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Synthetic, Semi and Mineral Engine Oil -Whats the difference 

 

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 Post subject: Synthetic, Semi and Mineral Engine Oil -Whats the difference
Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 12:09 am 
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Anyone car to tell me about the difference between Synthetic, Semi and Mineral engine oils?
Are Synthetic oils better, or are they just for different types of engines? Would it be better if I ran a synthetic in my EF I6? If so, what type, because there usually like 0W-50 or 0W-40, were Ford recomend 15W-40.
I noticed that there almost twice the price.

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 12:50 am 
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I use mobil 1 synthetic because Brocky told me too!

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 10:49 am 
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Synthetic oils basically last longer. The oil is "purer" and does not contain a lot of the s**t that finds its way into mineral based oil.

If you want technical info, hit google.. there's so much info out there - just be sure to find some that hasnt been prepared by someone who sells the stuff....

The only possible "downside" to them is that they tend to be pretty thin.... i'm finding a 5w50 to be pretty good in the V8, it's been said that they enjoy thin oils tho... dunno about the 6 cyl.

Tell ya what, I dont enjoy $70 per oil change :wink:

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 12:37 pm 
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Wouldn'tit be bad for me to run a much thinner oil in my stock I6?

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 5:22 pm 
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twr7cx wrote:
Wouldn'tit be bad for me to run a much thinner oil in my stock I6?


I was advised not to use synthetic oil in my EL (I6) because of the amount of K's the car has done (190,000) My Mechanic recommends synthetic oil in new cars only. It was explained that beacuse the oil is thinner I would likely , 1 start burning oil, 2 develop oil leaks.

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 5:41 pm 
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I've had the synth oil in my el i6 for about 8 years now, it never uses a drop!!

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 6:44 pm 
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Happy wrote:
I've had the synth oil in my el i6 for about 8 years now, it never uses a drop!!


So you must ahve started with low k's with synthetic?

He's telling me that after running so many k's on a thick mineral oil, synthetic would be more harmful than good.

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 6:46 pm 
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i started at about 45 thousand ... has just clicked over to 140 thousand last month

 

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Posted: Fri Apr 15, 2005 7:28 pm 
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I've got 640,000 and it's not using a drop of oil on 15W-40 Penzoil Duel Fuel oil, so I guess I shouldn't start with Synthetic then! ;-D

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 12:34 am 
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i do believe on the oil filler cap on i6 it says use 40 or 50 grade. the 0, 5, 15 doesn't really apply that much as it doesn't get that cold in oz. also synthetics have cleaning agents (among other things) in them. quite often carbon build up etc does help to seal in older inegines and by switching to synthetic it can cause problems, however.....

i bought my car on 230 odd thousand k's and switched to helix ultra straight away with no bad consequences. when you change the oil it may come out dirty but it is meant to. have just clicked over 270k and still going strong. i don't consider 200k these days as high. if you look after your engines they will last.

they may cost a little more but worth every cent in my humble opinion. of course if you just can't fit them into your budget, mineral oils will still work.

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 10:31 am 
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Dosent the topend of the Engine start getting rattly if you use an Oil that is too thin on the I6's :?:

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 10:43 am 
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1 SLY 97EL wrote:
Dosent the topend of the Engine start getting rattly if you use an Oil that is too thin on the I6's :?:


That is my understanding, Older engine - greater tolerances - need thicker oil.

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 11:43 am 
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it is commonly argued that most engine wear, or indeed a lot of it, occurs on start up. a thinner oil will get pumped around the motor a lot quicker. as far as tolerances go we're talking thousandths of inch at most. you could even use normal logic and argue that thicker oil or above recommended grade could speed up damage as creates more friction. moving parts will travel with a lot less restriction through a thinner oil. also the technology in synthetics today keeps them very consistant. much higher viscosity index than mineral oils. will not break down under extremes

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 11:01 pm 
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But looking at the older Falcon I6 motors ... the heads aren't as advanced as the current multi-valve DOHC engines.

The newer more advanced engines need a thinner oil due to smaller gaps/clearances.

The older engine has larger clearance parameters than late model vehicle ... and especially if an engine is only 2-3 valves per cylinder ... compared to most that are 4-5 valves per cylinder (and extra camshafts as well ... depending on the engine).

I have heard good things about the Castrol Magnatec for cols start-up ... even on older cars as well ... but when warmed up ... the Magnatec is a fairly thin oil.

For an older engine I'd stick with a mineral based oil ... as mentioned by PRYDEY ... the synthetic oils have cleaning agents that can cause premature wear to seals by over-cleaning them ... causing leaking (valve stem seals mainly from memory suffer from this).

In new engines .. yes use synthetic ... as they are usually filled from factory with a synthetic oil ... I know I will be getting a Synthetic oil put in my Territory every oil change.

But on my XG ute ... using a synthetic oil could be more harm than good ... I'll stick with the factory specified SAE rating for my next oil change.

 

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Posted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 2:05 am 
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I've use full synthetic oils on the Au VCT mtr from the time I have had the car at 3,000Ks in 2000. Ford recommends a 5w+ on the oil cap.

On my 73 buick I use GTX for older mtrs as the tolerances are not like the modern mtrs . Plus a lot cheaper to buy $16 versus nealy $70.

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