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Oil + Oil Filter Replacement Docco 

 

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 Post subject: Oil + Oil Filter Replacement Docco
Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 2:06 pm 
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Hey all

Ive noticed a few topics has been started with the idea to do a DIY topic with docco's on how to do simple jobs that you would pay for to get done in a service. Ive decided to start this one off as yesterday I chose to do a oil + oil filter replacement on my eb. Correct me if im wrong, I think you should replace your oil every 5,000 km and your filter every 10. Moderators feel free to move this to the docco section if need be.

Tools you will need:

Wrench
Bucket
Oil
Oil Filter
Oil Filter tool (sorry not sure of the name but you will see what it looks like below)
Car ramps

Firstly, place your car up on the car ramps. I would not recommend you do this with a carjack as it is a bit dangerous when your working under it.

Now hop under the engine and place your bucket under the oil bolt. Once in place, undo the oil bolt with your wrench, this will drain all the old oil out of ur engine.

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Now let the oil drain out for quite a while. This will take a bit longer as the car is on ramps and is not even. Leave it for an extended time as you dont want much of the old oil left in there when you put the new oil in.

Now its time to replace the filter. Underneath the passenger side of the car towards the front, you will see the oil filter up underneath on about a 45degree angle. Place your tool around it so it locks in. Once locked in, turn it ANTI-clockwise to start undoing it. Once loose, undo with ur hand. This will make it easier to take off without spilling oil everywhere ur laying.

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Take your new filter out of the box and place it somewhere. Use new oil to fill half of the filter up making sure to lubricate the top of filter with oil where ur screwing it on.


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Hop under engine and place filter on screw and start to turn it clockwise. Once hand tight, get your tool again. There will not be enough room to fit the tool up, so lock it onto the bottom of the filter and tighten from there. Be careful as the material the filter is made out of is quite thin and will dent easily.

Once as tight as it can go, do bolt back up underneath where u drained the oil from. You can now fill rest of oil into engine. You may need more then the one container depending on how much oil you spilt.

As with any new replacement, be sure to check it a few times over the next week or so to make sure there arent any leaks. eg. Nut or Filter

Congratulations, you have just saved yourself some money on a service by replacing your oil and oil filter!

Last edited by eb_guy888 on Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:12 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 2:30 pm 
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Nice work mate, should help a few of the budding DIY'ers, everyones gotta start somewhere!

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 3:10 pm 
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Just to help the sump plug bolt size is 19mm. The 4lt takes 5lts of oil also
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 3:20 pm 
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Try to catch the sump bolt before it drops into the tin, saves you getting messy afterwards. Get the car warm before draining the oil also helps. The oil is thinner and drains better/faster. Be careful though, when the engine is hot, so is the oil. Its also a good idea to make sure the mounting face on the engine block is clean, and that the o ring on the top of the oil filter is in place and lubricated with oil. The oil filter seals with the o ring, and so doesnt need to be done up very tight at all, just enough to stop it coming undone! Other than that, you cant go wrong

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 3:22 pm 
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Good work with the guide.

On a side note; I always replace my filter every oil change, might as well while ya there!

Also, I've never actually used ramps or a jack or anything. I find there's enough clearance on stock and midly lowered cars. Can't comment on superlows though...

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 3:44 pm 
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thanks for the added info guys, yeh probly can do it without ramps but i have lowered mine a bit too far lol and not exactly thin lol Yeh I agree tho, everytime change oil, might aswell change the filter aswell.

Id also like to add that before I did the replacement, I added some engine flush and drove it around for 15-20mins first to get rid of all the slush and crap in the engine, no use putting nice clean oil in a dirty engine
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 4:03 pm 
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I thought you should take the oil cap off the engine whilst its draining, speeds up the draining process.

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 6:39 pm 
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to change the oil on a car with superlows just drive it onto a piece of wood

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:48 pm 
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Another idea my father told me, that his father told him and so forth, is to dip your finger in the new oil, and apply it to the rubber o-ring on the filter. It apparantely helps the o-ring slide easy and not warp while its being done up, therefore seeling better.
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:25 pm 
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ive never been told to do the filter as tight as it can go.

usually about as tight as you can do it with ur hand then just give it a 1/4 kink with the tool

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:57 pm 
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Gaz wrote:
ive never been told to do the filter as tight as it can go.

usually about as tight as you can do it with ur hand then just give it a 1/4 kink with the tool

Thats exactly what I do too, if its too tight its a prick to get off! Plus I've never had trouble with it leaking or anything.
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 8:57 pm 
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i always just use my hands to do it as tight as i can.

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 9:44 pm 
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just spin the filter on till it bites and then do it as tight as u can by hand usually bout 1/2- 2/3's of a turn then when it comes time for next filter change, your not ranting and raving cause the filter is on to tight
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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 9:52 pm 
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Yeah by hand is usually fine, never had one leak on me - and they are still difficult to get off 5000km later :(

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 10:14 pm 
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Good work with the service guide.Hope there will be more to come.

 

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