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Mulipoint Conversion Help ( Melbourne ) 

 

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 Post subject: Mulipoint Conversion Help ( Melbourne )
Posted: Mon Jan 09, 2006 9:02 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Joined: 19th Jun 2005

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

hey guys i have a ea s 3.9 singl point and id like to convert it to multipoint .because i wanna turbo my car im not much of a mechanic is there anyone here that could help me convert my car to multipoint of course at a price or somone that could recommend e a shop or garage that could do it, im in the eastern suburbs of melbounre any help would be great

Regards Allan

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:42 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 31

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Ride: BA Falcon Suzy Across

Power: 178 rwkw

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

Hey, I dont know who would do the conversion but I have a file on my computer with the instructions. I can't remeber the author so credit goes to whoever wrote it up. Here it is:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

CFI - MPFI
Parts List
You will need - MPFI manifold, fuel rail, injectors, and the TPS, ISC, and air temp. sensors.

You could get an MPFI dizzy, but I have never had an issue with it in all the conversions I've done. Just use the CFI dizzy.

A/C compressor bracket off MPFI (EA/ED only) as the compressor must be moved down to clear the manifold. Make sure to get the two bolts which hold it onto the block!

Spare coolant - I prefer distilled water and concentrate as water is 60c/L :)

A spare pin to go in the computer loom (female) side of the manifold plug (I will refer to this plug assembly from now on as the 'main' plug). Plus about a metre of wire, salvaged from the same loom as the pin is easiest.

A MPFI fuel pump - get the right pump for the manifold as the fuel rail pressures vary between models.

MPFI brake booster hose (EA-ED), EA/ED breather hose (back of rockerbox to throttle body), and an appropriate MAP sensor hose.

Also needed is a length of 5/8 heater hose - 1m is sufficient, measuring anyway is recommended - and if you want, the metal pipes. One runs round the back of the motor and the other comes out of the thermostat housing. The back pipe is not really neccessary, but the front one will require bending to fit around the new manifold.

And the MPFI manifold loom. Now be careful with this, there are several differences between models. Most Falcons have a little pink wire which connects to the dizzy at the front of the manifold. If you have it, MAKE SURE THE NEW LOOM DOES! If you don't have it, I don't rember that it matters overmuch. Sometimes the pins inside the main loom plug are arranged in a different order. This is not very common and I don't know why, however I have seen it twice before. The other major difference is in the shape of the TPS and ISC plugs.
On the ED, EF, and EL, the plugs are a different shape to the earlier models. If you are fitting an EF or EL manifold, you will require an ED loom. You will also need to swap the EF/EL ISC plug onto your ED loom.
Tools List
· Hammer!
· Socket set, universal joint(important) and lots of extensions. Ser1 EAs use an 8mm intake bolt, all others seem to use a 10mm, go figure. If you don't have a uni. joint, you'll have to do some of the bottom bolts (EA MPFI) with a spanner. This is not easy.
· Paint pen, Whiteout, or something.
· Medium Phillips and flathead screwdrivers.
· Set of Allen(hex) keys.
· Big screwdriver or other lever.
· Vice grips.
· Knife/straight razor.
· Wire cutters/scissors, or, use the knife.
· Soldering iron, solder, and sparky's tape.
· Voltmeter/continuity tester, if you have one.
· Gasket sealant i.e. Gasket Goo.
· Intake manifold gasket (MPFI), or, large Cornflakes packet.
· Paperclip, jeweller's screwdriver, pin, something to operate the little plastic clips which hold the pins into the main loom plug.
· Bandaids...
· Torch so you can see where you dropped the bloody bolt this time!
Removal of the old manifold

Before you start, this is important!

NOTE: The first thing you'll want to do is check the dizzy won't foul on the new manifold.
If it does, it's going to get complicated. I'll put that explanation at the end as it'll be quite long and will break the flow. Refer there now if you have this problem

You need to undo the two fuel lines from the carby. Mark which is which. If you lose them the fuel filter is on the inlet hose.

Unplug the spark plug leads from the plugs, be sure to mark them.

Undo the main plug and the square 4-pin plug next to it. Undo the coil, suppressor, oil sensor, and where fitted, the little pink wire at the front. Also undo the gearbox plug (4-speed only) from the secondary TPS sensor, and the ISC plug.

Undo the brake booster hose, vacuum supply hoses, and MAP sensor hose.

