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| EBGizmo |
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Just an update to anyone who is still watching this topic
After looking at the locks and throwing together some ideas, i've come to a decision for the mechanism. It will not involve modifying the lock in any way, but will require some steel, bolts, hacksaw, hammer etc - and some fabrication. I'll put the plans up when they are ready, but what I wanted to know is who would actually be willing to build these for their car? The goal is to build these without using a welder, and only drill/grind/hacksaw to make the required parts. The end result will be a mechanism that bolts onto the door behind the lining, that controls whether or not the handle pull movement is passed onto the lock. For safety, activating the mechanism will only stop the inside handles from working - full "deadlocking" will be achieved by having the mechanism activate with the central locking on exit. The basics of the design are finished, all that remains is to get it fastened to the door in such a manner that it will be safe after an accident and not stop people from opening the door under such conditions (hence the time taken to design it) Can I get a show of hands from anyone who is actually thinking of building these - as if no one is interested, i won't bother wasting my time on a docco. Materials are simple - a few short lengths of both 20x3 flat steel, and perhaps 50x3 flat. A handfull of nuts and bolts (and an appropriate tap) will also be needed along with common hand tools. Cheers 
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| Leroy |
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its certainly an interesting topic and have been watching and following.
but i cant see myself doing something like this.
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| snap0964 |
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Yeah, I'm up for the challenge.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| EBGizmo |
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I've got 2 designs going at the moment - one that stops the movement (easy to build), and one i'm still working on that doesn't pass the movement on when locked. I could settle for the first option, but I don't like the idea of brute force tending to try and break the inside plastic handle if a passenger gets persistent.
Will post up a very rough diagram of both designs tomorrow.
_________________ EF II Sedan
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| EBGizmo |
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Finally finished these two designs on paper, and fine tuned them on Inventor 10.
One design is going to be a lot easier to make than the other, with nowhere near as much grinding/cutting required. I'll be building the Simple version when I get time (probably a week or so), after I drop into Jaycar for their 200 piece spring kit. All I need to add to the design is the spring that locates the lever in two descrete places, and prevents it from vibrating from locked to open. Should be easy enough to make all four from a single tension spring and a pair of pliers. Thoughts people!
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| EBGizmo |
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Simple Design....
_________________ EF II Sedan
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| Big Kev |
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Sounds like a neat idea ... are there any ADR implications of fitting something like this to a vehicle that wasnt factory fitted with this ?
Only cause it imposes an issue of escaping a vehicle quickly in an emergency situation...if the cars dead locked whether by accident or watever and for some reason you cant get to the keypad/unlock button youd be kinda f**k  ... yeh theres windows but not all the time are the easy too get too/out of..
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| EBGizmo |
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I can't immediately see a problem with it as a concept, as its a standard feature on newer cars. If there is a problem, it will be in the design and how it is allowed to operate. This is why I steered away from my original idea of connecting both handles to the outdoor handle. I didn't like the idea of the button being pushed, or the central button being activated, and having to rely on electricity to disengage them.
This new design will be wired so that it can only be activated with ignition off, and can always be deactivated regardless of ignition by remote. I've yet to finalise the plans for the logical wiring, but I am still thinking of mechanical failsafes to stop it from engaging undesirably.
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| EBGizmo |
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Have looked up the ADR's for side door latches and I don't see anything that would make this illegal.
From what I can see, they only state that the doors must remain secure from the outside when locked, with the addition of the rears being secure from both inside and out unless fitted with child safety locks.
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| Stanxr6 |
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have you had any success with this project so far?
cheers, Jason |
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| EBGizmo |
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Haven't really had the time to look into it further. Making custom locks as per the cad drawings isn't hard - making something thats easy to fabricate from home for everyone is the difficult bit.
Just moved house and settling in, so I won't have much time to do anything for a while. If you are keen to attack this yourself and would like some input, just PM me - we just got reconnected to the net after about 2 weeks off during the move.
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| snap0964 |
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I had some spare actuators from my aftermarket install, so I set up twin actuators in the front doors (backs already have kiddie locks).
The fronts deadlock only with the alarm remote - dash lock switch gets disabled also. Deadlocking won't happen with the dash lock switch, or by pressing a snipper button, so the only way to deadlock yourself in the car is to use the alarm remote. Took a bit to get the setup to way I liked, but it does work well now.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| EBGizmo |
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Did you end up making the cad design, or something different?
Pics!!!
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| EBGizmo |
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on an unrelated topic, but still locks...
I DID get around to making up this little baby for the new house... Flick a switch upstairs to enable the lock, then go downstairs and press a button to enter
Saves a lot of stuffing around with keys when going up and down to do mods. http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gizmoman/pics/doorlock1.jpg See it working here: http://members.optusnet.com.au/~gizmoman/video/doorlock.mpg
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| snap0964 |
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That's a good idea with the house setup.
EBGizmo wrote: Did you end up making the cad design, or something different? Completely different - I've a second actuator that operates a rod (or pin) in the vertical plane. The door handle rod has two screw blocks fitted (in the cavity to the rear of the door handle), so the pin raises between the two - the bit the inner door handle fits to can be rebent slightly, so the handle opens, but the rod slides (in relation to the handle), but the rod doesn't move, so no stress to the rod or the doorlock. This 2nd actuator works in reverse to the main actuator - any unlock signal will ensure it unlocks, but due to some diodes/relays etc, only the alarm remote will lock it - even the smartlock keyfob won't lock it.
I do have a rough circuit sketch on an envelope that explains this better - I didn't take any pics funnily enough  .
I have a master actuator in the drivers front door, a slave in the passenger front, the master contains a switch I use to remove the dash locking switch earth when deadlocked. I don't run any external key locks, and the doorlocks have been modded for anti 'slimjim's' also.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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