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| the sam |
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SWC wrote: fordnut1988 wrote: also should i buy new head bolts or can i reuse the old ones? If you are doing it yourself, get a workshop manual. If you don't feel confident, pay a good mech to do it. This is easily the smartest way to go. If you have access to a torque wrench, go to the tech docos and download a workshop manual. It will make life eleventy times easier. Its not a tricky job, just take your time and triple check EVERYTHING.
_________________ LOW, LOUD AND LUMPY |
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| fordnut1988 |
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ok what tools am i going to need i know i need a torque wrench but what else will i need also what size is the torque bolt
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| fordnut1988 |
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what kinda $$$ would i be looking at to shave the head?
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| fordnut1988 |
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well we discovred why the head gasket blew its because the previous owner has done it himself at one stage by the looks and didnt tiighten all the headbolts properly... grrrrr also we are having trouble getting the head soemthing is holding it at the end near the windscreen any ideas????
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| c james |
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same thing happened to mine a few months ago, i took my head to a reconditioning place to get pressure and vac checked, cost about 80 bucks for both. if you do this you will know if your valves and seats are giving you correct pressure with no cracks in your head. its worth while.
Make sure you release the head bolts in the sequence! dont just pick whichever one you want, there is a sequence. there should be no troubles getting the head it self out, i found the rocker cover a bit tricky to manovure around, have to ensure you get all the old gasket of the block aswell as the head, i got mine surface ground to get a flat finish. make sure you cable tie up your timing if your not doing it.
_________________ ED Fairmont Ghia. t5 conversion w h/d exedy, 3:45:1 lsd, pacemaker extractors, 2.5" custom exhaust, waggott cam,K&N high flow panel filter, TI performance chip w/ 4 tune switch(2 ED, 2 EL tunes) king 18's, el thermo fan w/ Davis Craig switch. 5000K hids,led lighting, doof box in boot. |
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| fordnut1988 |
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good news all my car is up and running again only thing is there seems to be a tap coming from the tappets i havnt changed the oil yet so its still all milky and has water in it once i chgange the oil and filter do you think the tapping will go away?
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| TROYMAN |
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you should have changed the oil before you started it up...
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| fordnut1988 |
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TROYMAN wrote: you should have changed the oil before you started it up... it was only running for a couple minutes to see if the engine was back together my dad gave it a few revs to make sure it was running once tghe oil is changed will it fix the tappet sound it quitened after a minute but is still there |
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| fordnut1988 |
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uniacidz wrote: change the oil Do not run a car with water/coolant in the oil whys that? i know i have to change it and am going to would it be right driving around the corner to my mechanic as i can never get the damn filter off |
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| efxr6wagon |
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As your gasket let go between a coolant passage and a cylinder, you should not have coolant in your oil. Easy way to check: look on your dipstick and under your oil filler cap. Coolant in the oil will look like cappucino or chocolate milkshake. If it looks like just oil, then it should be fine to drive to the mechanic.
Even after an oil change, it may take up to two weeks daily driving for all the lifters to quiet down
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| fordnut1988 |
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efxr6wagon wrote: As your gasket let go between a coolant passage and a cylinder, you should not have coolant in your oil. Easy way to check: look on your dipstick and under your oil filler cap. Coolant in the oil will look like cappucino or chocolate milkshake. If it looks like just oil, then it should be fine to drive to the mechanic. Even after an oil change, it may take up to two weeks daily driving for all the lifters to quiet down it def has water in the oil its all milky |
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| efxr6wagon |
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I wouldn't risk it. You could do some permanent damage.
If you can't get the oil filter off, I'd drain the oil and replace it with whatever oil is cheap, as it only has to get you down the road to get a proper oil change done. My guess is the amount of coolant in the filter is probably not enough to be an issue for a short run. But that's just one opinion.
_________________ 95 EF XR6 wagon, 17" FTRs, DBA rotors, KYB/Koni, AU bottom end, ported EF head, backcut valves, SS Inductions, Territory intake, 10.2 CR, Auckland 1258 cam, vernier gear, PH4480 headers, no cat, Tickford 2.5", 2800rpm stall, J3 chip |
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| fordnut1988 |
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my neighbour helped me do the oil change found out another reason that may have accounted for the gasket blowing i was using the wrong coolent i should have read the fine print on the bottle it was desighned for cars made up until 1980
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| fordnut1988 |
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hey all i it normal for the oil to be dirty for a while after new headgasket has gone in ive chnaged the oil once gonna do it again tommorow
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| NickyG |
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when i changed my oil today i found a great tool for getting oil filters off.. id assume you can get them from repco or super cheap. they are a socket attachment that grips the oil filter and they come off really easily. looks something like this
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