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MAP sensor? or something more serious? 

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 2:55 am 
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Thanks a lot, justfordima. that was great information

i can guarantee that the fuel pump is working since i can hear the pump going and i kinda already replaced the whole fuel line about 2 months ago with new pump and filter. so im doubting its anything with petrol. The Sparkies also work fine becos the RACV guy tested it and it worked fine and the MAP sensor was replaced about 5 years ago and i do think there is something wrong with it becos im using quiet a lot of petrol then usual. besides that i think the ISC is the problem. I took it off as u described and gave it a little clean, and placed it back and turned it over. it started normally so i thought great that was the problem. i took it out again and cleaned it more thoroughly placed it back in and this time it didnt work. So now im just clueless. And i dun think the EMP did anything to my ECU since everything else seems to work fine. might give it another shot tomorrow when its daylight. thanks again mate =)

cheers

phong

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 10:17 am 
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no worries. Good to hear you got it going. Even for a little bit. It might be getting stuck, and if its this bad, might need replacing (wreckers). Fuel consumption isn't soley dependant on the MAP sensor (its the Manifold Aire Pressure sensor by the way) there are alot of variables that come into play. There's the oxy sensor which is more prone to failing than a map, there's also the oil in your engine, worn timing chain guides, and bits and pieces everywhere really. It just depends on how your car runs. With a map not working, the car will hunt for an idle (up and down), and almost stall a couple of time.Try unplugging it (the electrical connector, black thingy on the firewall just in front of passenger seat in the engine bay. It has a vaccum hose, and an electrical plug. There is also ways to tell if your oxy sensor is working, mostly it's measuring the voltage across the sensor itself.

As for EMP, you need alot of it to actually kill something, but a small dosage can also temporarly kill things. In other words, your ECU might've reset itself.

And if not, reset the ECU... Start from fresh, and see if anything changes (after resetting an ECU the car might stall here and there btw, like at the lights.).

Quote:
So to calibrate as follows:

First of all drive the car to normal engine temp and the thermostat has opened etc
Then to verify the correct idlespeed of the engine the following 4 steps should be taken with the vehicle being idled while stationary for approx 1 minute in each of the following conditions (total idling time approx 4 minutes)
NOTE- DO NOT TOUCH THE ACCELLERATOR DURING ANY PERIOD OF THE 5 following ADAPTIVE PROCESS.

1. Neutral with all electrical loads OFF.
2. Neutral with Air conditioning ON.
3. *Drive with all electrical loads off.
4. *Drive with Air conditioning ON.

*As a clarifying note, I guess that for steps 3. & 4., you can place the car in D with the handbrake firmly applied and DO NOT TOUCH the accelerator peddle.

After all this has been done then proceed to go on and to do these steps which actually set the TPS values;
5. To set the closed throttle referance position , place the transmission
in D, air con off, and let the engine idle for a minimum of 1 minute.
6. Next, set the wide-open throttle reference position by turning the
engine off- but leave the ignition switch to the "ON," position, ie;Idiot lights on etc, then press the accelerator
pedal to the floor and hold it their for 1 minute, minimum.
7. Then Place the gear selector to Park and switch off the ignition.
8. Drive the vehicle and check for proper shifting patterns.


Good luck :-)

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 10:26 am 
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thanks again. ill give that a shot later on when i get back home from uni. thanks mate

phong

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 4:40 pm 
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alrite i tried starting my car when i got back just then, it started normally. turned the key off again and then tried again, but the same problem occurs.

ive just taken the connections on the negative terminal of the battery to reset the ECU and going to do the TPS calibration. ill see what happens

cheers
phong

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 5:31 pm 
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well ive done those steps and it seems to be alrite. but it still has the funny start up. when i turn the key it takes a while for it to idle, maybe about 30 to a minute while it is jumping around, and then the "battery" light goes on and off, and then it'll idle normally after a while

what else could cause this weird start up? oh and sometimes it does exactly the same thing again

dunno whats going on

thanks

phong

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:40 pm 
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Wierd... I dunno about the start up. hmmm... have you checked for vaccum leaks along the map sensor tube?(the vaccum tube), maybe try and borrow someone else? or get one from the wreckers? is there any other symptoms apart from the idle at start up?


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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:54 pm 
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ummmm i just took it for a drive cause my mum needed to go shopping and also filled her up.

sometimes when i accelerate from stand still normally the car seems to lose power and it feels as though the car is about to stall. but then it fixes itself up and then gets back to normal. from what u told me it seems to be a normal thing after reseting ECU. but when starting up it sometimes has a rough idle

i might need to go wreckers tomorrow to get new MAP sensor.

thanks for the help mate. all the steps were easy and helpful and it worked. cheers ^_^

phong

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 6:55 pm 
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Maybe your alternator isn't charging properly if the battery light is coming on?

Maybe leaking injectors?
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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:01 pm 
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It is normal for the car to dile rough, and run a bit rough, but nothing big.

What you are experiencing is like a flat spot? In which case it can be fuel pump, map sensor, timing, and a bunch of other things. See how it goes like it is, the ECU can take a while to relearn, should be sweet in a couple of days though. Just go from there.

As for the alternator, the battery light only turns on, if the revs drop too low according to the description, otherwise it'll always be on.


Cheers

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:12 pm 
Fordmods Junkie
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yeah the battery light only goes on when it idles rough and drops below a certain rev, but then it just kicks in and idles normally. so i might just need to check up on the timing and MAP sensor. easy things first. gonna try my friends MAP sensor, see what happens

thanks

phong

EDIT: by the way justfordima, nice video clip hahaha.

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:21 pm 
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lol, very old video clip. Not bad for an auto single spinner :-D Friends map sensor is what Id by trying first aswell.. They don't fail that often, normally its other things causing it to read incorrectly. Just make sure that your vaccum tube has no cracks in it, mixing up the MAP sensor readings. Also did you try unplugging the ISC, and bumping up your idle? What car have you got btw?



Cheers

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:28 pm 
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i have an EA Fairmont Ghia. MPFI and i actually took the ISC out and i cleaned it a bit. but the thing stuck to the metal cover where the wires are connected to seems to be stuck in. i couldn't undo the screws. so i might actually need to try that

how much should the idle speed be on? mine at the moment is like on 500 or 600. if memory serves me rite it used to be about 700

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:30 pm 
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650-750 for idle speed. I don't understand what you are talking about.. what thing stuck to the metal cover? What screws?

Cheers

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:33 pm 
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i took the 2 x 10mm bolts off, and the cylinder cover comes off yeah?

on that thing there is a little motor or coil of some sort stuck to the side of it and that is where the wires are connected too. and that thing is held onto the cylinder cover by 2 phillips head screws. i dunnno what that thing is and i couldn't undo the screws to find out. hope u know what im talking about now

cheers
phong

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2005 7:35 pm 
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ok, you are talking about the actual solenoid. You don't need to remove those screws. Just if you look at the bottom of the ISC you'll see holes, inside those are butterflies which are controlled by the solenoid (the coil) which you are talking about. Leave it in one piece, but pour carby cleaner into the holes at the bottom, hold your fingers on them, shake around, and then repeat... that should clean it.


Cheers

 

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