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What wood on full custom boot. 

 

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 Post subject: What wood on full custom boot.
Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 1:31 am 
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Ok guys, I have one sub atm and just having a box sittin in my boot is s**t me something shockin, so Im goin to upgrade my complete system.

But I am also goin to do a full custom boot.

I need to know what sort of wood to use to make panels(then carpet them).

Basically, will have 2 12's in middle, then from each side of the box will be panels and a little box to dispaly my amps(this will have plexiglass over).

So when the boot is opened, you will see one amp on one side, then another on the other side and in the middle 2 subs and all will look and sit flush with each other.

What wood should I use?

Hope that made sense.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 1:35 am 
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for the sub enclosure you will need to use MDF, the recommended minimum thickness is 24mm (I think?) but im not sure about for the rest of it.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:38 am 
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yeh 24mm thick MDF and if you can use glass rather then plexiglass as it will absorb sound even if not infront of the woofers and can rattle and or crack at high pressure, but if you use either glass or plexiglass make sure its thick, as for the carpet, just some short fibre almost felt type carpet will do, dont know where you would get this and i would imagine you would attatch it to the board with a staple/nail gun or a strong industrail glue.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 8:17 am 
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Acrylic(plexiglass) has very similar sound absorbtion and reflex properties to MDF the only reason it would fail is poor choice in thickness i work with plastic every day and have made a few sub boxes in 15-20mm acrylic and sound properties are awesome, the other downside is the expense lot cheaper to use MDF or fibreglass
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 2:51 pm 
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when u do it hellbent take heaps of fotos.. do some diagrams n stuff , im really looking to do a boot install aswell but dont know where to start. i'm running 2x12" and 2 amps :)..also xr6 EF wat is cheaper plexiglass or normal glass?
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 3:40 pm 
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amp/ other for looks walls wont need to be 24mm but keep it at probably at least 18mm....sub box 22/24mm is the best choice and no need for larger...18mm is fine for 10" and low output 12"s but for decent stuff definently 24mm...

As for plexiglass in most cases so long as there is adequete distance from the rear/front of the woofer obviously deopends on woofers recommended enclosure size and then how you intend to build it....but that the glass is held in strong and securely with as little air gaps as possible ...this will prevent most cracking....most of which only occur on installs where huge powerful woofers are used, are too close to the glass, enclosure is too small and contains too much pressure, air gaps areound the glue/silicone which vibrates and splits the glue etc....so if they arent high power woofers then dont worry about the thickness of the glass/perspex too much....

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 4:23 pm 
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yeh no way u need 24mm mdf, 12-18 usually works pretty well, and for the rest of the boot id stick with the mdf aswell... I have recently done my boot, yet to vinyl and suede it but ill post pics up next few days when I get around 2 it
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 6:20 pm 
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good luck with it sounds like it will be impressive!! post up pics as you go!!
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:15 pm 
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dsnow_01 wrote:
when u do it hellbent take heaps of fotos.. do some diagrams n stuff , im really looking to do a boot install aswell but dont know where to start. i'm running 2x12" and 2 amps :)..also xr6 EF wat is cheaper plexiglass or normal glass?


Perspex by far and also easy to handle and cut up yourself to fit.
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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 7:37 pm 
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XR6 EF wrote:
dsnow_01 wrote:
when u do it hellbent take heaps of fotos.. do some diagrams n stuff , im really looking to do a boot install aswell but dont know where to start. i'm running 2x12" and 2 amps :)..also xr6 EF wat is cheaper plexiglass or normal glass?


Perspex by far and also easy to handle and cut up yourself to fit.



Perspex!! thats the other one!!, I couldnt think of it. Thats what i'll be using.

And i think people are gettin the wrong idea of what I want this plexiglass\perspex for.

It is only to enlcose the amps, the subs will be be in a custom box made by a car audio place, they will be open, not covered.

But from the gist of things, mdf board is the way to go for panels, just not as thick as the sub box itself.

Well this will be started over weekend and will keep those guys who requested in the loop of how its all going.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 9:34 pm 
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sounds good mate good luck with it all....post up the end result and progreesion :P

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 10:02 pm 
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Ok guys, thought Id just put up a rough layout (best i could do, I aint no computer expert, lol)

Does anythin think that it should be done differently?

Remember, the amps will be in they own little display enclosures and no just screwed to the board.

 

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 12:08 am 
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looks good to me mate if you wanted you could get something written in the acrylic windows if the supplier has a CNC router.
seen it done with a custom number plate or pioneer written in there looks real good IMO
would'nt cost that much if they are cutting up the windows anyway
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Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 11:37 am 
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XR6 EF wrote:
looks good to me mate if you wanted you could get something written in the acrylic windows if the supplier has a CNC router.
seen it done with a custom number plate or pioneer written in there looks real good IMO
would'nt cost that much if they are cutting up the windows anyway


yeah i reckon that would look awsome, hellbent are u gonna keep the usability of the spare wheel with this boot install?
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Posted: Thu Oct 19, 2006 8:14 pm 
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CNC rounter stuff is cool....i program and run 1 everyday and u can do sum amazing stuff

as long as there staff hav enough skills it can be done...
just the more intricut u want the design the longer its gonna take to program so that where it will start to cost more.

and ur better off getting it done on the back of the glass to lave the front smooth and if u put lights behind it the letter or what ever will show up really good. but if it is cut out on th front of the glass it wont show up as good.
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