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| Grechie |
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thanks guys for the responses...
My old man told me it COULD be the top radiator hose, caving in under load, thus closing the hose (hose might be worn ive never replaced it) I will try all these and get back to you all...
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the bottom radiator hose is the one that collapses at RPM, theres an internal spring inside the hose that helps keep its shape, but rusts away over time.
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| xpression |
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the top hose wont cave in, the bottom one will
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| Grechie |
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Ahh i see, so the bottom one can be shutting under RPM, how come the top one wont ?
ill look into replacing bottom hose thanks guys
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| RedRoo |
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Age: 54 Posts: 1883 Joined: 22nd Apr 2005 Ride: 94 ED Fairmont, MY97 LE WRX Location: Seymour |
Grechie wrote: Ahh i see, so the bottom one can be shutting under RPM, how come the top one wont ?
thanks guys The top one has the water going from the motor to the radiator, so it's under presure. |
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| ghia97 |
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It is Normal for the guage to move up and down even thought it didnt before. The coolant used now could have a higher boiling temp than the old one, Lack of air flow will definatly heat it up with ac on in traffic as opposed to drag day when you didnt have a car right infront of you restricing flow, not to mention the head generated by the b**ch. Unless it is loosing water and performing poorly and you changed a new radiator cap and changed temp sensor and checked wiring i wouldnt worry about it all eseries that i own and have been in seem to move up and down in hot weather.
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| Grechie |
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Ok, i havent tried a new hose or temperature sender yet, but i was wondering this...
If its so called normal, how come, with thermos forced on via a switch ive installed and bonnet down idling, in this 36 degree weather, the temperature doesnt move from under the N (let it idle with some rev's here n there), as soon as i start driving, with the fans on still, (havent turned them off) it starts creeping up to the N nearing O then slowly eases back down under the N... sure its meant to move, but only a little bit, but i dont think people relize how much mine is actually moving compared to theres and that it doesnt do it under idle!
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| XH5LWEPN |
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Go get a radiator cap mate!!! Just try it, its cheap.
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another thing, check it with a temp gun.... you might be worried about what the gauge shows, but in reality it may only be a couple of degrees.. Gauges are never accurate, they are just an indication
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| danbode |
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Age: 36 Posts: 708 Joined: 19th Jul 2005 Ride: 08 BF MK11 Fairmont Ghia Location: Manly west |
Buddy i woulndt be worried ay, i just flushed mine with new hoses and thermostat and cap as mine was getting up to L on a hot day doing 100ks on the freeway, now it sits between N and O on a hot day in traffic with the air con on, i wouldnt be worried unless it gets over 3/4 and stays there.
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| Grechie |
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XH5LWEPN wrote: Go get a radiator cap mate!!! Just try it, its cheap.
i got one yesterday with the thermosat and coolant
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| Grechie |
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ill just chuck up some pictures on what im talking about anyways
here we are Pic 1 - Where it has always sat prior to last weekend for 6-8months (genuine ford thermostat, normal operation) 
Pic 2 - Where it usually goes to in the heat/traffic without thermos on...then creeps back down to pic 1's spot (when it was normal) 
PROBLEM AROSE: Pic 3 - In the city when i noticed i didnt have my fans on (i have them on auto control) 
Pic 4 - Where it creeps up to NOW only when DRIVING (REGARDLESS OF TEMPERATURE), but then creeps down to PIC 1's spot , this temp only goes that far when DRIVING, IF idling and revving the car (bonnet down), in 36 degree weather (ie today), and thermos on, it stays at PIC 1's location and doesnt move at all. 
EDIT: So in the end this is the temperature increase im getting now regardless of weather/highway/fans on or not:
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| Johnson stroker |
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I also vote on the cap needing replacing, the bottom hose inner has possible collapsed.
Woul not worry about the temp too much, it is normal for a reason.. I have run mine up around the A for about 10 laps at eastern creek, not an issue just let it cool off a bit before shut down so the standing heat would not kill it, and that was on a mid 30's day as well. I would not say the sender is buggered, otherwise you would be getting some pretty interesting fluctucations. I would put most of my money on the cap not maintaining pressure. the spings in em tend to go and the heat you have said you ran at would have potentially been the last straw for it. Just my 5 cents..
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| Grechie |
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But ive already replaced the radiator cap yesterday when i changed the thermostat and coolant ? didnt i alreayd mention that
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| Grechie |
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Problem 99% found...
Radiator, the passenger side is boiling red hot, and drivers side, cold... the bottom hose warm, the thermostat hose, boiling Raidators blocked Also i ate my own words.... Sitting there idling, Bonnet shut, thermos forced on, held revs up at 2500, (its cool outside now) the temperature climbed up and and up till about half temp, (now its definetly never entered there before) then i let go, and it got a rush and cooled down really quickly, check radiator again, boiling on the passenger side, and coolish warm on the drivers side, check bottom hose, warm, check thermostat hose, almost untouchable... we also pulled off one of the breather hoses off the radiator on the drivers hand side and nothign came out. New radiator time, and a manual one at that.
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