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Timing Chain Tensioner 

 

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 Post subject: Timing Chain Tensioner
Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 2:45 pm 
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Ok, my vernier cam gear has arrived and i have a fair idea how to fit it but im a bit unsure about the tensioner part.

Looking for some directions on how to release the tension and also how to properly set it back again? And have searched but do i have to remove the outer part as well? Or can the tensioner be released and tightened without removing?

Also i assume once i fit the new cam gear, i must apply some Loctite(?) the cam bolt..... apply to the bolt thread? Also what type of Loctite?

Cheers!!!!
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 Post subject: Re: Timing Chain Tensioner
Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 8:43 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
Ok, my vernier cam gear has arrived and i have a fair idea how to fit it but im a bit unsure about the tensioner part.

Looking for some directions on how to release the tension and also how to properly set it back again? And have searched but do i have to remove the outer part as well? Or can the tensioner be released and tightened without removing?

Also i assume once i fit the new cam gear, i must apply some Loctite(?) the cam bolt..... apply to the bolt thread? Also what type of Loctite?

Cheers!!!!


Your better off removing the whole tensioner assembly, and stripping it to clean it, replace the O'rings/ filter, reassemble it ( the spring loaded bit and the filter only), reinstall it, use Loctite 567 pipe sealant on the outer section,( but only near where the big O'ring goes ), that goes in the timing cover. Then using a 3mm allen key, with a piece of 8mm fuel pipe to push on the tensioner and twist the allen key to make the tensioner push on the guide. ONLY do this after you have installed your Vernier gear.
Then put the centre bolt back in the outer section of the tensioner, using Loctite 515. This will stop oil sweating out of it.
Have fun.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:07 pm 
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Thanks for the advice.

I was wondering what the reasoning was behind the tubing over the allen key.

I read the tool is a 3mm allen key with tubing over it with 5mm of the allen key exposed.... So to lock up the tensioner i push lightly on the tubing while i turn the allen key clockwise until it locks?

Does it require the same method when releasing the tensioner, or do i just turn the allen key clockwise by itself?

Last edited by FordFairmont on Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:08 pm 
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Hey FordFairmont...I am about to do my tensioner on the XR.

I took some snaps but had to stop because I was missing one more O-ring which I had missed...the biggest O-ring was flat as a piece of paper and I missed it.

cjh...can you just use gasket maker on the Retainer (the outer thing you described that goes in the timing cover) and the timing plug (the thing with filter on it) to stop the oil leaks? I was going to use some of the gasket maker/sealant that I used on some parts of doing the head gasket.

FordFairmont, if you want I can load the images up for you now to show you what parts are there and how it all goes together.

phong =P~

 

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Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:10 pm 
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Cheers, im just going to relieve the tension and set it again to fit a vernier gear, so will be just removing the middle plug, but any advice & pics would be great !!!
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Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 9:33 pm 
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Here are the pics :D

All the parts that are in the tensioner. From left to right you have the retainer plug, filter, retainer, sleeve (this has a little plug thing in it which has a 3mm hole in it, that's where the 3mm allen key goes when you push it in), spring, piston plug and piston. The piston has protruding bits on the side of the piston to align with an indent on the guide in the timing case.

Image

This is the released state...the sleeve is not locked into the piston.

Image

This is the locked state where the sleeve locks into the piston. The piston has a dowel for the sleeve to lock onto.

Image

Some close ups of the inner parts and outer parts respectively.

Image

Image

If you don't pull it apart as I have, then you will only see the retainer plug with the filter attached, if the filter is not attached when you take out the plug, then you'll have to get a screwdriver to remove it from the retainer.

Just a note though. Sometimes the retainer plug may be stuck on the retainer itself due to the gasket maker or whatever was used to stop oil leaks. So when you go to undo the plug, the retainer might in fact turn with the plug and come out...so make sure you have the retainer held firmly by long nose pliers or something.

Hopefully that helped a bit to better understand how it works. I surely know how it works now.

phong =P~

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:40 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
Thanks for the advice.

I was wondering what the reasoning was behind the tubing over the allen key.

