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OIL ONCE AND FOR ALL 

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 5:27 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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+1 with ToranaGuy, thats was indeed a very interesting read as the general outlook is if it uses oil and makes noise put thicker oil in it.

Might actually do some more research when choosing which oil to run in my XR8, havent changed it yet so dont know.

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 7:42 pm 
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jughead302 wrote:
+1 with ToranaGuy, thats was indeed a very interesting read as the general outlook is if it uses oil and makes noise put thicker oil in it.

Might actually do some more research when choosing which oil to run in my XR8, havent changed it yet so dont know.


Funny thing with that general outlook is that I know of more than a few engines that are 300,000kms and above, if you use thicker than stock spec oil it will tap & rattle like crazy, yet on stock spec oil is quiet as a mouse.

Each engine is different, some wear more than others.

Cheers

ToranaGuy

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 7:46 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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mines had a knock in it since 320 thousand (done352 thousand now)and i decided to run the next oil up from the standard recomended oil and in 1000 kms the knocks gotten crazily loud so i think its only making things worse, also the front main seals decided to leak more :|

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 7:49 pm 
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if you got a knock, thicker oil wont fix it, it will only help hide it..
a knock is a knock from wear, its not going to get better...lol
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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 7:51 pm 
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yeah well i thought id try and hie it so i didnt freak out so much but now its got me so worried ive grabbed another car lol, bodies well and truely stuffed anyway and everything else leaks so its being the doner to a gli

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Sun Jul 17, 2011 7:51 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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Thats what I was meaning to say guys, got a bit lost in the wording.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
Posted: Sat Jul 30, 2011 10:03 pm 
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tickford_6 wrote:
tickford_6 wrote:
tickford_6 wrote:
i'm actually considering use a fuchs 0W20 next service. be interesting to see what happens,


I finally managed to get hold of some GT1 0W20, It'll be going in the AU next week.
Costs twice the price of the current oil but it is a long drain oil so it will be staying in twice as long.

Will try and organize oil analysis every 2000km



Changed the plan.
I did one sample at 10 000km and changed the oil at the same time.
Got the results back the other day. will post them up.
But basically it showed that silicon levels were acceptable (silicon levels show how well you air filter is doing.)
Wear metals like iron, aluminium, lead, tin, chromium, are all good
water content was below 1PPM
Fuel dilution was below %2
There was one strange high reading, can't recall what it was though, The lab couldn't give a reason for it but suggested I keep a close track of cooling system water usage.
i'll check tomorrow and scan and post the report.
The oil was also still in grade with virtually no viscosity change.


For the next tests i'm going to fit a genuine paper air filter and take the K&N one out to see if i can lower the silicon level.
And I'm going to make an effort to sample every 2500km and run the oil until the lab says to change to it. I want to see if i can extend the life of the enough to out weigh the extra cost of it over what i used to spend. (used to use Fuchs GTO 10W30 changed every 5000km)

As it was I proved that
1: Quality thin oil WILL protect your engine (thick oil lubes better....MYTH BUSTED)
2: That even at 10 000km Fuchs GT1 0W20 oil still had plenty of service life left.
3: At a point in my engines life (test started at 135 000km) where the advice from most people on this website is to use thicker oil, that using thinner oil then recommended resulted in ZERO oil consumption and no undue or excessive wear to my engine.


If anyone wants to argue and has used oil analysis results to back them, I'm more then happy to listen.



Ok so due to lack of sampling kits, I'm about to take a sample at 5000km.
(just ticked over 150 000KM)
I made the change to a new Motorcraft air filter and continued to use the Fuchs GT1 0W20 and a Motorcraft AFL1 oil filter.

Oil consumption levels will not be valid this time around as I've noticed the front crank seal is leaking and leaving a small stain on my driveway. which is a pain for two reasons. First being I have to fix the leak, second being the rear main seal won't be far behind.

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Sat Aug 06, 2011 3:12 am 
Getting Side Ways
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is it ok to use 15 - 40w in an ef 6 cylinder? i got a bottle here, and if i can use it i will, i generally change my oil every 5000km's. the car has done 185000km,

thanks

 

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 Post subject: Re: Re:
Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 9:39 pm 
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tickford_6 wrote:
tickford_6 wrote:
tickford_6 wrote:
tickford_6 wrote:
i'm actually considering use a fuchs 0W20 next service. be interesting to see what happens,


I finally managed to get hold of some GT1 0W20, It'll be going in the AU next week.
Costs twice the price of the current oil but it is a long drain oil so it will be staying in twice as long.

Will try and organize oil analysis every 2000km



Changed the plan.
I did one sample at 10 000km and changed the oil at the same time.
Got the results back the other day. will post them up.
But basically it showed that silicon levels were acceptable (silicon levels show how well you air filter is doing.)
Wear metals like iron, aluminium, lead, tin, chromium, are all good
water content was below 1PPM
Fuel dilution was below %2
There was one strange high reading, can't recall what it was though, The lab couldn't give a reason for it but suggested I keep a close track of cooling system water usage.
i'll check tomorrow and scan and post the report.
The oil was also still in grade with virtually no viscosity change.


