Hi All

My sump in my NL fairlane is leaking again so the gasket is likely to need replacing. to my understanding only way of doing this is to either drop the K frame or lift the engine out of the car.

i am also having intermittent performance issues. (not the transmission as this has been reconditioned 6 months ago)

The engine was replaced 50,000km ago by ford. to my understanding the one that was in there was a tickford as i believe they where standard in the Fairlane Ghia but ford replaced it with a standard engine.

Anyway i am wondering what the difference between the Tickford engine and standard engine?

would it be worth getting a tickford engine and rebuilding it so it is in new condition (basically i want to get it into a condition where it is basically a new engine) and swap it out?

what would be involved with this? my friend said that i cant bore the cylinders on a ford engine but i dont know the accuracy of this statement as i know someone who did in his fairlane engine however that was a V8.

Also there is a local engineering mob that can balance the engine, i was thinking of getting that done too.

do the Tickford engines have turbo?

Regards

Barry

Q) My sump in my NL fairlane is leaking again so the gasket is likely to need replacing. to my understanding only way of doing this is to either drop the K frame or lift the engine out of the car.
A) Yes, either drop the K Frame or pull the engine.

Q) I am also having intermittent performance issues. (not the transmission as this has been reconditioned 6 months ago)
A) Such as?

The engine was replaced 50,000km ago by ford. to my understanding the one that was in there was a tickford as i believe they where standard in the Fairlane Ghia but ford replaced it with a standard engine.

Q) Anyway i am wondering what the difference between the Tickford engine and standard engine?
A) Head, Cam, Fuel Reg. Bottom end is the same for Tickford/Std.

Q) Would it be worth getting a tickford engine and rebuilding it so it is in new condition (basically i want to get it into a condition where it is basically a new engine) and swap it out?
A) Unless you are after the head, No. Grab an AU Motor, and follow the Modifications needed to fit it to the NL.

Q) What would be involved with this? my friend said that i cant bore the cylinders on a ford engine but i dont know the accuracy of this statement as i know someone who did in his fairlane engine however that was a V8.
A) Your mate is an idiot. I have seen them bored out to 60thou" (1.5mm) Normal is to bore them 20thou" (0.5mm)

Q) Also there is a local engineering mob that can balance the engine, i was thinking of getting that done too.
A) Use an AU Block, better balanced and stronger.

Q) Do the Tickford engines have turbo?
A) No. Turbo is BA onwards and BA Onwards XR6 were NA and Turbo.

Things required to fit AU engine to EF/EL (updated 15/02/14)

1) Sump needs to be modified to fit K-Frame, you can cut and weld the K-Frame but that is up to you, will need engineering after being cut. You cannot use an EF/EL sump as the sump is totally different to AU. There is are cases of the E series sump being used but filler plates or large quantities of sealant wre used, not recommended. Also you loose the advantage of the cross bolting of the AU sump when using the E series sump, one of the major strength points of using the AU Block.

2) You need to use AU/BF alternator or you will need to modify the block and drill and tap mount points to mount the EF/EL alternator.
If you use an AU I alternator you will need to change the plug for the alternator to one from an AUI as these are different from the Mitsubishi alternators.
Note: The AUII & III and BA alternators have the same plug as EF/EL.

3) Remove the Oil Drive Block where the Dizzy (EL) or cam sensor (EF) goes and remove the gear from the shaft and fit to your Dizzy (EL) or Cam Sensor (EF). This will then mean that the gears are matching and you should have no issue’s, there have been issues with dizzy’s failing when this has not been done. Some modding will be required to use the existing mount point, extra notch in the clamp plate or grind the tab off the Cam sensor.
Note:Do not try and drill hole in existing EF position on AU block, you will drill through the block.

4) You will need to use an EF/EL thermostat housing as these have your temp sensor and AU housings do not. You could use the EB type if you wish as this has an extra fitting for an additional sensor is required at a later date.

5) You will need to use the EF/EL BBM as the upper section is different to the AU. Also use the EF/EL throttle body as some of the plugs are different to the AU.

6) Use the EF/EL wiring loom.

7) You will need to tap the block on an AUII/III Block with an M12 1.5 tap if using the EF/EL Knock sensor. AUI is already tapped with the correct thread for the EF/EL Knock Sensor. If using the AU sensor you will need to modify the plug.

8) a) You will need to cut the EF/EL AC pump mount spacers down to 30mm to suit the AU block as well as shortening the bolts by 10mmm if using the AU alternator to suit the standard serpentine belt.
b) If using the EF/EL alternator with modified mounts you will not need to cut down the mounts and be able to use the standard Serpentine belt.
c) Alternatively you can use the AU alternator , standard AC spacers and a Serpentine belt from an XH (Slightly longer).

9) Use the EF/EL power steering pump. This is a direct bolt up. The AU pump hose connection is different to the EF/EL.

10) You do not need to change the Harmonic balancer for either EL (Dizzy) or EF Coil Pack.

11) If fitting to EF you will need to use your original Coil Pack or an AUI coil pack as these are different to AUII & III. (different plug) You can use an AUII/III coil but the plug with need to be changed as well as different leads.

12) You can use the AU head or fit you EF/EL head, that is up to you.

perhaps i should consider just doing the AU engine swap.

with the NL being a Dizzy and the AU being coil pack would i need to put a dizzy on the AU engine or can i just use a coil pack with the NL?

also is it a big job dropping the K frame?

Dizzy into the AU as per the instructions. NL = EL

IMO pulling the engine is easier.

Oh and the performance issues i am having other than the oil leak (that i notice today when i got into work is actually getting fairly bad going by the oil buildup in the carpark at work.

when the car slows down or idles down to idle speed it seems to drop almost to stalling point then the ECU compensates and picks up the RPM of the engine so that it does not snuff. the spark plugs have a white buildup on them fairly thick and sort of crusty. these have now been replaced howeveri asume something has caused it.

and the idle speed even tho it says on the dash that it is 650rpm vibrates the car somting cronic. mirrors shake and things vibrate in the car. unless you touch the accelerator to bring the rpm up a little. then it is ok