I am currently in negotiations with a plastic moulder to have my original the A pillar design mass produced. (by masss produced i mean limited sets say 20 pairs) i'll keep you all informed.

Thats given me so many idears thanks, good stuff

Just be aware there is a significant difference in sound mouted in that location as opposed to the A-pillar.
The size of the sound waves at the frequency's played by tweeters is very small and only a few cm can make a huge difference.

I tried the sail pillars during tuning and found the A-Pillar to be much better for imaging and staging cues.

Unfortunately car audio often comes down to

Budget Vs Form Vs Function


Often times it is simply not practical to mount the speakers you want where you want but that doesn't mean that is not the best location for them to be in...

My method for midbass is a little different to what most people would do, but then I am not most people.
I use a Canton 3 way set which comprises a 1 in tweeter a 5 in midrange and a 10 in midbass. I now have the tweeters mounted in the sail area and find with this style of tweeter it works exceptionally well. Best of all the door trim can be reverted back to standard and look untouched which is a big bonus.
Cheers, Outlawxr6

 

 

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Looks nice but how do you revert the door trim nback to standard with a 10" driver mounted on it?

It is really easy the mounting panel only covers the area that the original pocket covers so once removed I can just put the pocket back on. Because of the slope in the basket I was able to fit it without removing any exposed material of the door trim itself, and these 10's are 100mm deep with a cast basket!!!!
The cut out portion can simply be glued to the back of the pocket and no one would ever know.
Quite easy really, Outlawxr6

I would have thought a 10" would need a much larger enclosure to perform to it's optimum.

The DLS 6.5" require 20litres and the DLS 8" midbasses require 25-30litres, which is 1c/f.

I would have thought the 10" would need at least .8c/f to have a smooth freq response and not be peaky in the lower midbass?

How do you find the freq response in that location? have you had it measured?

I am sure that a whole car door is more than 0.8cuft so that isn't a problem and they play nice and flat down into the high 30's......
Cheers, Outlawxr6

The door would be fine as an enclosure but how does the speaker vent into the door unless you have cut the area behind the map pocket? which would then be seen when the pocket is back on.

Do you have a pic?

The door trims have been cut but have been done so in such a way that the removed piece can be glued to the map pocket and the re-attached to the door trim and viola, never been modified!!!!!!!
No pics at the moment but I will see what I can do if my speakers sell I will obviously have to remove them and I will get a pic then for you.
Ciao, Outlawxr6....

Sounds goodf...

pyroay, Here are the pics as promised, seeing that the Cantons have sold it gave me an opportunity to get a couple of pics of the trim mods.
See what you think......
Cheers, Outlawxr6

 

 

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File comment: Back of door trim with pocket re fitted. IMG_1829_resize.JPG [ 64.07 KiB | Viewed 123 times ]

File comment: Back of door trim with pod attached. IMG_1828_resize.JPG [ 107.19 KiB | Viewed 135 times ]

Yeah looks fine but i thought from memory that the map pocket actually used the back of the door as it's back panel meaning that even with the map pocket back on it will still have a giant hole i in the back? I could be wrong though...

Yes you are correct but when you put the outside of the pocket on you can the refit the inside of the pocket back in place.
Where the hole was cut enables the outside of the pocket to cover the cuts so it isn't visible, a little hot glue and viola, all back to normal!
I am now back to my trusty Kef Uni-Q's in the standard locations in the doors which obviously lacks in midbass compared to the Canton's but it gives me peace in the home!!!!!
Cheers, Outlawxr6....

link isn't working at the moment :S