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Non mechanic doing 220,000 service - advice please 

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 2:29 pm 
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falconboy wrote:
Okies, so far I am going to use the following:

Fuel Filter - Ryco $29.99 which I thought was a f**k rip off - but it was from Repco cause noone else had one.

Just need help finding the coolant......


REPCO or Rip Every Poor C**t Off

Got to ford for the "coolant"

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 2:36 pm 
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I am so confused - book says R1-52, but I've been told my coolant should be pink, not green, but ford now says R1-32, which the book says is for the V8.

HELP!!

Pink?
Green?
R1-32
R1-52

Strange thing is, the R1-32 seems to have the same B44-A code as all the generic stuff in the supermarkets/repco.....the book says I need B44-C or D

STILL HELP!!
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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 2:44 pm 
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Pink is R1-50 which is biodegradable and is recommended for all E series, AU & BA. I was put onto R1-50 by a radiator specalist. Since switching over to it I have not had any corrosion problems. It is however not compatible with Green Ethylene Gylcol types

Green will be a Ethylene Gylcol type (???R1-32???)

Have you spoken to Ford Parts about their differant products?

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 2:52 pm 
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Only spoken to the guy at the parts counter at the local dealership wh said to use the R1-32 as its currently green.

You say the 50 isn't compatible with the green 32 - but If I was draining, putting some flush through it and then refilling I guess it would be OK?

Also, I somewhere read that you shouldn't but cold water in a hot radiator because you crack the core or something - however the flush I have, says drain it, refil with water (i'm assuming they don't want it heated in the kettle first!!!), stick in the flush, run it for 10min, drain it and refil with water/coolant mix. But this involves sticking cold water in it twice - is it likely to cause a problem?
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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 2:58 pm 
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falconboy wrote:
You say the 50 isn't compatible with the green 32 - but If I was draining, putting some flush through it and then refilling I guess it would be OK?


You would want to be very thorough... i.e. remove radiator and give a good reverse flush etc, make sure not a trace of former coolant left in the system.

Quote:
Also, I somewhere read that you shouldn't but cold water in a hot radiator because you crack the core or something - however the flush I have, says drain it, refil with water (i'm assuming they don't want it heated in the kettle first!!!), stick in the flush, run it for 10min, drain it and refil with water/coolant mix. But this involves sticking cold water in it twice - is it likely to cause a problem?


Make sure the water isnt ice cold and make sure the radiator isnt boiling hot. Ive never had a problem with it.... ideally you would be using distilled water, this is not likely to be as cold as water coming from the tap.

I wouldnt stress about it tho... the process described on the bottle is how i do mine, no dramas yet (well, the radiator side tank did explode the other week.... but thats a different story, lol :wink: ).

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:01 pm 
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It is true that putting cold water in a hot engine may cause something to crack, but it wont be the radiator core more like the head or the block.

Drain the engine when its cold, then refill with your radiator flush, run engine at 1500rpm for at least 10mins with heater on high temp and radiator cap off until water in reservoir is hot. Allow engine to cool (overnight would be good) flush out radiator treatment using garden hose then refill with new coolant.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:17 pm 
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Spoke to Auto 1, says the 52 is inhibitor and is pink, 32 is coolant and is green. So I assume I will just drain and flush and refil with 32 since its easier than flushing thoroughly enough to do a swap to 52.

Although if its supposed to be 33%, at 16 litre capacity thats 5.28 litres so need to buy 6x 1 litre bottles at $20 a bottle? WTF? $120 to replace coolant?????
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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:24 pm 
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I have a bottle of R1-50 in my garage it is definatly pink don't know what 52 is, maybe its coolant, 50 is corrosion inhibitor only. R1-50 is about $35 a litre and 1 litre is enough to do 15 litres.

Maybe if you asking for coolant thats why your getting a differant story from the shops

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:37 pm 
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Yep, 50 is inhibitor, 32 is anti freeze. The book says if using replace 3 years/100,000 when used at 33%. Which is definately 5.28 litres.

Maybe the inhibitor is a different proportion.

Still seems expensive to pay $120 to replace coolant.

It was only done 12 mths ago and 42000 k's, so I might leave it rather than lining fords pockets.

Do the EF's use the same? As going by an invoice from my EF I had, I was only charged $27 for coolant when I got a new radiator......seems strange...
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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:47 pm 
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That's a lot for coolant.

I just use a coolant concentrate, 500ml treats 10L, EF V8 holds 15L so i put in 1L - enough to treat 20L. Costs about 15 bucks all up. Certainly wouldnt pay much more than that as im always dropping the radiator out for one reason or the other....

I see you're going through ford.... to hell with that, do some research and get your own coolant.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 3:56 pm 
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You don't need antifreeze/anti boil unless you are going up to the snow or very hot climates, most of us only need inhibitor and yes it is a weaker strengh my bottle of R1-50 says add 1lt to cooling system.

$120 dollars is a little steep, most workshops would charge about $30-$40 to replace "coolant" however I guess some would be just replacing inhibitor and refering to it as coolant on the invoice because most owners recognise the term coolant more than corrosion inhibitor.

If you are still wondering about it call a few radiator places and ask them what they use and how much it costs.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 4:09 pm 
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Well, smart thinking, I don't know why I didn't think of it before now - I rang the number in the service records of the mob that have been servicing it most of its life - they use Valvoline GL5. anyone heard of it?

Ok, done 5 out of 6 spark plugs - can't get the last f**k out! Its still a bit warm so maybe when its cooled a bit.

If I can't get it out before I need to drive, is it ok to drive with the 5 new and 1 old? They look ok condition, just pretty dark brown.
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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 4:32 pm 
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Cripes, it took some muscle, but I got the last plug out.

They are all in and it is idling a tad faster - is this normal? The gaps seem ok.
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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 5:01 pm 
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How much faster? If within acceptable RPM (i dunno, mine idles around 650-700) then should be fine. Can always adjust idle if need be (disconnect ISC and adjust base idle screw).

As for not needing coolant... id have to disagree, living in Adelaide. Regularly 38-40 degrees here over the summer.... one of the hottest and definately the driest place on earth.... if Australia doesnt classify as a hot climate then im not sure what does...?

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2005 5:48 pm 
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i usually buy a 5L concentrate coolant bottle and that does my 15L cooling capacity. It is usually around $25-$30. NEVER will i pay more than $30 for coolant cause as 4.9 EF Futura, i drop my coolant often. (around every 10,000-15,000 i replace coolant). I have always used ryco oil filter and never a prob. I always use HPR 15.

Hope that helps a little

 

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