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My First Stripping Experience... 

 

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 Post subject: My First Stripping Experience...
Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 11:26 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 36

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Location: Mornington
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No not what you dirty buggers think, Im not posting this in the wrong forum...

After getting a 4.0l motor a couple weeks ago, I finally just finished stripping it down. So it is now scattered in about 70 - no make that 80 thousand pieces across the shed.

I guess the question now is do I start fresh with this one and rebuild it from bottom to top and transplant it to my ED, or do i just use what i have done as a learning experience and just work the head and get a new cam and put that on my motor?

I imagine cost will be a huge part of my decision and where i want to go in the future with it, so if I may open the floor to suggestion and possible $$$ figures of what you think it may be for parts to rebuild. Labor shouldnt be a problem as I basically know what I am doing and have a fair welth of knowledge available to me.

Sorry about the long post but i look forward to hearing some ideas and anything that you may be able to add.

Cheers Leon

p.s. shock horror it actually looks like this one didnt blow the head gasket.

 

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Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2006 11:51 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: XH B&S ute, Navara 4x4

Power: 202 rwkw

Location: Bordertown
SA, Australia

that was a hell of a let down :lol:

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 12:08 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: XH B&S ute, Navara 4x4

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Location: Bordertown
SA, Australia

Sorry mate....couple of cans to release the tension from breaking the window in my ute. :oops: . I would (if ya got the dough) rebuild the donk ya got. Better the devil ya know than the devil ya don't! :twisted:

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 12:35 am 
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ohh shut downnnnnnnnnnnnnnn

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 12:36 am 
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Sorry man, I can't help the only stripping Ive ever done was just an EB engine block and head swap.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 1:29 am 
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I definately cant help.

The only stripping I've done is in rundle mall, and the less said about that the better.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 23, 2006 9:30 am 
Getting Side Ways
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gee thanks guys.

I do know how you feel though Jim Beam, i was once 125klms away from home and something like that happened and would you believe someone actually recognised me.

Anyway back on topic im going to start to get some prices on everything today and see how i go.

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 9:11 pm 
Stock as a Rock
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id get someone who knows what their doing
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Posted: Sun Sep 24, 2006 9:35 pm 
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Jim Beam wrote:
I definately cant help.

The only stripping I've done is in rundle mall, and the less said about that the better.


Hahahahahahahahahaha
top marks for that young lad.

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 10:27 am 
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ive stripped heaps of things before....
just not engines :P
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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 12:40 pm 
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It all comes down to what you want, if you've got the bucks and plan on keeping it then go for the rebuild on the one you've stripped.
Get prices on hot tank, deck, bore & hone, crank grind, rod resizing and fitting pistons.

Then you'll need prices on parts, gasket set, pistons & rings, big end and main bearings, welsch plugs, timing chain kit, oil pump.

It's upto you how far you want to go, but also a set of ARP rod bolts wont go astray, balance and blueprint is also a great thing but can be costly.

Work out a budget and start shopping around.
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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 12:58 pm 
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What budget do you have for the rebuild? I can probably give you a rough idea of what you get for your $. Its not all that hard to do, and wont cost heaps if you do the work yourself.

oh, and i personally wouldnt blueprint or go to the trouble of arp rod bolts.

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 1:05 pm 
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Still got to work out a budget with the missus. probably around a grand? im honestly not sure, maybe more if need be.

Was just thinking all new bearings and pistons/rings.
would the block actually need work doing to it?

Cheers

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 1:58 pm 
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Hmm rebuilt a VK motor and i got a full gaskit set, rings, bearings, and head faced and pressure tested.

that cost me $200 for the s**t minus the head work and then another $100 for head work.

I suggest get your head faced and pressure tested. This was you will know its its proper f**k (snatch).

Get ur self a manual.

Have a ring around and get a full rings and bearing kit....ull also need a FULL gaskit set. The gaskit set is ALL the gaskits in the car.

Start with the bottom end. Completly strip the block....welsh plugs and that. When its all good, give it a nice degrease and use a air compressor to get all the crap out of everywhere.

Then go get a hoaning kit. This is tricky to do but easy at the same time. HINT dont go too fast...no more than 120 rpm and no more than 1 min. You want a cris cross look.

And go from there. Bottom end up. Take your time.

Its a great learning experience.

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2006 4:05 pm 
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If your going to go new pistons etc - a rough $ for a mild performance rebuild is

Bottom end machining: ~$300
- hot tank the block (strips of all paint, old oil and gunk etc)
- Bore and hone
- Refinish the deck

Linish the crank ~$50

Balance crank, rods, pistons, balancer and flywheel - $150-$200

Will cost you $50-60 to have the head skimmed. If your going to put a big cam in it in the future, look at putting in some better valve springs now.

Good pistons and ring set is about $300-400

Timing chain kit $80-120 (chain, gears, guides & gaskets)

oil pump ~$70-90

Main & rod bearings $150 give or take depending on brand/quality

Full gasket kit - shop around. Alternately you might want to get an acl race series rebuild kit that includes pistons, rings, bearings and gaskets - everything you need. Ask whoever does the machining to get trade price quote for you.

You will need some tools like ring compressor, torque wrench, feeler gauges etc if you dont have them. You will also need to get the pistons pressed off the old rods and new ones pressed on. This can be quite expensive ($50) or you can do it yourself with a press. There will be more stuff as well, hoses, filters, oil, coolant, head bolts – budget a few $100 for them.

Best bet is to find a good workshop that will help you through it. That’s pretty much how I learnt how to rebuild these engines. They took the time to walk me through the workshop, explain what should be done, why it should be done, and how they do it. From there I followed the rebuild procedure from a Haynes workshop manual. Its good fun, surprisingly easy.

 

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