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| Aurora 98 |
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Oh, that aint so good. by that do you mean a flex crackor clearcoat peeling off
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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| baboon |
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Hello Aurora98,
The Australian dollar seems to be very close to 1 to 1 against the US dollar and with christmas coming up I've got the Makita 9227 on the wishlist. I've looked at prices on the internet and the best price looks to be about $US199 but delivery looks to be about $US90 to Australia. I was wondering if you knew of any suppliers in Australia for the 9227? Very interested! Thanks! Sorry ignore the above, I do it all the time, when I ask the question I find the answer straight after, http://www.justtools.com.au http://www.vektools.com.au http://www.gasweld.com.au http://www.powertoolspecialists.com.au http://www.makitafactoryoutlet.com (US based) |
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| DaveXR8 |
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Just make sure you buy one locally mate.
I almost made the mistake before as I was about to buy one from the US not knowing that the power outages are different I think i got mine for about $395
_________________ AU3 XR8 Manual, Full options,Pursuit Lip, Boss bonnet, Hurricane extractors, zorst, SS Induction, K&N filter, Flash tuned...191rwkw |
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| baboon |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Just make sure you buy one locally mate. I almost made the mistake before as I was about to buy one from the US not knowing that the power outages are different I think i got mine for about $395 Thank you DaveXR8! That is a very good point, didnt think of that! USA uses 110V AC and AUS uses 240V AC. http://www.powertoolspecialists.com.au/ ... ctsPage.do They have one on special for $369 at the moment and are in melbourne! 9227CB. Thanks again man. |
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| Aurora 98 |
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Hello back
Sorry I have not replied sooner, been a crazy three days so far working on a Monaro GTS for a custom restoration shop who's had to repaint it three times and sanding it one day after painting Anyhow I agree with Dave, the US machines are 110V and have a 5/8ths thread not 14mm though I do use 5/8ths backing plates and use a 3M superbuff adaptor to use pads with them I have two of those machines and my first one cost me $360 but now they are anywhere from 360 to 420 depending on who you shop with
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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| baboon |
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Thanks for that, another good point about the size differences too 5/8ths vs 14mm!
Your a busy man, I appreciate your effort, I dont expect quick responses so its all cool, no need for apologies. |
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| baboon |
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Hello again,
I couldnt help myself and got myself a Makita 9227CB sitting in front of me! Now, I trust your judgement Aurora 98 and was wondering what products you'd recommend I purchase to get my Narooma blue BA wagon up to a nice polished wet look finish with a nice protective sealant for a keen beginner like me? Now going through the threads I've seen... Isopropyl or Prepsol Claybar Prima Swirl Menzerna PO85RD Lake country pads Now I was wondering if I can actually buy the above from you as a kit, or buy a kit comprised of something similar from you? Also does the wool bonnet that comes with the 9227 come in handy with anything to get my wagon up to scratch? Thanks! |
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| Aurora 98 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hello again, I couldnt help myself and got myself a Makita 9227CB sitting in front of me! Now, I trust your judgement Aurora 98 and was wondering what products you'd recommend I purchase to get my Narooma blue BA wagon up to a nice polished wet look finish with a nice protective sealant for a keen beginner like me? Now going through the threads I've seen... Isopropyl or Prepsol Claybar Prima Swirl Menzerna PO85RD Lake country pads Now I was wondering if I can actually buy the above from you as a kit, or buy a kit comprised of something similar from you? Also does the wool bonnet that comes with the 9227 come in handy with anything to get my wagon up to scratch? Thanks! Great pickup buddy, it will serve you well, just remember to replace the brushes once in a blue moon to keep it working perfectly The makita wool pad is a fine pad but as with many wool pads can be quite linty, blowing bits of fuzz all over the place So make sure you wash it by hand in a bucket of water to prep the new pad The wool pad is certainly useable but you should keep that pad stored away for a time when you may have some severe scratches or swirls in a spot area. From the photos I've seen of your car, it definately does not need wool buffing on it. Prepsol should be used after claying to make sure the surface is totally clean The products are not as important as the techniques Yes you can purchase many liquid polishes, glazes etc from me plus Edge 8 inch pads, Meguiars 8 inch pads and alot more stuff including lake country pads
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA Last edited by Aurora 98 on Sun Oct 25, 2009 9:23 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| Aurora 98 |
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Okay buddy, your paint would most likely have 110 microns on it
