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rough idle and stall 

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 12:58 pm 
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Age: 32

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Ride: BA XR6 Turbo

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

I run my car on BP ultimate all the time but I never checked to see how much petrol I have when this problem occurs.
I think some researching or something will have to go into this so everyone can get this problem fixed and over and done with.
If anyone has any useful info or if anyone has dealt with this before to post what they have done in order to pin-point the problem

cheers

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 5:02 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Ride: EL - Fairmont

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

i think the problem with this is just somethin little that we've all got in common like spark leads or type of oil, or one of the filters something like that. because i only noticed it after i changed to magnatec oil.
just a though??

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 7:11 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: EF & VTR1000

Location: Wollongong
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clean isc
replace TPS
replace IAT

should give it the fix ;)
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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 8:24 pm 
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I've had things like the leads, plugs, injectors cleaned out but the problem still remains

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 06, 2005 8:26 pm 
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WA, Australia

Oh yeah and XCH45, wots the IAT

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 07, 2005 9:30 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

TheMont wrote:
my el does same thing as everyone elses here with the idleing, but the stalling only happens when my fuel is at a quarter or lessof a tank, or when i use 7\11 or sum other s**t petrol. i try and use bp ultimate when i can and it seems to run better


Get your tank cleaned out. If you use s**t, dirty petrol, then when you get low on fuel, all the crap on the bottom of the tank mixes with the fuel causing poor idle quality.
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Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:42 am 
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Ride: EF wagon & EF fairmont wagon & M

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

yes all the same probs on my EF 320,000 k's but it has gotten worse lately. I have been putting up with it since it was 140,000 k when I got it. My previous EL was also a sufferer esp on gas and I got that near new with 20,000k's and put 166,000 more before i wrote it off. I upped the base idle a smige so it won't stall anymore. I am firmly convinced that it is a whole combination of things, ISC, crapped out injectors, various other sensors. I just found a bunch of spares to try things. I am planning to go for gas injection soon. I will go talk to the local gasman recommended by victorian autogas supplies www.vags.net.au
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Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:50 am 
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Ride: BA MKII XR8

Location: Caroline Springs
VIC, Australia

I have the same problem as well, except mines actually stalls every now and then. I've had two mechanics and the Ford dealership take a look at it and they all claim it's fine. Hmmmmm.........
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Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 1:33 pm 
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Ride: 08 BF MK11 Fairmont Ghia

Location: Manly west
QLD, Australia

i have had this problem for months on end i ended up getting a diognostic only to say that my car running rich and lean and rich and so on, this was because of my exhaust and the leask it had, i fixed that after that i had also cleaned solonoides replaced leads, plugs, but just recently i had bypassed the ISC with an on/off switch and ajusted the bas idle up to bout 1000RPM when the ISC is on, when the car is cold i have the ISC switch on, when the car gets up to running temp i then turn the ISC off and this fixes the rough idle/ missing problem.

Daniel
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Posted: Fri Jan 20, 2006 11:23 pm 
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FordZombie wrote:
Oh yeah and XCH45, wots the IAT


intake air temp sensor, my car does it on a cold start up, when its @ running temp its fine, apart from the normal EF interior plastic shake when stopped at traffic lights, my guard even rattles ;) haha
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Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 1:47 am 
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Ride: BA mk11 XR6T UTE ,v8 fairmont gh

Location: perth
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Seems were in the same boat mate, I have the same problem, 2 mechanics and all the works still havent fixed it having another 1 look at it this week. Sure is a costly process, replacing parts uneccesary as the mechanics play the geussing game.
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Posted: Sat Jan 21, 2006 9:17 pm 
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Location: jimbour
QLD, Australia

If I may make a suggestion here , I would check fuel pump pressure .
Remove the fuel line running from the pump to the engine at the pump and very carefully used air pressure blowing back into the tank . Reconnect the line and then remove the line from the fuel rail and hold a container under the outlet and turn on the ignition and check the fuel flow .Reconnect the fuel line and give the vehicle a run under pressure . The quality of fuel available at present is very poor and leaving a residue in the tank , fuel filters must be replaced at a very regular interval
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Posted: Sun Jan 22, 2006 9:30 am 
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Ride: ef xr6

Location: goulburn
NSW, Australia

how u going,
ive got an ef xr6 that does the same what ive noticed is that when the fans kick in it goes till they turn off again. ive trid leads plugs etc. hasent helped so ive desided to rebuild the engine and get an after market ecu.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 23, 2006 5:19 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Ride: Au Falcon with TE50 Bodykit

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

Hi Guys

I seem to have the same problem on my au as well. It happens only when it is hot. Cold start she rumbles beautifully but when it hot she shuders and somtimes nearly turns off. Have cleaned the throttle body, changed plugs, leads, fuel filter as well.

Have had it checked at ford and they told me all the sensors did not give out any error but that the car was idling lower than it should.

About the blowing air into the fuel tank thing that was mentioned, it might need to be tried when it is hot to see if it a pressure issue.

So basically what was sed was to have air blown bank into the tank or into the fuel pump. Would cleaning the idle control unit on the throttle body help.

 

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 Post subject: Re: rough idle and stall
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 8:39 pm 
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Joined: 14th Apr 2012

Ride: Ford AU Falcon Forte Wagon

Location: Hamilton
New Zealand

Guys this is an ignition fault, caused by a coil in the coil pack dying.

It wont show up on a diagnostic because it cant send a "I need replacing" signal back to the ecu - it will read fine.

Ive had the issue before - replace the coil and she goes great again. helps to run a hotter spark plug than reccomended too.

 

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