For the next tests i'm going to fit a genuine paper air filter and take the K&N one out to see if i can lower the silicon level.
And I'm going to make an effort to sample every 2500km and run the oil until the lab says to change to it. I want to see if i can extend the life of the enough to out weigh the extra cost of it over what i used to spend. (used to use Fuchs GTO 10W30 changed every 5000km)

As it was I proved that
1: Quality thin oil WILL protect your engine (thick oil lubes better....MYTH BUSTED)
2: That even at 10 000km Fuchs GT1 0W20 oil still had plenty of service life left.
3: At a point in my engines life (test started at 135 000km) where the advice from most people on this website is to use thicker oil, that using thinner oil then recommended resulted in ZERO oil consumption and no undue or excessive wear to my engine.


If anyone wants to argue and has used oil analysis results to back them, I'm more then happy to listen.



Ok so due to lack of sampling kits, I'm about to take a sample at 5000km.
(just ticked over 150 000KM)
I made the change to a new Motorcraft air filter and continued to use the Fuchs GT1 0W20 and a Motorcraft AFL1 oil filter.

Oil consumption levels will not be valid this time around as I've noticed the front crank seal is leaking and leaving a small stain on my driveway. which is a pain for two reasons. First being I have to fix the leak, second being the rear main seal won't be far behind.


When I took the 5000km sample I found the intake elbow had split open. This will make the info gained from this sample invalid as far as testing for dust ingress through the filter.
Depending the level of dust found at this test I may drop the oil and start again.
That is a bit of a pain, as after I prove the ability of the currently used oil and filters, I was going to continue with the same filters and drop back to the semi syn Fuchs GTO10w30 oil and get a comparison wear partical reading.
On the other hand, I have fixed the air leak, and if I leave the current oil in and retest
at 10 000km If there is competitively little change in dust content and associated wear metal then the filter is then proven to work.

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Sun Aug 07, 2011 10:39 pm 
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tickford_6

Love your work bud, I'm keen to do a oil test to my car. What do I need to do and who to send it too?

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Mon Aug 08, 2011 6:05 pm 
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MICKYYYY wrote:
tickford_6

Love your work bud, I'm keen to do a oil test to my car. What do I need to do and who to send it too?



I use ALS Wearcheck Laboratories.
The number for the sydney centre is 8784 8666.
Basicly You just need to ask them to send you a sample kit. You can also get a sampling pump that runs a hose down the dipstick tube and pumps the oil out. I bought one, ($100) But you don't need it if you are only going to sample at oil changes. I get my stuff from the local Fuchs distributor as I buy alot of oil from them.

When you get the kit you just run the oil to operating temp, (about a 20min drive) pull the sump plug out and take a sample 'midflow'. fill out the form and send it into them. The postage is pre-paid.
They'll email or send the results back. It costs about $40.

It makes for an expansive oil change and this testing is costing me a alot of money to do, but in the end I think the results can benifit every one.



You need to do a few samples to get a picture of the wear rate of your engine, then after that spikes in any of the results shows up problems.

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 3:26 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Ride: 96 EL Fairmont Wgn

Location: Newcastle
NSW, Australia

I've read this whole thread, but didn't see an answer to the question about what oil to use in dual fuel (LPG) cars.

I've got a dual fuel converted EL 4.0L Fairmont with about 240,000km on the clock which I run 95+% in gas. When it went for its last service at my local Ford centre in late June they filled it with "premium plus" 10W30, but reading this thread 15W40 is recommended for ELs. It's got a cracked sump so it has p****d so much oil it's now approaching the 'ADD' area of the dipstick. I'm a total car noob but am thinking about replacing the (remaining) oil/filter as well (so long as I can figure out what the hell I'm doing and don't drown myself in oil).

What oil should I be using? I saw someone mentioned a Nulon LPG something-or-other earlier. Also, what would be the recommended type? 15W40, 10W30, or something else?

I'm getting paranoid about it running out of oil so a (relatively) quick reply would be appreciated.
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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Wed Sep 14, 2011 3:51 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Ride: 96 EL Fairmont Wgn

Location: Newcastle
NSW, Australia

uniacidz wrote:
matey, fix up the sump ASAP.


...If it's any consolation it has already done 5000km since the service. ;)

Too afraid to try anything that complicated. Read something about you have to lift the engine to get the sump out, so might as well get that done along with the engine mounts. It also has stuff like bad (inner) tie rods, ball joints, t-bar boots and the aforementioned mounts which I'm currently saving up to have Ford replace (plus there's now an occasional screeching noise which I'm guessing/hoping is just the serpentine belt). Quoted $1400. Ouch. :(
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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 8:42 am 
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Hey guys, have a ford ef with 290xxxkms with a loud tap, just wondering if a 20/50w sell helix would be good to use and quieten it down till I got the money to get the lifters properly fixed.

thanks.

 

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 Post subject: Re: OIL once and for all--updated first post--24.4.2010
Posted: Tue Nov 22, 2011 11:41 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Power: 148 rwkw

Location: Auckland
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If you plan on doing an oil change soon, why not try a product like Nulon Lifter Free ($14 at Supercheap) to see if that helps. If it doesn't work, it hasn't cost you much, and will be removed anyway when you do the oil change. It won't do any damage in the meantime.

 

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