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| B Bear |
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Hey guys
I was thinking of updating some of my audio gear in the car and was looking for some suggestions. I would have roughly $500 to use for this. At the moment I have some Sony 6" speakers for the front and some clarion 6x9 in the rear. I also have a 8" sub in the parcel shelf and 12" Cadence sub in the boot. The 8" is run by a basic 2 Channel Amp off eBay and the 12" run by a 4 channel Clarion amp. I would like some more bass from the system as at the moment it is lacking even with two subs, I think the main issue is that the amps are pretty s**t for the job. I was thinking perhaps running the 4 speakers with the clarion amp and then getting a mono block amp for the 2 sub and getting a different 12" Sub. What do you guys think, even if you have other ideas I would love to hear them. Cheers |
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| Fordsrule174 |
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can you supply model numbers of your current speakers and amps and subs ?
the amp really is the deciding factor in most things as for the reason why i run JL audio slash series amps only for my car but they are hell expensive so that might not be a doable option for you to create more bass i doubt you need to get a new sub most 12" subs are pretty good the amp will be playing a big factor in that. another thing you can do is make a new box with a port or port your existing box
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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| B Bear |
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Thanks for the info Fordsrule174
 I can't really find any part numbers and such as I haven't really kept any. I was thinking before what I might be best to try is.... Hook the Clarion 4 channel (400W) amp up to the 4 speakers then buy a mono block for the 8" and 12" subs and then how the system sounds then. Possibly even make a custom book for the 12"  Any mono blocks you would recommend ? |
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| Fordsrule174 |
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im guessing you must be refering to the XR2410 or similar (only the looks change not the internals)
60W RMS per speaker is a bit of power it will run any speaker pretty easy i can see why you werent getting any power as its bridged power is 100W RMS each sub so thats bloody nothing ive got 75W RMS speakers all round my car so technically once you count the fact of lower than rated input voltage the bridged power would only be able to run one of my rear speakers at full swing can you supply a model number for the subs ? model number will be on the bottom of them you may have to remove it from the box or parcel shelf to read it but the parcel shelf one should be readable from in the boot
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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| B Bear |
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Thanks again mate, really do appreciate your help
Yeah I think its the XR2410, With the what you have told me running 60W RMS per speaker that would do the job just fine for me The 12" sub is a Cadence FXW124002 A link for info on it: http://www.myshopkart.net/pcidemo/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=2009152&products_id=28267363 The 8" I haven't inspected yet, will do that in the next day or so. I do know it's not running any massive numbers on it though. |
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| Fordsrule174 |
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2ohms at 400W RMS is a decent sub
we can make it loud mate what i would do is loose the 8" as the 12" will be more than enough then youll have a bit more money for a decent amp for the 12 the best amp that i can recommend for your sub is the Kenwood KAC-8105D http://www.ryda.com.au/Kenwood-KAC-8105 ... c8105d.htm can prob be grabbed cheap on ebay though but dont expect a warrenty at ebay now that amp is 500W RMS at 2ohms but due to its rated at a 14.4V input in reality it will be about 350-400Watts RMS at 2ohms and thats perfect now another thing will be getting power to it all the http://www.ryda.com.au/Aerpro-MX0042-10 ... mx0042.htm will get the job done but if they peak at the same time while at high volumes one of amps may switch off due to low input but i would recommend this if your going to run high level sounds at high level volumes alot http://www.ryda.com.au/Aerpro-MX002-150 ... /mx002.htm then you just got to get some 4ga power and ground cables
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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| B Bear |
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Yet again mate absolutely brilliant help !
 I am certainly learning a bit here.I was just looking at some of the kicker subs on youtube powered by the Kenwood KAC-8105D and my thought was would I be able to power both the 12 and 8" off it? Also good thinking on the wiring ! I forgot to mention it myself, at the moment I am running some 4ga wire and a 100A fuse. So that should be all good yeah? |
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| 67RCE |
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There is no need for fancy amps and big power for bass. Positioning the sub in the right location will increase bass, along with deck settings. I have a 10" Pioneer VCCS (not sure of the model number) running off the original 1994 Factory fitted Alpine 4 channel amp. This provides ample bass without being intrusive or providing insane amounts of boot rattle. SQ is where it is at, and this provides a budget setup with a reasonable (not great by any means!) quality of sound.
