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STALLIES!!! 

 

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 Post subject: STALLIES!!!
Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:44 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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guys an u plz give me a run down on wat they are and wat the do and how they do it, yeh ive done a search found jack s**t and yes im a total NOOB at this type of thing all help appreciated. im looking at getting a cam package from rpd was gona get the rspec 3 (or old stage 2 ) but ive been told they lack a bit down low so im keen on the rspec 4 will i need any engine upgrades to run the spec 4. yeh back to the stallies jsut wantin to no about them looking in to getting one when i get the cam do u help autos/manual i need all the help i can get cheers

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:51 pm 
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the stallie (or torque converter) is like the clutch in a manual gearbox. It slips at very low speeds and starts to grip when the rpm reaches a certain rpm. They work by forcing the gearbox fluid into veins - as it spins faster the fluid is pushed harder into them and its the force of the fluid that drives the car. Hi-stall's will have different shaped veins that take more rpm to force the fluid hard enough to turn the wheels so the engine has more slip (kind of like letting the clutch out at higher rpm in a manual box).

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 10:54 pm 
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ahhh i c says the blind man. cheers dude how does this effect daily driving, will it idle ok at the light or wil i b sittind at a red doin 2500/3000 rpm like when do they kick in etc

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:11 pm 
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nope, remember its like a clutch

a standard stall is like driving around always reving to a bit over 1000rpm before you start letting the clutch out. With a hi-stall its like reving it to 2000rpm before you let the clutch out. Its good because if youve got a cammed engine that makes no power 1000-2000rpm you dont bog down taking off.

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 11:22 pm 
Tyre Shredder
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ahhh sweet as so i can jsut plant it and away i go no sluggish crap then bam once i hit a certain rpm hmmm think i mite have to get me one of these

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 7:38 am 
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Whats there what are they like when driving though?? eg when Driving at 90km my car revs at 1500rpm, with a 2000rpm stallie will it still sit on 1500 or will it be higher at 2000+

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 1:31 pm 
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Molloy wrote:
Whats there what are they like when driving though?? eg when Driving at 90km my car revs at 1500rpm, with a 2000rpm stallie will it still sit on 1500 or will it be higher at 2000+


Not quite. All torque converters will slip a little until lockup. So when you taking off from the lights and accelerating you will be at higher rpm. When you get up to speed and are just cruising the ECU will lock the converter to stop slip. This will only happen when you get to 4th and are no longer accelerating.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:14 pm 
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I read that the stall speed is only effective if it is in the correct rpm range where you achieve maximum torque, therefore, for my car I would have to get a 3-3.5k stalie for it to be effective.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:36 pm 
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That may be true for race/drag cars but its not practical for the street. All your really looking to do for a cammed street car is to get you out of that dead zone where your engine doesnt make power as fast as possible.

Also you ECU can measure slip because it knows how many rpm the engine is doing and how many rpm the tailshaft is doing. If it detects too much slip it will send the gearbox into limp home mode. This happens at around 2500-3000 rpm stalls.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:39 pm 
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omg, this slip you mention, is that what i;m always feeling when i;m cruising, then put the throttle down and it feels like its getting into gear (when it already should be) like a lag of some sort, I never knew what it was.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:54 pm 
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That might be the torque converter unlocking, not sure really.

the best way to feel the slip is to put the car in D, put your foot on the brake and slowly bring the rpm up. The car doesnt move because the torque converter is slipping. If you keep bringing the rpm up it will start to grab and either the rpm will stop going up or your start spinning the back wheels. If you put a high stall in, you will be able to get more rpm before gripping/spinning.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 3:59 pm 
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yeh, I've done that, the wheels never smoke, the back just drops down.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:04 pm 
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ohh ok so if i was to say just b sittingat the lights like normal and was to jsut ease off it would drive normally thats the part im sort of lost on, and if i want to take of quik just build revs up by holding foot on the brake and because of the stall it wont spin the tyres but i can get higher revs(example 2300) and the take of when my cam is making its power not bogged down??

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 5:09 pm 
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ok change of plans again i no i do it waaaay to often but ah well. heres wat im thinkin, stage 3 turbo kit from snort performance http://www.snortperformance.com/ford_fa ... o_kits.htm.
Hows the price ?? quality??
and wat else will i need, i have a stock ef with jsut a 2.5" on it. would it b a good idea to get a cam,stallie and megasquirt from rpd at the same time get al installed at once and dynoed/tuned etc

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:27 pm 
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hey dude,

read this http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter.htm

it will explain how a torque converter works.

when u are cruising along in 4th and u put ur foot down a bit, the torque converter starts to slip
(like the clutch slipping in a car, only its supposed to happen) so that the engine revs can pick up and the engine gets into its power band.

 

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