is it possible to test a coilpack off the car?

im guessing u need specialised equipement...

car is cranking but not firing....

you need a multimeter only a cheapy there about $20 from a car part shop or electronics store
what model is it
the test procedure is the same but the results may be different for different models

SECONDARY RESISTANCE
basically put the multimetor on resesitance so it can measure up to 20 000 ohms
now put one end on cyl 1 and the other on cyl 6 record result then do the same for cyl 2 and 5 then do 3 and 4

for an au these should read around 9.2k ohms or 9200 ohms
they should be fairly close

PRIMARY RESISTANCE
with the plug facing you coil pack furthest away and the primary plug taken off the pinout reads as follows from left to right pin 1 to 4

pin 1 is cyl 1 & 6
pin 2 is cyl 2 &5
pin 3 is cyl 3 & 4
pin 4 is positive primary terminal

now set the multimeter to read ohms and measure pin 4 to pin 1 , pin 4 to pin 2 , pin 4 to pin 3

these should be around .6ohm

also put the multimeter on voltage and test the voltage on pin 4 of the plug (wiring loom side) and put the other end of the multimeter on the car there should be voltage there while cranking

hope this helps

cheers

let me know how it goes if you get around to it

I tested the primary and got around .8 ohm

didnt check the secondary....turns out the coil pack was fine...

I was playing around with the lpg mixer and its was running massively lean.....coincidentally the fuel pump decided it wanted to s**t itself at the exact time!!!.....

figured since it wasnt firing on lpg or petrol it must be ignition related....I assumed wrongly and spent hours f**k around till i found a poor connection at the fuel pump plug...why after owning the car for 2.5 years did it decide to s**t itself at that exact moment...

I will never understand cars!!

things like that have happened to me before too

for example i was adjusting the rubber stoppers on the boot lid to stop it rattling and i shut it tried to use the remote and it wouldnt open
i had the use the manual release i assimed at the time that i tightened them up to much and burnt out the actuator
i got another actuator and fitted it still didnt work
turns out a wire in the flexi bit on the boot broke right at the time i was adjusting it not on the first shut either it was about the 3rd

sorry to bring up an old thread
is this the same procedure with a ba 6 turbo

it looks like the op of this post maybe had 1 coil pack per 2 cylinder ( I'm guessing au is like this)
is it a different procedure when you have a seperate coil pack per cylinder like ba
thanku in advance