Usually 40 to 50% of the paint finish is clear coat What you need to keep in the back of your mind is that a rotary is a powerful tool and that combined with a wool pad can slash paint layers off real quick with a strong product The more paint film you remove, the less UV protection that there is, which comes from the clearcoat Also no amount of over and over again abrasive polishing will deliver the results you want So this is what I recommend for you Paint neutralisation wash (dewaxer, clay bar buddy - helps the clay work be easier) Clay block with Bilt Hamber clay or Meguiars Quik Clay system - readily and easily available and a good clay too Then Prepsol Next up - Mask each panel's edges either the whole car or just one panel at a time as you work them (3M blue painters tape is best) Then you need to inspect your paint and determine how severe the scratches, scuffs, swirl marks, cob webs, wash marring and other defects are. Once thats done, it's time to correct it Prima swirl is what you want to work with as it's a deep deep paint cleaner and can be used with any pad from wool to a 70 ppi finishing pad
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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| Aurora 98 |
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You'll want to use the Meguiars or Lake Country Kompressor pads with Prima Swirl
I use the 8 inch meguiars yellow polishing pad and burgundy cutting foam pad as well as Edge black heavy cut wool pad when working with thick custom paint with wet sand scratches in it Once you finish with Prima Swirl, move on to Menzerna 85RD with a meguiars yellow polish pad or the Beige Ultra Fine finishing pad (80 + pores per inch) From there, you have many options, including these Prima Amigo with Kompressor gold 100ppi pad Driven Marine Sealant Glaze over the top of that as a glaze and sealant or My newly developed abrasive glazing polish (4000 to 5500 grit) Then Prima Amigo and Driven Marine to seal or Glare Micro Finish Glare Professional Polish or Meguiars Show car Glaze and Tech wax or any other product you wish to use
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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| Aurora 98 |
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It all depends on what kind of shine and finish you want
If you want your paint's colour shade much darker and richer, then use this combo Prima Swirl, Menzerna 85RD, BF-87, Amigo and Driven Marine Then Amigo and Driven over and over again whenever you wish (the more coats of Driven the better) Glare's range of products restore the original colour shade and enhance the clarity, wetness and depth, do not use these if you want to make your blue colour shade alot different Swirl will give your paint a richer look but Glare will take it straight back to the original colour shade.
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA Last edited by Aurora 98 on Sun Oct 25, 2009 9:43 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| Aurora 98 |
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Sorry that I've made a reply in three pages, I have a problem with typing on ford mods, the page only goes so far before I can't see what I'm typing
Anyhow this is the process for you Paint Dewax/Neutralisation Clay Prepsol Prima Swirl Menzerna 85RD Then enhance the finish with either BF-87 and Amigo or Amigo and Driven Marine or Glare Micro Finish and Professional Polish if your happy with the colour shade as it is From there, I do not recommend doing anymore strong abrasive polishing or compounding Continue to apply Amigo and Driven Marine or the Glare products every six, twelve or fifteen months to fill in any new swirl marks for a very long time. Your cars finish will thicken and get more like my Tickford's paint if you do that If the need arises to abrasively polish out a deep scratch or some marring, then either use Prima Swirl with polish pad or finishing pad or just Menzerna 85RD with finishing or finessing pad People who continue to remove paint film to remove swirl marks over and over again will find their finish to lose depth and clarity and also their finish will still not be as good as one that has been glazed and sealed over and over again. Work with the same layer of clear over and over and you'll soon find your finish to be thicker and shinier
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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| Papa Smurf |
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Hey there Matt, I saw the you-tube video about ICE, is it REALLY as good as it says? I am also going to clay bar my car next weekend and see if that helps a little?
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| baboon |
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I am absolutely amazed at the effort put in from you man, excellent!
So, Im going for the darker richer blue so I'll go down the path of: Paint neutral wash Claybar Prepsol clean Prima Swirl Menzerna 85RD Prima Amigo Driven Marine And I'd probably go use the polishing pads as I agree with the wool being linty etc. I really appreciate your effort, and I will definately recommend your business to anyone heading to SA needing some detailing done. Now do you re-sell the above items at all? I'd really like to purchase as much gear from you as I can see it as a small payback from your valuable info! Cheers. Oh yeah I've used your youtube channel quite a lot to learn techniques from you. Very informative. Slow and steady hey? |
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| Aurora 98 |
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{USERNAME} wrote: Hey there Matt, I saw the you-tube video about ICE, is it REALLY as good as it says? I am also going to clay bar my car next weekend and see if that helps a little? G'day George, ICE may look like something totally new but it is man made silicone and I've had to fix clouding, hazing and ghosting on vehicles before. Ok there's no cakey residue but your just applying silicone. to me thats a fake finish. ICE is only the icing on the cake, you have to make the cake first - ie - dewax, clay, prepsol, correct the paint then ultra finely polish it and maybe even glaze it before putting the icing on top
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
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