I read the tool is a 3mm allen key with tubing over it with 5mm of the allen key exposed.... So to set the tensioner i push lightly on the tubing while i turn the allen key anti-clockwise until it locks?

Does it require the same method when releasing the tension, or do i just turn the allen key clockwise by itself?


It doesn't matter how you get it out, just when you put it back together. If done wrong, it can stuff the block & the ancilliary drive shaft ( runs the dizzy and the oil pump.).

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 09, 2008 11:42 pm 
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phongus wrote:
Hey FordFairmont...I am about to do my tensioner on the XR.

I took some snaps but had to stop because I was missing one more O-ring which I had missed...the biggest O-ring was flat as a piece of paper and I missed it.

cjh...can you just use gasket maker on the Retainer (the outer thing you described that goes in the timing cover) and the timing plug (the thing with filter on it) to stop the oil leaks? I was going to use some of the gasket maker/sealant that I used on some parts of doing the head gasket.

FordFairmont, if you want I can load the images up for you now to show you what parts are there and how it all goes together.

phong =P~


I use what I use for ease of disassembly later. The pipe sealant never really sets,and acts like a low grade thread locker, and the 515 sets like plastic and works like a medium grade thread locker.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 7:03 am 
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cjh wrote:
phongus wrote:
Hey FordFairmont...I am about to do my tensioner on the XR.

I took some snaps but had to stop because I was missing one more O-ring which I had missed...the biggest O-ring was flat as a piece of paper and I missed it.

cjh...can you just use gasket maker on the Retainer (the outer thing you described that goes in the timing cover) and the timing plug (the thing with filter on it) to stop the oil leaks? I was going to use some of the gasket maker/sealant that I used on some parts of doing the head gasket.

FordFairmont, if you want I can load the images up for you now to show you what parts are there and how it all goes together.

phong =P~


I use what I use for ease of disassembly later. The pipe sealant never really sets,and acts like a low grade thread locker, and the 515 sets like plastic and works like a medium grade thread locker.


Is 515 thread locker? I have permatex blue which is a thread locker, though only medium grade thread locker, would that be of better use then the permatex gasket maker?

sorry to hi-jack the thread FordFairmont, want to make sure my engine works as well lol.

phong =P~

 

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phongus = Post whore 2006
EL XR6 motor, EL ECU + J3 chip, WADE 1673 Camshaft, 3" S/S intake, Pacy 4480, 2.5" Hi flow cat, 2.5" Lukey exhaust.
Max Power = 144.6 rwkw (03/05/2008)

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 7:23 am 
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thanks for all the advice guys and phongus for the pics, good work !!
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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:44 pm 
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Ok, i have inserted an allen key with tubing on outside and pushed and turned the cam sleeve clockwise to release the tension and it has locked and wont turn anymore...... BUT there still seems to be alot of tension onn the chain and im not sure whether to remove the cam gear now or not?

PLEASE HELP I DONT WANNA SCREW THIS UP?!!!
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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:55 pm 
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how large is the tubing over the alen key?
if the tube is 2 small in diameter it will just push on the spring seat not the tensioner .
i think the tube needs to be atleast 10mm in diameter to release the tensioner.
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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 2:58 pm 
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also the 3rd pick down the tensioner is together but its still at the full tension position..

it still needs to be rotated inward to the locked position..(full tension on the spring)= no tension on the chain.

hope this helps

Last edited by TROY. on Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:01 pm 
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the tubing is a 9mm rubber fuel hose, pretty thick, the allen key just fits over it. When i push on it the tensioner at the guide it can be seen moving forward, but i cant turn no more.

Also i noticed when i removed the middle plug and filter the chain seemed to go slack, but when i turned the inside to release it with the allen key it went tight again? But now the the bit where the allen key goes is loose and moves up & down

And the retainer hasnt moved, i made sure of that....

Last edited by FordFairmont on Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 3:06 pm 
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ok i used a metal tube over mine and i had to put a bit of pressure to release it.

just make sure the rubber hose isnt compressing when you push it in.
also make sure that the allen key doesnt have more than 5mm sticking out from the tube as the allen key will hit the bullet shaped piston and wont allow you to release it.
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