|
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
This week has been one damn hectic one and it doesn't look like slowing down with at least two more Ferrari's including a 430 coming to my associate's Glen Osmond car wash and detail facility
We did this little red rocket on Saturday Gtechniq P1 with wool, low cut foam and finishing foam (Lake country Kompressor) Menzerna PO85RD by orbital Gtechniq crystal Lacquer coating there's more that could of been done but he wasn't paying for that     
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
Papa Smurf wrote: Glad to see you back around again Matt. I do love reading your posts and I am learning a LOT about this sort of thing. One small question, Falcons with metallic paint, the clear over the top always seems to peel back more than other cars, is this normal or am I not looking hard enough at other makes? Mate has 2 ED's each with metallic paint and with varying degrees of peel on the clear, if I were to use an orbital polish machine (the type you can buy from Super cheap) would this aid any or would I make it worse? Thanks in advance for any help mate and keep them LOVELY pics coming.  Hey George thanks for the post Thanks very much, just wait till next year when my new service called Top Echelon will be released which will give the car owner the choice of up to six custom finishes that as far as I am aware, is not really available anywhere which combines certain polishes, cleaners, glass based glazes and sealants in a paint like mixing system for a custom finish. Depth Charge - for car owners who want not just a mirror finish but insane depth and clarity SPECTRUM - for car owners who prefer maximum colour shade enrichment. anything from 2 to 5 shades brighter or darker (their preference) will be available Fluid Finish - If a dripping wet finish is what their after, this will blow their minds Heavy Metal - Want metal flake in your paint popping out in 3D, then choose this.
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
George it all depends on the age of the paint
If his ED's are both factory paint then due to the age of the paint and most likely his lack of proper surface care, the clear is in a state of losing electrons Yes you probably can save it but you better hurry and will need to use Glare products with that orbital machine and terry bonnetts to provide an exchange of electrons between their negatively charged natural silicate ions and the positively charged paint Work the products (Knockout, Micro finish and Pro Polish or just Micro Finish and Pro Polish) until all oily residue dissappears into the paint (goes totally clear and only a tiny amount of residue remains) Apply a seal coat of pro polish by hand with a glare hand foam pad after using the machine and leave on for 30 mins or if possible, overnight before buffing off. This will thicken the paint with a protective shield of 2 to 10 microns of glass(we achieve 20 to 80) with rotary and orbital machines it will never suffer clear coat peeling after that. just use glare ultrawash and some pro polish whenever necessary and he's laughing If it's not age then it's the crappy PPG clear coats that they supply holden and Ford mostly High solids two pack baked enamel's are thinner than ever before on BA, BF and especially FG's so they need tender care If he wants to repaint it or I was going to get my car painted again, I would use Debeer, Glasurit, HOK or Standox paint and a Urethane clear coat of 4 to 6 coats
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Papa Smurf |
|
||
|
Again Matt, thanks for the detailed info. I will look into it as the car has a few scratches and scrapes, it is Polynesian Green and will look fabulous when polished.
|
||
| Top | |
||
| shav |
|
|||
|
very interesting cervices you got coming up Matt.
I may get you to do a Heavy Metal mixed with a Depth Charge for my car. 
_________________ Cheers |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
Thanks guys, I start work on all the products I'll be using, pad types etc etc in a week or two
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
TRIM DREAM V8 PROFESSIONAL VERSION
All those wanting their Falcon's exterior moldings treated to the maximum level, my new Pro version will soon be manufactured (a few weeks) and used in house at the Dream Factory The DIY version is still available and is a close second in terms of quality (designed for hand use) with our new pads The Difference between the DIY version and Pro version is all in the abrasives, cleaning agents and the protection offered Abrasives in the DIY version are limited to 2500 and 3000 The Pro version contains 3500, 4000 and 4500 grit super ultra fine abrasive particles made from metal (higher grade than automotive paint polishes) the Pro version is only for Machine use and will deliver superior protection and colour with the look of ultra glossy single stage gloss black paint. The cost to manufacture this formula is in the hundreds per litre due to the advanced ingredients, both natural and chemical (inorganic) I'll be producing a new video next month on the Pro system. Price to treat any Falcon from EF onwards will be $100.00 That's wiper arms and lower window trims and application of our Crystal Lacquer on the upper trims on AU to BF II models BA to FG models are the best to treat. Anyhow I'll get back to the tips and tricks of Automotive Detailing and surface Finishing
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
Hey George, it was terrific to finally talk with you on the phone tonight
Your kind words and compliments are greatly appreciated and they will be used to push myself to produce even higher levels of workmanship (car craftsmanship more like it) Keep the posts coming mate I can't wait for 2010 and to meet you and the great automotive people of Metro Sydney like Detroit Custom Bodyworks Anyhow this is what Lucifa, your AU XR really requires (coming from an AU Falcon veteran of 11 years with two of them owned) and still owning my galaxy AU XR Anyone with an AU can use this guide to get their vehicle looking and feeling awesome permanently Let's start with the paint Paint Neutralisation wash (I'll give you some of my own product for that) Clay block deep cleaning Silicone Remover wipedown (again I'll supply you with that free of charge) I use silicone removers from Glasurit, Spies Hecker, Chem Spec Metalux and De Beer From there, you can either detail it yourself with the products I supply from either Glare, Prima and Menzerna, Blackfire and Driven or I'll do the car for you while I am in Sydney (thinking of a week and a half stay)
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