Undo the accelerator cable, and kickdown (3-speed only)

Unbolt the flange holding the metal pipe into the thermostat housing, and the flange holding the Y-shaped piece of pipe into the back of the manifold. These pipes are easiest to remove later on.

Unbolt the support for the dipstick, then pull out the whole dipstick tube.

Undo the purge canister hose (orange, underneath the manifold), the breather hose off the back of the rockerbox, and the PCV hose.

Undo the bolts holding the manifold on, completely removing all except one top one at each end. Then, supporting the manifold, remove the top bolts.

Now that the manifold is free, it will be easier to pull the metal pipes out, which are likely to prove very stiff. Vice grips and a big screwdriver (lever) seem to work the best. Twisting helps too. Preparing the engine bay

First things first, let's look at the wiring. If you're lucky, you have a manual or 3-speed and your job is easy. If you have a 4-speed it's a bit harder.

The first bit of wiring, common to both, is to cut the grey/white wire about an inch away from the idle motor plug. Extend it up to the computer loom part of the main loom plug, cut to length and add the pin on the end. Then put it into the plug so that it corresponds with the grey/white wire on the MPFI loom. While you're messing about in the plug, make sure all the other wires correspond correctly.

Then, ONLY if you have a 4-speed, peel about 1/2 an inch of insulation - without cutting the wires! - off the three TPS wires in the manifold loom, a few inches before the main loom plug. These wires are green/black, black/white, and orange/black.

Cut the *gearbox* TPS plug off the old CFI manifold loom, leaving as much wire on the plug as possible. Now wire it up to the stripped wires. It should have a black, a green, and an orange wire. These correspond to the TPS wire colours.

You will also want to disconnect the heater hose from the metal pipe round the back of the motor, as it'll have to go between the new manifold's runners (only if it's an EA-ED one).

Unbolt the a/c compressor and install the bracket for it, then bolt it back on in the new, low position (again, EA/ED only).

Carefully scrape the remains of the old gasket away with the razor blade.

If you're making your own gasket, fold the cornflakes packet open and place it over the CFI manifold where the gasket should go. Make holes for the bolts and slide them into the holes so that they hold the gasket down.

Next, use the hammer to gently but firmly tap around the outside of the manifold so as to cut the cardboard to shape. Use the knife for tricky spots. Then use the knife to do the inside. Once you have your gasket, position it on the MPFI manifold and cut out the bits where the injectors go.

It's not a bad idea to clean the bay up while it's empty.... Installing the new manifold
First, make sure it's fully assembled, except for the fuel rail/injectors. If it's an EF/EL manifold, take the throttle body off, being careful not to damage the gasket.

Lower the manifold into the bay.

Feed the heater hose through between 5 and 6 runners (EA only; EF the hose just goes under the manifold) and reconnect it to the metal pipe. I generally find that it I don't use sealant, these hoses will leak no matter how tight they are.

It will also be a really good idea to connect the coil, suppressor, and oil sender at this time - they will be VERY DIFFICULT later if it's an EA manifold.

Feed the plug leads through the manifold between 2 and 3 runners. Leave them loose for the minute.

Plug in the little pink wire and feed the fuel lines up between the manifold and bulkhead so you won't have to search for them later.

Smear some sealant on the end of the metal hose from the thermostat and push it back in. Just secure the bolt loosely for the minute.

Now put the length of 5/8 hose on the Y-shaped bit you disconnected from the CFI manifold. Again, use sealant. Run the pipe around the outside of the manifold to the thermostat metal pipe, and make the metal pipe fit around the manifold :) Be careful not to bend it too far at one time, or you'll kink the metal.

Now secure the manifold loosely with a bolt through the top at each end. Put the gasket in now. Make sure all the plugs are connected and the fuel lines up, then put the rest of the bolts in loosely before you tighten ANY. This is because the gasket can slide down so that some bolts won't go in. If this happens and you tighten it up, you'll be undoing a lot of bolts to fix it - and swearing a lot too.

Now connect the main plug and the little 4-pin square plug next to it. Also the gearbox plug if you have it. Do the pink wire too so we don't forget it.

Connect the new brake booster hose, the vacuum supply hoses, the breather hose, and the new MAP sensor hose. *WARNING* Only do this now if it's an EA manifold, if it's EF then wait until the fuel rail's in!

Then do the purge canister and PCV hoses.

