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what could be causing this? (dyno run w/new cam) 

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2007 10:51 pm 
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yeah the blue line is right...

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 11:08 am 
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hey you know what... it just might have fixed it! seemed to be pulling very smoothly last night after the adjustment !!!. I'll take it out late tonight and see how it pulls through 3-4k in 3rd and 4th :D

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 14, 2007 1:41 pm 
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good to hear! and i bet you thought i was talking s**t! haha

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 9:31 pm 
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hmmm well after a bit more testing looks like flat spot is still there :/

re-checked ECU codes, 111 system pass with the engine off test - am i right in assuming if the engine off test passes (should report any codes stored in memory?) the engine running test should be clear too?

also, any idea how I could get rid of the chain-noise? had zero before the cam, now have heaps... more when the car is hotter :/ I am going to take it apart and re-set the chain tensioner, but I don't think it will help since I didnt touch the tension putting the cam in...!! might a new chain fix it ?

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 7:34 pm 
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nearly all the guys i know who have changed there cam now have chain noise, what causes it who knows?
maybe a new chain could fix it, but its something you get used to after a while...

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 7:56 pm 
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forsaken wrote:
I am going to take it apart and re-set the chain tensioner, but I don't think it will help since I didnt touch the tension putting the cam in...!! might a new chain fix it ?


Most people try changing cams over without mucking with the tension, but most times it does move and must be adjusted back to how it was.
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Posted: Fri Aug 31, 2007 6:52 pm 
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going to get it on dynowog's dyno (heh) and see how its running and mess with it on monday! so some updates then...

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 11:48 am 
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You're probably already on this track, but be scientific about it - do runs with the BBM locked in each position etc. as well as with it operating as normal - maybe even try manually switching it at lower RPM. I personally suspect it's basically a mismatch between the cam's airflow characteristics and the car's engine management - ie. the fuelling/timing/BBM switchover just don't match the cam's profiling.

Something I wonder about is whether the cam design needs to take the BBM specifically into account? - I remember when I ran an EF std cam in my ED (ie. no BBM on the engine at that time) I had strange flat spot behaviour in the 3500 to 4500 range (tho it was a flat spot, not a sag) - makes sense it may work the other way too - ie. if that cam is originally a "non-BBM" one then that could be the issue??

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 3:18 pm 
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yeah... I am not really sure if there are different grinds for bbm/non BBM from the factory, but certainly wade/rpd/crow do not seem to mention it - but basically what that screw that FAST-XR adjusted on his does is change the balance between the long and short runners when the car is in the long runner mode (low RPM), so it must be changing the airflow characteristics!

Today I put the adjustable cam gear on and reset the tensioner, have yet to take it for a drive to see how it goes, the previous owner of the cam was running it 3 deg advanced (which seemed like a lot?) but i guess it would change from car to car... i dont have the equipment or specs to properly dial it in so i just randomly set it to 2 deg advanced and we'll see how it goes tomorrow...!

just to get this right, advanced cam timing = moves power range UP? (and retarded cam timing = more low end/less top end?)

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 3:40 pm 
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forsaken wrote:
just to get this right, advanced cam timing = moves power range UP? (and retarded cam timing = more low end/less top end?)


other way around, advancing the cam will give u more bottom end. retarding will improve top end

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 02, 2007 10:55 pm 
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ok thanks, might have to have a play around with it... altho it seems like its hard to feel the difference "seat of the pants" style! (cant tell much between 2deg advanced and what it was like using the stock sprocket)

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:10 am 
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Did the cam come with a specification for timing?? When JMM supplied my cam they included photo instructions for installation, shimming and timing - the timing method described by them is to put a dial indicator onto the top of No. 1 inlet valve and then set the cam timing to give exactly 0.039" lift at TDC (compression) - turning the crank thru from at least 100* or so before TDC each time a reading is done (best to just whip all the plugs out to make this easy). I think brendan said I could try as much as 0.041" advance or 0.036" retarded. The point is that it's a VERY precise process - trying to estimate from the position of the cam gear is probably letting you down really badly.

I know it's a completely different cam but I'd suggest using the dial indicator method and start off at 0.039"

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 03, 2007 1:14 pm 
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i bought it second hand, didnt get any timing details! :cry:
i don't have a dial guage to measure it with... but i'll see what we get a chance to do this afternoon

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 16, 2007 11:51 pm 
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mmm well bit of an update :)
the car seemed to pull smoothly through the range at dynowogs shop- no crazy drop in midrange power!!! so... maybe something i did fixed it afterall? or the other operator did something crazy? or? mysterious...!

anyway, it made 109rwkw in 4th and 117.9 rwkw in 3rd, not incredibly fantastic, however that was after i had been playing with the cam timing (advanced with the adj. gear).... however peak power was still at the same RPMS (4300 ish) as in the earlier dyno....

unfortunately the car had half a tank of 92 in it, so we couldnt do much with the timing at the time (since the cam change, it runs better/ gets better economy on 92 for some reason...), but they could hear it pinging a little! so going to take it back there with a tank of 98 in it. soooooo not sure what i will do, thinking about throwing a wade in it (1673) just to see how it goes (its cheap, can just sell it in the forum if it doesnt improve matters). car goes OK, but not much better than it used to really... :x

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 7:39 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Power: 162 rwkw

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NSW, Australia

mate you are about 30 rwkw down on what you should have with that setup!
109 is pretty much what a stocker pulls, fuel isnt your major problem, get someone to look at your cam and ignition timing, they go hand in hand...

 

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