Basically, the paint needs Deep Cleaning, some Paint Correction then Ultra Fine Polishing and finished off with some fine deep cleaning again and then Glazing and sealing with either Blackfire GEP, Prima Amigo and Driven Marine or the GLARE products for an actual sheet of glass protection on the paint
Rubber seals should be cleaned with an organic plant based soap and water and followed with silicone free or at the most, water based silicone conditioners and protectants The interior vinyl should be lavished with Driven to Perfection VRL, a silicone free super polymer conditioning protectant that is a matte to satin finish and doesnt need buffing off and produces more protection and colour improvement with each additional coat more info to come
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
Some tech stuff about Staining Trim with Polishes and how to fix the problem
For as long as people have been using abrasive Polishing compounds, they have been accidentally staining exterior trim moldings made of rubber, urethane and ABS After years of trying to find out the cause, I think I've discovered it All abrasive polishes use an abrasive oxide from either diatomaceous earth, kaolin clay, aluminium oxide and soon to come from me, Zirconium oxide These are not water soluble by nature so to make the soluble so they can be used in a liquid polish, Aromatic and aliphatic hydrocarbons have to be added to the formula to make them soluble These hydrocarbons (solvents) are probably staining the delicate trims and weatherstrips just like IPA (isopropyl alcohol) dissolves plastic and leaves a sticky feeling and horrible look. It might not be as bad as that but still damage is happening The trim will usually turn white. It is also caused by chemical soaps (any soap that a car care product manufacturing company supplies) - I now use Green Aussie Cleaner organic plant based soap to wash cars semi waterleessly and in traditional form To fix the problem, you only need a foam pad and elbow grease Glare Zero and or Toughseal Step 1 are the best deep cleaning products available and will totally remove the damage and restore the surface to a better than new or like new appearance. Keep an eye on my You tube Channel for more videos - my video clinic series is about to get underway
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA Last edited by Aurora 98 on Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:58 am, edited 1 time in total. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| alfy |
|
|||
|
hiya Matt, i know i said i was going to visit when i was in adelaide (was there last weekend) but my car shat itself while i was over there so had no spare time lol.
im after a bit of advise. (ive probably asked about a zillion times before, but this isnt for a ford this time  ) i have a Black over Silver GQ Patrol.   i want to make its paintwork look pretty much what it wouldve looked like new in the showroom, to the best of my abilities. (was my grandfathers car, and he left it to me when he passed away so it carries a hell of a lot of sentimental value to me) the pictures i showed here were afteer a light hand polish and a coating of Turtle Wax Excalibur Carnarbua (however its spelt) wax, again done by hand. hand polishing dosent do the best job... so, would you be able to give me a bit of your know how on what the best products to use are for making it shine like new? the black is just a straight colour, no metallic, but the silver is metallic. there are quite a few swirl marks in the paint too. im looking at buying a buffing machine from somewhere, as i have a $40 Repco one at the moment and its absolutely s**t. what would you recommend? looking forward to hearing from you 
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
Heya buddy
Firstly, machines. Whats your budget? If you want pro quality, buy a machine from any of these brands Metabo rotary PE-12-175 model $400 + Hamach rotary - VEK tools $521.00 Makita Rotary 9227CB - $360 to $400 Makita Orbital - BO6030 or BO6040 (the 40 is more powerful but way more expensive (double the price) Festool Shinex - $757 - I am getting both of these by years end Festool Rotex DA - $800 There are others, take a look on just tools, gasweld and VEK tools websites http://www.justtools.com.au, VEKtools.com.au and gasweld.com.au Products - I highly recommend Prima Swirl, Menzerna PO85RD, Gtechniq P1 and the GLARE range of products Gtechniq P1 would suit you because it's a 600 to 1000 rpm quick but thin cutting compound Follow that with 85RD and then use Glare Zero, Micro Finish and Professional Polish x 2 applications (orbital is best) to add metal flake pop to the silver and glass over the whole car. it actually creates a sheet of glass ranging from 10 to 80 microns depending on technique and how many applications
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| alfy |
|
|||
|
hmmm, one of the makita ones would probably fit my budget (just
 ) if that fails then i could always use the one at work.once i get my tax back and paid off my credit card debt (cant even touch my card at the moment, its burning hot ) i'll see about purchasing some of those products you recommended.
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| GeZza200 |
|
||
|
Matt the work that you do is amazing, I have a white EL and the paint is in really good condition but needs a cut and polish. There are water marks at the rear quarter panels but the whole car needs a work over. Do you do work down in Vic or do you know anywhere in Vic that can do the work that you do and the effort and quality you put in?
Also how much would it cost to bring the whole car paint upto looking top notch? Cheers
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
||
| Top | |
||
| Aurora 98 |
|
|||
|
GeZza200 wrote: Matt the work that you do is amazing, I have a white EL and the paint is in really good condition but needs a cut and polish. There are water marks at the rear quarter panels but the whole car needs a work over. Do you do work down in Vic or do you know anywhere in Vic that can do the work that you do and the effort and quality you put in? Also how much would it cost to bring the whole car paint upto looking top notch? Cheers G'day, Thanks for the message. Water marks are easily fixed with Glare Zero by machine or any paint correction polish (abrasive) it's best to Zero them I reckon as it melts them out without removing any paint) I suggest you ring VJ parthab at Infinity Auto and ask him if he has an authorised applicator in Victoria If not, then contact the best man in Victoria for the ultimate detail Mario - Euroglossprestige.com.au Give him a call. He isn't cheap but then quality isn't expensive, it's priceless.
_________________ June 9 - Sept 3 - in boise idaho USA |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: Google Adsense [Bot] and 20 guests |
