i think you would have to spend more on the amp for your subs than the subs :S....i wouldnt spend so much on the subs n spend more on splits....try and get some alpine type-x gear, read good reviews on them

YOU WONT NEED A CAPACITOR!!!

also you havent taken into account wiring for the screens, both power and signal

the screens all come with wiring, but i knwo i will need extra wiring.. i would really like to stay with Rockford gear, as ive always had it and been very very happy.

so a T10001 or P6001 what would be better for the subs to run at optimal.

so 1700+ rms i wont need a cap. but will this all runn of my standard battery, its just a cheap one from Kmart.

If you like invest the $200 into a better battery...id say you wouldnt have to worry for now and do it later down the track...

As far as the cap the benefit of a stiffening capacitor the main benefit anyway is it will assist in providing a cleaner supply of current to your equipment and in competition will allow your to get the most out of your system and for longer...as voltage drop = output power drop which means your spl figure etc would fall....also caps can supply surge power very quick so again its a competition thing but it will supply current faster say to your sub amps than your battery would in this case..which is critical for fixed hertz "burps".... however in syaing all that most systems until you start to get pretty serious wont require a cap...and for everyday listening again unless its a huge system wont need a cap unless you run it at or close to max volume for long periods.

Yes it can fix or assist in correcting headlight dimming but to me if your getting that now and plan on this upgrade id be for king $300 on a new higher output battery such as an odyssey or optima which have a lots higher reserve capacity along with higher surge, cranking amps and cold cranking amp values.

ok well might do that, sounds good.

with the amp, a P4004 what speakers should i get to run of this.

and would a T10001 BE better than a P6001 which will only supply 300rms to each sub. or the T10001 which will suply 1000 rms min to both subs.

what would the best way to go.

on your amp choices....the p6001 wont be adequete to fully run the 2 p3 12d4's...2x DVC 4ohm coils wired in parrallel for a 1 ohm load...as the 2x 500w RMS woofers together to get the most will require 1000w RMS of delevired power...the p6001 supplies 600w RMS....the T10001 will however supply the 1000w RMS @ 1ohm... but a pretty hefty price tag at like $1300+ and are meant to be powered by 1/0guage cabling...also aint cheap....so that would be the best or you could go cheaper but you wouldnt stay rockford.....

If like the RF subs...then choosing the P3 12 D2 (dual 2 ohm coil version) and connecting to an alpine MRD-1005 @ $899 ... will give you the 1000w RMS @ 2ohms.... (2x dual 2ohm subs in parrallel make for a 2ohm load)...

so that just saved u like $400+ dont think tho going the alpine mono block amplifier that it is a major drop in quality...these have one many awards and i can vouge for the quality and performance as I run 2x in my 4x 12" woofer setup.

...... on other note a general rule of thumb for capacitors... you normally only have them connected inline with your sub amp as this is where huge surge current is pulled from...speakers dont draw much etc or anything near subs when there cranked....in most SPL competiton other speakers are disconnected...so when working out if u need one go on the sub amps power output value...1000w RMS you should go with a 1 farad to 5 farad is fine.

nah mate the T10001 wont supply 1000w to both...it will supply 500w RMS to each sub....but thats fine as thats what there rated at....those subs are 500w RMS with 1000w MAX peak value.....the alpine amps have a rating of 1000w RMS and 1800w PEAK.....

i really wanted to keep all the audio gear one brand, ie: subs and amps.

but the speakers doesnt matter dont notice them.

i can get a T10001bd for $800 delivered.

and a P6001bd for $550 delivered to door.

which one should i go, this car is gonig to be in auto salon.

so one brand is a bit better than differnt kinds.

Just back to the cap... A cap only works if it can be recharged, so with your car off it does nothing really.

With your car on, it stabilses the voltage, but not much. When your car is running your alternator supplies the current until you draw too much then the voltage drops down to the batteries level and starts to draw from the battery.

I've had 2800Wrms running from a stock alternator and battery in a previous car and it was fine. There was headlight dimming, but it didn't bother me. The best thing is to build your system first, then IF you do have dimming and want to get rid of it sort that out after the system is in.

i would go alpine gear if you want to all go one brand....its true rockford fosgate is awesome gear, but the price tag is quite exaggerated for what you are getting.
This is just my opinion but i believe for the money being spent you could get a better alpine system than rockford one just because of their value for money.

why dont i get some kicker gear as the 1200.1 amp is 1400rms and has come down in price since i bought mine. u can get them now for about 1000 bucks. get a cap if u think u will need it. i have a 2.5 farad cap and i need it with the system i have cause im using 2x12" solobaric kicker subs and running the 1200.1 amp all running 0 gauge. also with the cap if u set the boot up the whole setup looks heaps cool lol

 

 

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File comment: this is my setup with the cap 13052006004.jpg [ 276.17 KiB | Viewed 144 times ]

Why do you think you NEED it?

cause when i hit the big long bass notes it holds the power to the amp and keeps the current stable for longer bass notes. this is in an SPL situation. i do notice a difference because i run analogue autometer gauges to monitor current drop

mmm id max

i have alot of experince with soundstrem subs, spkrs and amps, very good stuff!

yeah thinking of going alpine now, bit cheaper and is jsut as good..