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Mandrel bent intake pipes 

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 3:29 am 
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Hey welcome back to the land of the living fuzion.

Are you still making up those mandrel bent intakes????? :?:

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 1:47 am 
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RedEF6 wrote:
Screamer, just a note, what other mods have you done? I had a 3" stainlless intake on my EF Fairmont for a while as I bought it in a group buy with some other friends. It made no difference to my car. I had it running a pod filter in factory air box with AU XR8 snorkel, and as I only had cat back exhaust no extractors, I noticed no difference.

Just food for thought
You really need the full Exhaust Ie extractors to get the full benefit from the intake.
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 7:15 am 
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Posted: Wed Sep 21, 2005 11:17 pm 
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i do an intake pipe that moves the filter to where the battery is, you need to move the battery to the boot or to where the filter box is now.
it's made from highly polished 3 inch s/s all joins are TIG welded

it currently uses a pod filter that is open.
i'm working on a fibre glass box to house the filter that will draw cold air from under the head light and from the hole in the inner gaurd where the batter used to get air from.

the reason for the change of position is to straighten out the air path and to reduce the number bends. (mine has one 90deg and 2 45deg bends.

the pipe is $150 at the monent
not sure how much the box is going to cost.

when it's all sorted i'll put together a package consisting of the pipe,
a K&N filter, the fibre glass air box and the cables needed to move the battery to where the old air box is.

that is of coares there is enough interest

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 12:04 am 
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I was thinking of doing the same thing as tickford_6 has done.
The air path would be much smoother.
you will also need a shield under it to minimise heat over the extractors.
the starter cable would be half the size, but alternator cable would be fairly long.

when you get some pics, post them, cause it's quite a good setup by the sounds of it.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 12:09 am 
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will do with the pics.

i left out the heat shield as stock they have one. and not all extractors are the same.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 2:20 am 
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moving the intake isnt such a good idea. Because the newly positioned pipe will have to run over top of the exhuast manifold, there for heating up the pipe and the air inside it. think thats why ford positioned it to were it is now. I dunno but i wouldnt want that. What does everyone else think?
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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 12:21 pm 
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yep i dont think you will get any gains from doing it with the small amount of extra flow you will get all you will achieve is heating up the air the exhaust manifold area is redhot even with the heat shield
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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 5:22 pm 
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was some 1 making them for cars with gas?? or was it just the same pipe?? i want to go the sequential scoop, k&n pod in the air box with the au3 xr8 snorkel and the mandrel bent pipe

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 8:39 pm 
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for me is no drama at all with HPC coated extractors and a heat sheild.

i've also done testing with the stock setup and found that 90% of the heat in your intake air is from heat soak in the air box its self. and the intake temp on a 30degree day still get up around 70 to 80 degrees.

of coures i'm going to test the results of my intake, but don't make asumptions

infact i'm going out side to do it now

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 10:53 pm 
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first test results back.

to make things even the air bos was removed, as the box for the new pipe is not finnished. it also made both pipe very close in length.

out side air temp was 23.5degrees
stock EL pipe made 51.5deg my pipe 52deg
not really worth worrying over 0.5degrees is it.?
my temp probe is sensitive to a 0.1 degree change in temp

add to that there was no heat sheild fitted over the extractors like there will be in the finnished version.

i'll keep testing as the project progresses.

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 11:05 pm 
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I'm not having a go at your design or methods, but how long was that over ? It's no good testing it there idling in your driveway for 2 minutes. My car goes like a shower of s**t first thing in the morning but loses a bit of sting as heatsoak set it - which is more likely an issue of the intake manifold being bolted straight to the side of a hot block!

 

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Posted: Thu Sep 22, 2005 11:10 pm 
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hyena - not really, cause the way it works, it would be slightly shorter (less bends) and the flow would be a little bit better.
A heat shield on the exhaust and a custom one under the plumbing would make it better than the factory one.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 12:07 am 
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was about 15 mins each bonnet closed engine at operating temp.

i made each test as even as i could.

but from what i have previously tested the air box and snorkle its self was biggest culprit when it came to heat soak. testing at a point about 20mm from the air box there was a 25 to 30 degree rise in temps and from that point to the TB there was only a 3 to 7 degree rise.


my theory is based on getting a shorter straighter path the TB (as once in the manifold there is really nothing we can do)

the factory snorkle also runs very close the rad
the air box i'm making feeds air from under the drivers side head lights and from the factory hole in the inner gaurd on the drivers side.

i know i could drill large hole under the stock air box but i dont want to cut up my car at this stage.


i also think it's about time some one strated to think up new ideas and try new things. all this AU snorkle or drill a big hole is getting a bit stale IMO and we are only limmiting our selfs buy doing it the same way all of the time

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 23, 2005 12:23 am 
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Yeah they get hot! I've measured the temp at my airbox and the outlet temp of the airbox (ie as it joins the pipe that goes to the throttle body) on a hot day got over 70 degrees!

 

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