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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 2:03 pm 
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as i mentioned before 6x9s are a mid range bass producing cone. You can get 3 way designs hat add the trebble but are a pointless speaker for the work involved in installing them. a 6" setup looks more effective and sounds better. Also note puting a sub underneath the parcel tray will cause problems with a set off 6x9/7x10 due to a weaker design in the speaker chasis, the pressure and resonate frequency of a sub damages and distorts the cone over time, and can be noticed in the cabin. but if you where to seal a set of 6x9's in a solid enclosure well thats better, nice tight punchy mid range
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 4:29 pm 
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cancelation through frequencies!!! ive never heard of that in all my years of a sound engineer! i think you mean phasing... some amps and active cross overs you may notice they have a 180deg phase switch, thats what its for to stop cancelation if there is any. nothing to do with frequencies. and when you tune the sub you're really only setting the frequency cutt off piont. if say set at 120Hz it will in actual fact taper off to around 160Hz. this is done so that there is an overlap and no frequency is completly lost.
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 7:14 pm 
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okay then guys talking about crossover then

i will ask a question about mine. i have a pair of sixes and they have a fixed crossover at 80htz. i used to have my sub at 120htz buti found that there would be a doubling up of sound. the sub would make 'boom' sound and in the background i could hear the 6's making there 'tap' sound. it was like and echo. my sub had the amp with the changeablke crossover so i had to put it to about 80htz. now that i did that the sound isn't there anymore but also i have lost some bass. is there any external crossover stuff that i could buy to put in the line between the amp and the 6's so they can be adjusted.
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Posted: Fri Jan 14, 2005 7:28 pm 
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The 6"s will most liekly only have a capacitor between the terminals as the 'crossover' remove that, add a real crossover (adjustable, or a fixed one of the rigth value), and you're set.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 7:46 am 
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the cross over on the 6's is from the amp. how much would the type you are talking about cost
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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 11:30 am 
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If the crossover is in the amp, and non-adjustable, there's nothign you can do, except get a new amp.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 15, 2005 3:55 pm 
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i went out today and bought a newe head unit. its an alpine cda9831. it has crossover features built in it. i also bought it because the system was sounding s**t have 6 channels running off only one pair of rcas. it is much better now and it blows the old cda 9821.
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Posted: Sun Jan 16, 2005 5:34 am 
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There are 2 types of x overs, active and passive. An active x over is fitted pre amplifier and passive is fitted post amplifier.
Majority of good home speaker systems use a passive x over, the main components beingof capacitors and chokes. The capacitors cut out the low frequencies and the chokes cut the high frequencies. Cheaper systems only use 1 bi polar capacitor meaning the woofer delivers low to mid high frequencies.
An active x over is superior as its easily tuned and supplies the amp only the frequencies required for the driver being used ( not like passive=distorted mid because of bass frequency clipping)
Instead of buying a new amp as suggested earlier, a far better option would be to install an active x over if the amps have been factory set at Flat. This means the sub amp can be delivered only low frequencies and the other amp for the 6x9's mid and high frequencies.
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 1:58 pm 
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i think the myth was a little twisted from the beginning. most people would say "don't bother mixing 6X9's with subs" and with chinese whispers it ended up becoming "you can't mix 6X9's with subs"

there's nothing wrong with it, its just that there's no real point.

6X9's and 7X10's are cheap-man subs :P if you cant afford subs, u get the biggest speaker you afford to run of ur HU.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 3:15 pm 
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aphexer wrote:
if you cant afford subs, u get the biggest speaker you afford to run of ur HU.


What you saying you can't run a pair of 15"'s of my 4x25W HU ??? :wink:

(not even if I add a 5F capacitor)

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 3:35 pm 
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what?

Im running 4x12's off my deck....

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2005 7:35 pm 
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yeh, 4 X 15" subs will work, just not very well :) unless you have a xplod headunit then they'll definately pump full sik

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2005 10:52 pm 
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totally off the subject but.. my parcel shelf has been cut to fit my 6x9's... if and when i get a sticker for my cracked windscreen :( what do i hav to do to get it road worthey again?? im thinkn about putn a bit of carpeted mdf under neath them to cover the whole shamozzle up!

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 1:00 am 
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NOCLAF wrote:
totally off the subject but.. my parcel shelf has been cut to fit my 6x9's... if and when i get a sticker for my cracked windscreen :( what do i hav to do to get it road worthey again?? im thinkn about putn a bit of carpeted mdf under neath them to cover the whole shamozzle up!


Hurry and get your windscreen fixed, then you won't get a ticket.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2005 12:16 pm 
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aphexer wrote:
..............there's nothing wrong with it, its just that there's no real point.
6X9's and 7X10's are cheap-man subs :P if you cant afford subs, u get the biggest speaker you afford to run of ur HU.


And there you have it.

I agree entirley. 6x9's aren't the best sounding speaker but they are a good compromise if you are not going to be running a sub.

If you will be running a sub and highpassing your rear fill at 80htz then there is not point in getting 6x9's however as rear fill you shouldn't notice any difference between them and 6"s because they should be quite anyway.

Ideally you would have rear fill banpassed between 500 - 3k in mono, so it does not draw the soudstage backwads.

In that case a good quality 4inch or 51/4 midrange driver would be ideal.

 

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