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2300kg towbar in Au series 1 


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 Post subject: Re: 2300kg towbar in Au series 1
Posted: Tue Mar 12, 2013 11:17 pm 
Parts Gopher

Posts: 55

Joined: 4th Sep 2010

Ride: AU XR6

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

well now that's interesting
did you recently install it or something?

Do you have an idea for the process to do the install?
 Post subject: Re: 2300kg towbar in Au series 1
Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 10:05 pm 
Fordmods Newbie

Age: 52

Posts: 1

Joined: 30th Mar 2014

Ride: Ford Fairmont AU III

Location: SEABROOK
VIC, Australia

thomas505 wrote:
Hey, any updates on this? I have the exact same towbar/problem on an AU Series 2.

Hi ppl, I am new here. Just finished installation of Hayman Reese R1769 Tow Bar. Big job! Hayman Reese R1769 is a heavy duty tow bar up to 2300 kg. Tow bar was purchased at wreckers for $130.00 with all bolts and gear. Normally costs about $1,000.00 to install it. It was in very good condition, just few rust spots. I cleaned it up, treated with phosphoric acid solution and spray painted it with black gloss Dulux, applied 2 new stickers and installed new aluminium bezel. It looks brand new!

I've removed rear bumper bar for this operation: remove plastic scrivets from the splash guard in a rear wheel well that are attached to the rear bumper bar (4 each side), remove nut (1 each side) just behind splash guard on the top that holds bumper bar. Remove both LH and RH decorative side liner in a boot and on the RH you will see another nut to be undone. On LH side to get to that nut you have to remove pressure relief valve square plastic tower like fixture - just 2 familiar scriwets (best way to remove them is wedge knife between "screw" like rivet head and washer and pray it of to create the good gap, than pray off the washer bit which pulls the whole thing out). Once you done that pull side of the bumper bar outwards - this will pull 2 studs that are attached to the bumper out of the car structure. Repeat for the other side. when all 4 studs out gently slide dumper bar off the car, freeing it of 2 plastic catches on the top. Remove square plastic assess panel for tow bar in bumper bar, than on the RH side you will see provision for plug installation, cut the long square tab off with Stanley knife to allow wire go through. This job can be done by 1 person.

Well guess what? LPG tank is on the way! Made my life difficult for a while there! Tow bar consist of 4 parts: Hitch with ball, tow bar itself, FWD bracket, and inside of the car bracket(lets call it boot bracket). Well you suppose to start installation (information of Hayman Reese installer) from boot bracket, which has 4 holes, that must be drilled off in a car structure and you have to start from the most forward hole (it is like a datum point), that just behind back seat and identifiable by round shaped part on the car structure. The other 3 holes are all in a row on the production dubbler (reinforced structure), which is highly structural and of course, it is exactly where rear feet of LPG tank are mounted. 3 holes that must be drilled of are in between rear legs of LPG tank, but tank is on the way of a drill, so had to drill it from the bottom. One of the long oval washers on the LPG tank had to be cut in order to fit FWD bracket underneath of the car.

It would be a breeze to drill it from the top (in a boot) if not for LPG tank. I had to drill 3 holes from the bottom after drilling pilot holes with 90 degree Dremmel, but most forward datum hole had to be Dremmeled out and it was not fun at all and lets say, hole was not perfect... Once this was done, FWD bracket was to be fitted and this is where lower structure of suspension interfered with it making me to boat the hole (drag the hole) on the bracket. Than tow bar was installed just to discover it can not be joined with FWD bracket, because FWD bracket seats hard against fuel tank. Ford fitted metal protective plate in this place and I had to trim it's support (plate was left intact).

FWD bracket was removed and reinforcement strip was severely grinded to make it fit (yes I know...). Fuel tank mounting bolts were loosened and tank mowed just a touch buy inserting shim pack. Special anti-chaffing tape installed on fuel tank and to both sides of protective bracket to prevent rubbing in interference area. Than all bolts done up with shim pack installed and pack is removed last leaving minimal gap between fuel tank and protective plate. That is $870.00 saving exercise for me! But I know now why they charge $600.00 for installation! I recon worth every cent!

Thinking back, if I'd do it now, I'd fit main tow bar underneath of the car, than from underneath I'd make sure adequate clearance achieved with petrol tank and structure (FWD bracket I am talking about), I would drill small pilot holes through the centre of 3 FWD brackets holes, than I'd make sure boot bracket fits properly and Datum hole would line up with that round fixture behind the seats and if it is the case drill it off. And most forward Datum hole I'd do last.

Word of caution: drilling from underneath with LPG tank installed id DEADLY dangerous, I protected LPG tank with THICK metal plates to avoid drilling into it. I heard the guy did drill through it - the fire brigade was called and 3 streets were evacuated. WACH OUT!
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