i've been using castrol magnatec in my EF mont so far. 2 changes down since I got it
i did go thru 2 litres in 10000km however.

i drop in the nulon engine treatment prior to a change to get the oil nice and thin, take it for a drive, then drop the oil while its hot - makes sure it gets ALL the old oil out. top it up with the new magnatec 10w-40 and we're off for another 10000km stint.

my EF has just rolled over 250,000km. it appears that the head has been off and done at some stage too, so, not sure how the thing was treated/driven when the headgasket went, and how many changes were done at the time of the headgasket being replaced ...

FWIW i've used magnatec for years and years. no issues with it, albeit, it wasn't in Fords (sorry guys)

hi guys, just after a quick response if possible.
have a new AU motor in my AU, first 1500 was done on a mineral run-in oil (bursons brand i think), next 5000 have been on GTX 3 (semi synth) early change as i dont want too many particles floating around the engine as its just recently run in, now i want to go for a fully synthetic, and i'm thinking nulon hi-tech 10w-40? what kind of life will i expect out of the nulon?
cheers guys!

I use this exact oil. The fast flowing full synth version. I can get up to 10,000km with this oil. I use a K&N oil filter to help collect as many particles in the oil. Nulon for me is the winner.

awesome, i ended up going for the nulon. and using a k&n too. so should be sweet!
next stop 10,000. cheers!

K&N oil filters will filter 98% at 35 microns,50% at 16 microns.

Donaldson endurence filters will filter
98.7% at 15 micron contaminants, 50% 7 micron.
they also have a higher dirt holding capacity and a higher crack pressure on the bypass valve

the cross reference for a ryco Z9 or motorcraft AFL1 is P-169071

Last edited by tickford_6 on Sun Apr 18, 2010 2:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

after years of saying penrite is crap due to sludging up engines (based on personal experience)
Through recent research i have found the reason.
Penrites basic HPR range has wide viscosity index, HPR10 is a 10W50 To do this they use Viscosity Index Improvers (VII) When oil is sheared between cam lobes and followers and on the loaded side of bearing during the power stroke, these VIIs are broken down, the result is thinning of the oil and sludge.
For further info. search the web.

tickford_6 i can tell how much you absolutely hate Penrite.

i agree with you that hpr is overpriced piss, but have you ever tried SIN 15 (SAE 15W-50)

i have been using sin range on my cars and i can vouch its worth every cent,
i no your fairly mechanically knowledged so whats your opinion on there sin range??

the SIN range is probaly ok. It's possible to build a synthetic oil with wide vis index with only small amounts of VIIs if they use the right base oil.

But you know what they say about first impressions. Unfortunately previous experience has me very reluctant to use it again.


On further looking just now, They claim that SIN15 has no 'conventional' VIIs added and it will not suffer the same problems with shear as the other oils. SIN10 10W70 doesn't stat this in the data sheet, so i would asume that SIN10 contains conventional VIIs and would still suffer with shear issues.

SIN 0 says carefully chosen VIIs to reduce shear issues. but again i would assume, based on the way penrite has writen all this info, that to some degree it will still have the issue.

But thats only ever part of the story. the base oil is big factor, they claim to use POA and Ester oils in undisclosed % in the sin range.

My other concern is there 'thicker is better' marketing. It's false and misleading, but we'd have delve into used oil analysis to show it. I have seen results from 0W20 synthetic valvoline that out performs many of the supposed good oils in the xW40 and xW50 range.

And guys, with a new engine, its always a good idea to stick a magnet onto the oil filter, its a sure fire way of catching & removeing all the running-in metal "paste" that you get in the first stages. It doesn't need to be anything special, I use old fridge magnets, and you can see what its caught after draining the filter and cutting it open.

i just filled with 20w50 'for older engines'

eb2 with over 300,000kms and wade977b cam

makes a metal-on-metal noise for the first 2 secs after starting :S :S :S

is this oil too thick or something? I only used it rather than buying something specific because it was sitting in the garage so I didn't have to pay for it lol

I would say a little thick for winter time approaching. A 10w/40 would be better suited regardless of km's IMHO.

Gday modders, Just got a freshly rebuilt el xr6, just done its 800k run in, now i need to give it its service any ideas on oil type? Im having it tuned in a week.

A good quality semi or full synthetic oil would be great to start this new engines lease on life. I certainly recommend Nulon Hi Tech fast flowing 10w/30 or 10w/40 for your car. On a new motor, dont skimp out on providing adequate lubrication.

Yeah thanks shav for your advice, i used that oil you specified and the difference that it made was great, its hard to believe that just an oil change can make such a noticable affect under the right foot. I second your recommendation.

so a EB Tickford 6 should have 15w40 standard right? what about one with 200,000kms and slightly low pressure at warm idle.
it has 3 bar when cold
1.5bar at warm idle
but goes up to 2 bar when revved when warm

and it quiet as a mouse apart from slight lifter rattle on start up