_________________ ILL60 - EF XR8, Sunroof, Ticky Kit, 19x8.5/19x11 TE37's, 347, AFr185's, TFS BoxRcustom converter, Hurst Quarterstick, huge billet cam. |
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| B Bear |
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That is true 67RCE fancy stuff doesn't always mean better. Though I think at the moment I am not getting the most out of the system.
I agree with you on moving the subs as well cause I have tried that a few times in different positions in the boot and some areas give off a better sound than others. |
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| B Bear |
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Also what do you guys think of farad capacitors? I have been reading up on them and see them as not being hugely need.... just wondering what you guys thought?
I was looking at these... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-BOSS-CAP2B-2-Farad-Digital-Voltage-Car-Capacitor-/120749606435?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1d3cc623 |
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| Fordsrule174 |
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B Bear wrote: Yet again mate absolutely brilliant help ! I am certainly learning a bit here.I was just looking at some of the kicker subs on youtube powered by the Kenwood KAC-8105D and my thought was would I be able to power both the 12 and 8" off it? Also good thinking on the wiring ! I forgot to mention it myself, at the moment I am running some 4ga wire and a 100A fuse. So that should be all good yeah? the Kenwood KAC-8105D is a mono block so it should only power one device the factory system is alright but not as good as a well setup 12" ive never tried capacitors but everyone says they are just a waste of money i also tried to factory system with a aftermarket 8" sub direct replacement and i found the parcel shelf wasnt strong enough it just kept vibrating and i had to dynamate extreme it to make it almost fully stop plus most subs arnt free air subs and need a box on some level were as a parcel shelf sub would need to be free air or have a box under it
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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| B Bear |
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I'll take your advice on that one and just use it for the 12". Yeah I do find that now even with the 8" there the parcel shelf rattles a bit with such then metal it's hard to avoid
 I may invest in one of the capacitors just to see if helps out in anyway, for 60 bucks its not that bad. |
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| B Bear |
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One other question Fordsrule174, when using the amp should I run it at 4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan or 2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan? The reason why I ask this is because with my 12" at the moment it is 400W rms....
I was reading the online manual and it said this: "The rated input power of the speakers that are going to be connected should be greater than the maximum output power (in Watts) of the amplifier. Use of speakers having input power ratings that are less than the output power of the amplifier will cause smoke to be emitted as well as damage" If I was to run the amp at 500W rms would it cause damage to the sub? Cheers |
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| Fordsrule174 |
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B Bear wrote: One other question Fordsrule174, when using the amp should I run it at 4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan or 2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan? The reason why I ask this is because with my 12" at the moment it is 400W rms.... I was reading the online manual and it said this: "The rated input power of the speakers that are going to be connected should be greater than the maximum output power (in Watts) of the amplifier. Use of speakers having input power ratings that are less than the output power of the amplifier will cause smoke to be emitted as well as damage" If I was to run the amp at 500W rms would it cause damage to the sub? Cheers your sub is a 2ohm so the amp will automatically run at 2ohms no mate wont harm them in anyway as the 500W RMS is only achieved at the correct input voltage 14.5V most likely be the case (this is a hard voltage to achieve even with the car running) and with those 2 amps the voltage will be drained down a bit so the actual RMS the sub will be recieving will be around 350-400W RMS and it never hurts to have it a bit over power as youll hear it distort then youll know to turn it down and mate if you are concerned you can turn the gain down on the amp and the RMS is only achieved at full volume with the correct input voltage (99% is 14.5V) the lower the input voltage the lower the RMS will be mate its better than underpowering it then the amp reaches it maximum power limit then supplys a direct DC current and then burns out the coil in a mater of seconds unless you get a JL audio slash or HD series amplifer the above information will apply
_________________ NF Fairlane Ghia, Brand New Leather Interior, Wallnut All Through, 800W RMS JL Audio Sound System, Lowered King Springs And Monroe GT Shocks, Custom BA/GT Air Intake, Holley Highflow, Simmons B45's, Going To Be Supercharged At 9-12psi With Stage 4 Head And Cam With Pacemakers And 3" Exhaust |
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| B Bear |
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Ahhhh that's peace of mind
This is all making a lot more sense now, you have been great help ! I think I will order the Kenwood amp off ebay with the 1 year warranty and all basically same price as the ryda site. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190450399602?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 |
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