50.

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:49 pm 
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Quote:
MARK.TANIA Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:39 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

mine done the same thing i put in a new oil pump still did the same thing it ended up being the oil presser switch . if this does't fix the problem it could be the pump are worn oil journals on the crank

yer that would be about right work crank journals my luck.
id say it oil pressure switch it never felt right
when i first bought the car the guage NEVER moves when it started it just sat in dead middle when i reved it and sat at idel.
ove the last few months it started moving last month and when i rev it it goes up then take my foot off and let idel and it drops down to dead center or just below.

Quote:
cjh Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 9:28 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What do you have for a guage to read the oil pressure.????
You can't always trust the factory fitted guages.
Where does the guage read at cold idle???
Where does the guage read when at hot idle???


i got the fairmont dash so it has oil pressure guage what goes from 0 to 7 or 9 and sit in the middle around 4-5 area

at cold hmm it sit about middle
hot(after driving hard and temp guage at 3/4 it sits about between 1/4 and 1/2 on oil pressure guage

 

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Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 11:07 pm 
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john_jay wrote:
if oil pressure is OK when cold but not when hot suggests your oil gets too thin when hot. Find out first what grade of oil did your mechanic used. I used to drive EL and if I can remember it right the handbook recommends API SG/CD 20/50.



My mechanic(ME lol) put 5w 40 fully synthetic ELF engine oil into my motor

all the mechanic told me it would work great which it has up to last week

if it the problem ill use castrol 10w 40 Fully synthetic oil.

Apprentice mechanic the perks of working in the industry free oils HEHEHEHE love it when you got a great boss

if either of them oils are no good ill have to buy oil which i won't be happy about. lol When theres about 2500L of castrol oil that i can use and about 600L elf oil i can use

LMAO thats a lot of oil and nice number of services i could do to my car

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 11:03 am 
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Xflow wrote:
john_jay wrote:
if oil pressure is OK when cold but not when hot suggests your oil gets too thin when hot. Find out first what grade of oil did your mechanic used. I used to drive EL and if I can remember it right the handbook recommends API SG/CD 20/50.



My mechanic(ME lol) put 5w 40 fully synthetic ELF engine oil into my motor

all the mechanic told me it would work great which it has up to last week

if it the problem ill use castrol 10w 40 Fully synthetic oil.

Apprentice mechanic the perks of working in the industry free oils HEHEHEHE love it when you got a great boss

if either of them oils are no good ill have to buy oil which i won't be happy about. lol When theres about 2500L of castrol oil that i can use and about 600L elf oil i can use

LMAO thats a lot of oil and nice number of services i could do to my car


This is where most people are divided into believing that thin oil is better than thick oil. I myself is not yet fully convinced on this. Let me explain why.

5W is too thin for an old engine like EF fords. Thin oil is easier to pump but creates a very low pressure if you use it on a low revving engine like EF and EL therefore oil is likely not reaching the top of your engine. Remember, engine wear happens on the first 5 minutes after starting. You would also find that most high revving engines recommends thin oil as this will compensate with the low pressure characteristics of a thinner oil. More rev means better oil circulation.

5W specification was introduced in countries where temperature drops below 0 degrees to prevent engine wear during starting (where "W" stands for winter). If you live in an area where the coldest temp does not drop below 0 derees centigrate it is adviseable to use thcker oil. However, thicker oil is harder to pump and creates a higher pressure therefore more load into the engine and higher fuel consumption.

to summarise differences on thin againt thick:

thick oil = better pressure = high fuel consumption = poor performance = longer engine life
thin oil = low pressure = low fuel consumption = better performance = short engine life

I hope this helps

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 11:50 am 
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as i own a simial moddle fairmont (95 ef,96 el,88 ea) the recomended oil is a 15/40 grade oil and this is the only grade i will use as haved used 20/50,5/40 ect and never hadthe same good results as using 15/40 personally my prefered brand is a new semi synthetic by penrite its the coorect 15/40 grade and my cars run perfect oil pressure so i suggest you can use this and see haow it goes as the oil at your work arny quite right for these vechiles

where bouts and what company you work for

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 12:13 pm 
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what oil pressure is my motor ment to run at idel and and different rpm just a average area.

when i went to pick up my exhaust today i scored my self a few guages and one is a oil presure guage and i just want to know what i should see on the guage when i install it it also come with a sender unit what ill try and ill also hook up my dash guage to it and see how it runs.

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 4:07 pm 
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on a good engine at idle it should be around the 40-50mark and at the 3000-4000 rev range it should be around the 60 mark some where readings will differ depending on ks

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:18 pm 
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go for falcon style and get the standard speedo with only the temp gauge and fuel gauge less to worry about lol

 

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 6:00 pm 
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Falcon96kickass wrote:
go for falcon style and get the standard speedo with only the temp gauge and fuel gauge less to worry about lol


ill do that only if you pay for my next engine rebuild when it dose blown up because of poor oil lubrication when it should of been consulted properly.
lol i didn't think so LMAO

 

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18" koya Strykers, AU engine with port and polish EB head, crow valve springs, standard cam, Large aftermarket RX7 turbo, T5 manual 3" intercooler piping, 600x300x100 intercooler core, MSII with innovate wideband O2 sensor and guage. BA F6 bodykit

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Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 8:38 pm 
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also depends where you live in australia. if say you lived at cloncurry or alice springs i would be using 20w/50 especially if it's over the 150000km mark.

 

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