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Torque settings, yes, heaps of threads I know. 

 

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 Post subject: Torque settings, yes, heaps of threads I know.
Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:50 pm 
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Okay, I just want a definitive and group decision on this. It's and EF block and head, with AU gasket and bolts.

Steady ED wrote:
http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=33021

Tara Hymen wrote:
1st step: 30Nm
2nd: +120 degrees


AU Specs, should come with gasket anyway.


Is this correct, and how can I measure 120 degrees accurately? Can you do that on the torque wrench?

Krytox wrote:
JMM recommends:

1st stage: 40nm
2nd stage: 80nm
3rd stage: 110nm


Anyone tried these settings?

Sorry to start a new thread, just don't want to fudge this job up.

Cheers.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 04, 2007 11:57 pm 
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You need a special tool to do that accurately. Its a torque angle/bolt angle tool, available from tool joints, Repco,..etc. It fits on the square drive of a breaker bar. You'll see by the instructions on how to use it.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 2:26 am 
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i did the 3 stage 1, i did it as it is much more accurate. No probs yet.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:56 am 
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either way both will end up close to the same torque.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 8:13 am 
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Thanks lads, might do the JMM spec. settings.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 9:37 am 
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good on ya, they seem a lot more exact to me.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 12:08 pm 
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I would go with the specs that Steady has suggested.

JMM specs are technically flawed and could produce bad results.

You could do a 40NM and the 90deg like the e-series specs and will end up with the sameish results as the AU.
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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 12:34 pm 
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Yep, JMM specs are not good. Use factory ford specs.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 4:55 pm 
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I like Ford specs and all, but how am I meant to do 120 degrees accurately?

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:22 pm 
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This may or may not make sense but do a 90 degree turn. Then do a 3rd of a 90 degree turn. 8-)

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:24 pm 
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There is a tool that you can buy from tool shops.. Its like a degree wheel but attaches to the end of your breaker bar. That is the way to do it.

Or as I said, you can use the e-series specs of 40Nm + 90deg... much easier to do, and you will end up with the sameish overall torque on the bolt.
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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 5:36 pm 
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The 3 stage is better in my opinion, less chance of snaping the bolt and also they all are the same torque, as when you do the first one, then all the other bots, the first one will be lose again.

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 6:11 pm 
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shnoza wrote:
The 3 stage is better in my opinion, less chance of snaping the bolt and also they all are the same torque, as when you do the first one, then all the other bots, the first one will be lose again.

Show of hands from anyone who has used the ford specs and snapped a bolt and/or had a headgasket problem in an unusually short time.
Why reinvent the wheel when it works?

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 6:13 pm 
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just do them up finger tight!

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2007 7:07 pm 
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shnoza wrote:
The 3 stage is better in my opinion, less chance of snaping the bolt and also they all are the same torque, as when you do the first one, then all the other bots, the first one will be lose again.


You're opinion doesnt really count. If you understood the reasons why you do a xNm and a 90deg turn, then you will see that a 3 stage torque is bad... chances are you will end up with uneven torque across all the bolts.

By doing it the factory way is the only way to do up the headbolts and end up with a 100% even torque across all bolts. Also means you are turning the bolt less.. Less jolts and less chance of fatiguing the bolt.
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