I've managed to sort out all bolts bar one, looking from the rear of the motor, the bottom RHS one. For the upper two bolts from the bellhousing to the sump, I've dremeled out the holes in the bellhousing, for the bottom LHS bolt into the sump I've made a bracket since adequate room was present. I'm at a loss how to reliably and securely bolt up the last bolt at the bottom RHS of the sump, I'd like to have all in since the engine will have around 300hp... Here are some pictures.

(BTW - EL alternator and AC compressor fits easily with alternator bracket modifications, if anyones interested i'll send measurements and pics)










Its the bolt at the bottom of this pic that I can't figure out a good method of attaching to the sump...

Hey on a tangent, does the BF 6 speed bolt up to an AU motor into an EL sedan? Any further info re the conversion eg input shaft, clutch, bellhousing, clutch release method (I heard they finally went hydraulic), tailshaft etc???

Cheers

HI
I noticed you have re drilled the hole on the drivers side of the bellhousing i got a au engine in my ea 5 speed and the only bolts that didnt line up were the 2 lower bolts..

i like what your doing with the bracket for the bottom bolts.. i just left them out lol

I see your problem and I think I may have a solution. Can you weld? If you can you can weld a bracket or gusset in place to bolt against. You must tap/ hit the weld with a ball pained hammer untill it cools completly. I've never had problem welding Mild steel to Cast using this method. Don't do it if you don't feel capiable.

makes no sense to me....cant follow without actually seeing it..

whats the 2nd pic of?

also why did u need to dremel when troyman didnt?

Dont bother with the bottom bolts. 300hp isnt enough to trouble the engine->bellhousing join without them.

I'm fine with welding however I was hoping someone else had figured how to do it with brackets or something else I could engineer up like the other bracket in the second picture. The sump and bellhousing are cast alloy, to the best of my knowledge there's no way of welding steel to them. If you're suggesting welding steel to cast iron, I've done that before but the block is too far away from this hole



NFI This motor is AU series 1

my engine is series 1 au also..
and i didnt have to drill or modify any holes when i fitted it to the ea bellhousing...
hmm

Had a look at another bellhousing and its identical to mine... go figure... The bolts I'm referring to are the top bolts in the sump, 1cm down from the block - they didn't line up without dremeling out the bellhousing.

Got the car running with the AU motor (finally), spent a while on the dyno tuning it on LPG. Got 119rwkw but backed off timing for 115rwkw which had a much wider power band. It got about 460nm of torque in third. Complete list of mods to make the motor fit into EL:

- Cut and shut the sump
- Drill and tap a hole for the centre alternator mount
- Dremel a couple of ribs at the top and bottom of alternator bracket.
- Make a Z-shaped bracket for the bottom rear of the alternator bracket to bolt to sump
- Cut 13mm off the three air conditioner spacers
- Cut 13mm off the three air conditioner bolts
- Dremel out the two upper holes for the bellhousing to make it attach to the sump
- Make a bracket to bolt the passenger side bottom bolt from sump to bellhousing
- Change AU rocker cover for EL one, looks heaps better - they even managed to make the AU rocker cover as ugly as the car
- Change AU oil pump drive gear for EL distributor
- Change AU intake manifold assy for complete EL unit
- Swap knock sensor
- Attach coil to one bolt of intake manifold > head
- Attach capacitor to one sump bolt

Was it worth it? Probably, it's s**t smoother than the EL motor, vibration and harshness kicks in around 3500rpm instead from 1500rpm, until then it's Nissan-like smooth, completely silent, perfect idle and great low down torque. It's lost high end power because its stock, the previous motor had a cam to help wake it up so its not as enjoyable to open up and rev out. About 20+ hours of measuring, welding, fitting, grinding, refitting, swearing etc to get it to fit.

Now I'm at a loss whether I should leave it like this and bolt the turbo up or remove the EL head, have it machined and replace the AU head with the EL one.

Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't the EL head have larger valves and ports? Since the alted cam that's in the EL motor wont fit in the AU head, would it be worth my while to get a decent cam for the AU head or do a head swap?

Here's the power, torque and AFR curve
http://lotsofspace.net/au_dyno_lpg.jpg

Advice please! Cheers

Sure, I saw the hole above where you bolt from the alloy bell housing to the alloy sump. Thought thats where you were meaning. Can't say that you could weld steel to alloy lol. I don't think I would like to leave a bolt out though.

i dont know why you Change AU oil pump drive gear for EL distributor.??

i didnt change mine and im using a el distributor.. ive done about 20,000 kms and there are no signs of problems..
and they looked physically the same..
im interested if there is any real difference in the drive gears??

I mean I changed the AU gear that fit in place of the dizzy for the EL distributor.... I didn't change anything to do with the oil pump.

um why didn't just get an au bellhousing seems to me would of stopped i lot of f**k a** around

Thats what I did but they are very hard to find, $750 new from ford or $150 from a wrecker if you can find one. As Troyman said , if it does not upset you then leave the bottom two out.

Where is this source of AU bellhousings that you speak of?

They're made from unobtainium and priced to match the rarity of this material.