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No spark in my 92 EBII. 

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:04 am 
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Get him to check it out
If there is no fuel pump whir then it is probably the relay for the ECU very quick swap
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 12:16 am 
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TwistedEL wrote:
Get him to check it out
If there is no fuel pump whir then it is probably the relay for the ECU very quick swap


...or even a knackered fuel pump. I know it's only two years old, but maybe you have a dirty fuel tank?? Possibility...
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 2:05 am 
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has he back probed the tfi module for the sensor signal with one of those probes while cranking the engine. this checks to see if it is dead or not.

Most mechanics do this first up when they find a dizzy e-series falcon broken down with a good battery and plenty of fuel.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 2:27 pm 
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good luck man

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:08 pm 
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mr_sperm1 wrote:
if smartlock has immobilised the car, you will not hear the fuel pump whirl when you put the key to the ON position. also, the smartlock light will remain on and/or flash (can't remember which - someone will be able to tell you!)
, would the smartlock light be less bright if it were the smaqrtlock? i am in a similar situation and my smartlock light stays on but its very dull
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:09 pm 
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Smart lock will turn off the injectors - there should still be spark.
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:38 pm 
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THE OUTCOME.

First i'd like to thank you all your help.

Now here's what happened:

The middle pin in the distributor cap was worn away, the lead from the coil was fried and he changed the modulator. I have seen the parts and as the lead from the coil to the dizzy was the only one i didn't get to and the dizzy cap middle pin was basically flat with in the centre, i've no clue about this module thingy and will check the site to find out more. All the parts have a 1year warantee although a cash payment deal would kinda void that anyway. It cost me $400 :shock: and here's his break down:

$150 - module
$27 - coil
$30 - Dizzy
$6 - lead
$187 - labour (two and abit hours, having said that he did come and get me in an hour of need and got us back to his garage without the need of a towey)

and he said that he throw in a 'free' air filter as i chucked the other one and was meaning to replace it but didn't. He also did the timing and the car is running a shed load better.

Am I triing to justify the cost, f**k oath I am but at least I have my car from the other side of Sydney rims and all :D

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:44 pm 
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Doesn't sound like much of a mechanic to me. The arcing spark jumping across the loose coil wite to dizzy would have caused it to fry, but why the hell didn't he pick that up? If he changed the dizzy, he would have had to remove the cap (since the price was too cheap for a dizzy, cap AND module), so it sounds like he was just playing "Swaptronics" on it.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:08 pm 
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Sorry guys bout my last post on here.Umm smartlock cuts out spark and injector pulse,but your pump will still run.I have another thing you could try looking at,if you replaced your distributor and it still didnt spark,try having a look at the pink single wire that is held on top of the idle speed control,if it isnt plugged in properly or the wire has been strected and broken you will not get any spark,its like a return for the coil to close the circuit.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 8:19 pm 
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A complete distributor for a falcon is around $120,so i think this guy is puuling more thn just your leg.By the way if you replace a distributor in a falcon you dont need to remove the rotor cap and plugs lead completely.On a EB to ED you just remove the air box and intake rubber tube,then remove the idle speed solenoid and disconnect the pink wire and the earth for the oxygen sensor and the connector on the memcal and the rubber hose on the side of the throttle body.Then undo the clips from the rotor cap and pull the coil lead off the coil and then push the cap back towards the coil if you ct get it back far just remove the dipstick and then its easy to remove the mounting bracket bolt and remove the distributor and reinstall the new one and replace every thing back in reverse order.On EF and EL falcons you have to also remove the air box and i think you will also have to remove the bracket that holds the inlet manifold up,but very similar procedue.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:10 pm 
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KRUPTD - some bright spark at FORD decided to put the entire problem area directly under the exhuast manifold/ extractors.

I'm going to have a look on the weekend to check the new parts if i can work my way through your tutorial. Thnx

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:15 pm 
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$50 bucks complete dizzy on ebay brand new
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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:34 pm 
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No chance of e-bay and delivery in time to help me. Would have been nice

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:01 pm 
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if you read up my old posts, we had the exact same issue on our EA's, mine and my dads ended up being the computers AND my dad also had a few loose wires running to the computer, my recomendation is to replace the computer before you go changing everything else again, we went through 6 coils, 2 dizzies, leads, plugs, checked every engine bay plug and wires...

 

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Posted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 3:28 pm 
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if your smart lock light is very dull sounds more like an earthing problem. check theres no corossion or no bad connections on the battery to start.

 

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