Shell Helix ULTRA is damn good! I used it for many years in my EF 6.....and my friend (who is an engineer at ford, and has driven many cars like mine) says that my EF went harder than any other one he has driven (fully stock ofcourse). I put it down to the oil....also because i was reading up on some oil tests that have been done, and shell ultra (5w40) has one of the best SHEAR (when oil loses its strength) rates of any other oil of the same price.


By the way, its been scientifically proven that the correct way to break in an engine is like this :

1. Sump full of cheap NON SYNTHETIC oil.

2. Start engine then start driving VERY EASY until engine reaches operating temp.

3. AS SOON as it reaches the operating temp (by the way at this point make sure your on a hi/free way and in 2nd gear (auto), 3rd gear (manual) ) from low revs put your foot flat on pedal (WOT) and hold it flat until u reach redline. Once at redlin, slam the throttle closed and let the car deccelarate by its own engine braking. (not "breaking"). When u chop the throttle at high revs the engine vacuum is huge!....and this 'vacuum' sucks out all the micro metal shavings from inside the combustion chambers. Then once your at low revs again give it flat stick and repeat this process again. Do this many many times. I would dedicate at least 1 whole day for this. Its all about putting the engine under LOAD. It pushes the Rings out against the Bore, 'grinding' them into shape, forming a 'uniform' surface with the bores themselves. Which in turn will give the best possible SEAL.
Whice THEN means your engine will experience MINIMAL possible 'Blow-By'. MINIMUL possible Oil consumpsion. BEST possible Fuel Economy. MAXIMUM possible Power & Torque!

Be sure to change your OIL & FILTER at 500k's. And DO NOT start using SYNTHETIC oil UNTIL 15,000k's!!!.

Feel free to PM me with any questions......or arguements, which i will prove wrong.

Ford have an LPG spec oil and It's a rebadged product from a major oil company. (I can't say who... trade secrets) My wife works for the oil packing company and It's very interesting how many products come from the same tanker.
BTW how much do you think a 44 gallon (205ltr)drum of Mobil 1 is worth?

I know this is an old thread now, but i read this test some students did on oil viscosity and friction wear.

Apparently, based on their results, Valvoline Durablend was one of the best, with less friction wear than some of the leading, more expensive brands.

Based on their friction tests, the average wear on the part being tested was around 7-8 millimetres. The durablend left a wear mark of just one millimetre. I think the durablend retails for around $40 for 5 litres. I'll try to find the link and put it on here.

Well, that's my two cents worth.

Is it still ok to use 15W50 in the XY? Its a 250.... 1971, not rebuilt.

Ok well today I stuck 15W40 in it... will it be ok or does it need to be 15W50

Ive got a bottle of BP Visco 3000 lying around the living room, and after reading all this its definately going in the EB instead of the AU. I think Ill go the Visco 5000 for the AU with its much lower starting weight.

Anyone have any bad thoughts about the BP Visco semi synth/ full synth oils?

Or will this shell helix ultra rock my world? I admit a warry caution to using shell helix products- any oil you can buy for 20 bucks in Kmart or Coles is about as good as using recycled oil to me. How does the ultra differ?

My old man recomended the Visco he uses on his BA mkII XR6T, (the 5000) was he correct in doing so?

Thanks For All The Info, It Was A Great Read!

It all depends on the type of oil u use. U can have a fully kickass SYNTHETIC 15w40......and a cheap s**t oil thats also rated 15w40.

Does that mean they will both protect the same??......NO WAY!

The cheap s**t oil will 'shear' down to a 20 weight oil (even though it says 40) when its in the bearings (due to the heat and load).

Whereas the more expensive 15w40 will actually stay true to its claim, and remain a 40 weight oil in the bearings.

xf 1985 4.1 new rebuild engine with ACL rings/pistons crow cam been to castrol oil web site and they recommend castrol magnatec 10w-40 or GTX 3 15w-40 for 3.3/4.1 ulp engs 1986-88 is this right i was thinking more along the lines of GTX 2 25w-50

break it in with GTX2 then switch to GTX3.

i'd just like to hear what you might think would happen if you were to run in an engine that has a flat tappet cam using that method?....

this is not true if you install a cam in engine with lifters you will need to bed the cam to lifters when my engine was fitted i had to start check timeing then rev car at 1800rpm for 10 to 20 mins this way the cam and lifters are match and last a lot longer and cam wear is less of a chance of happening as well this get all air out of oil system
after this is done you then take car and bed rings in then for say 5000km do not sit on the one speed for to long (don,t drive Melb to Sydney at 110knm all the way step speed 30mins on 90 then 110 then back to 80 you just need to change your speed

it was in the instration when i got my engine rebuild

i agree

Car manufacturers generally run the engines in with monograde engine running in oil prior to delivery of the vehicle to the new owner. it contains no adatives or protectants or anything and allows the parts to mesh together.

repco sell it running in oil valvoline make it. it straight 30 grade