Next do the fuel rail. Lubricate the O-rings on the injectors with a little clean engine oil before installation. Make sure to fit and tighten the fuel lines before bolting the rail down. On both MPFI manifolds, the dipstick is secured to a fuel rail bolt. If you're using the CFI dipstick, bend it carefully to fit.
Starting the car

Switch the key on, but do not engage the starter. Wait for the fuel pump to finish priming. Do this a few times to remove air from the line. After that, it should start fine. Double-check for vacuum and water leaks.

Take it for a drive to get it warm, then check for water leaks again. In the case of the 4-speed, if it won't kick down you most likely wired up the gearbox TPS switch wrong. MOVING DIZZY PLUGS AROUND
OK if you had troubles with your dizzy position here's what you do.

Going off the plug leads on top of the dizzy, mark one of the leads. Now determine how many leads you have to move it so that it's out of the way, and one of the leads is exactly where the marked one was.

Now being careful not to lose the order, change the position of the marked lead on the dizzy cap until the marked lead is on the post now occupying it's old position. Move the other leads accordingly. This should render the timing similar to what it was. Try to run the engine.
If it runs, but badly, loosen the retaining clip and slowly twist it until the engine runs at its fastest speed. Keep it at idle.

If you had to move the leads, and now the car won't start, you are going to have to do a 'static time'.

The dizzy spins clockwise. The firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.

Find lead 1 and note where it is relative to the distributor body. Now take the rotor cap off and crank the motor until the timing notch meets the '0' indicator on the timing cover. This is TDC or Top Dead Centre. If you can't spin it with the belts, the bolt in the balancer is a 22mm socket.

Since the motor reaches TDC twice in a single cycle, you are looking at TDC at either the end of the compression stroke, when it should fire, or the end of the exhaust stroke, when it should not fire.

OK now if the rotor button is close to your number 1 lead, twist the dizzy to meet it. If not, rotate the motor until it hits TDC again. Is it any closer? If so, twist the dizzy to meet it.
Then put the cap back on and try to start it again. If it starts, twist the dizzy until it runs properly.

Any questions please see this thread.....
http://www.fordforums.com/showthread.php?t=54890

You may notice that your new loom has a little grey or grey/blue wire with a brass loop on the end. This is an earth wire, earth it by putting one of the fuel rail bolts through it. Or manifold bolts, depending on where it stretches to.

In the case of the EF manifold, this is when you install the throttle body and vacuum hoses.

Now hook up the accelerator cable and kickdown if you have it. Double-check the throttle is opening fully.

Top up the water.

 

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178.3 rwkw
15.1@96 mph
Now with 3.9 shrooms

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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:50 am 
Getting Side Ways
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holly crap thats one hell of a reply :D
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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 9:57 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 31

Posts: 4849

Joined: 19th Feb 2005

Gallery: 1 images

Ride: BA Falcon Suzy Across

Power: 178 rwkw

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

:)

 

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178.3 rwkw
15.1@96 mph
Now with 3.9 shrooms

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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:22 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: Carrum Downs
VIC, Australia

dsheps83 wrote:
holly crap thats one hell of a reply :D


Yeah, should have broken it up into several posts, Frank would have. :wink:

 

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She's meanness put to music and the b**ch is born to run!
Like the sign says, "speed's just a question of money. How fast can you go?"

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Posted: Tue Jan 10, 2006 4:47 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Joined: 9th Nov 2004

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Location: Newcastle
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Or you could of just posted the link to its site. http://www.ford-tech.com/articles.php?articleId=46

 

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-Ba xr6t, wog cooler, K&N pod on custom intake, battery moved to other side, flash, custom cooler piping, presons auto, car pc, 19" lenso speed 6, going for 300rwkw
-FZR 250- run around bike

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Posted: Thu Mar 16, 2006 6:26 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 28

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Joined: 6th Jul 2005

Ride: BA xr8 Magnet ute

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

why the f**k would you make a gasket out of a corn flakes packet. when doing mine the only thing i followed on that FAQ is the wiring (still had to mes around with that part too). everything else sounded a bit dodge
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Posted: Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:57 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Joined: 5th Nov 2004

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Ride: ALTED XR6 - ALTED EA - EF TAXI

Location: Sunshine Coast QLD
QLD, Australia

I've found the ford-tech not to be complete and up to date ..

Mising a few things.
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