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| Rapier |
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hey fellas
This is aimed mainly at people who have done this mod. im attempting it atm am and just wondering what experiences people have had with doing it more so was the heaterbox completely replaced, or were teh accessories just added on. if its easy not to take the box and replace that would be good tro know, more worried about attaching the blend door motor to my current box is my concern. anyways ill add a heap of pics as i get stuff done 
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| mr_sperm1 |
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thought you'd have it done by now!
_________________ Maloo - Holden's word for ugly. |
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| Rapier |
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hmmmm slackness mate slackness
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| mr_sperm1 |
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as long as it's in one piece by the 9th! spose i can't complain - still gotta get round to finishing those seats
_________________ Maloo - Holden's word for ugly. |
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| Rapier |
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mr_sperm1 wrote: as long as it's in one piece by the 9th! spose i can't complain - still gotta get round to finishing those seats
this is true im more worried about finishing it by saturday when my pares come home from holidays they arent gonna be happy about me making a mess while they are trying to sell this house |
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| Krytox |
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I've installed 2 conversions, neither one did I have to loosen Or remove the heaterbox to install the blend motor.
The soundproofing can be moved or pushed up to allow more room, Either use timber threads and enlarge the blend door motor plate holes this way you can screw in the motor with self tappers! Or use small nyloc nuts with bolts (8mm) but if you choose this you may damage the foam on the flap itself as ur hands will be sweaty. either way it doesn't take long. As for the holes on top.... there're pre drilled 95% of the way. Just bend the old rod setup and u can puncture the heaterbox without drilling it! I used a stanley knife to cut the plastic for the hole where the motor regulator sits. (it has a casting line to follow) and then used sidchrome side cutters to cut the alloy plate behind it and didn't even come near the a/c evaporator! With the dash out it souldn't take any longer than 45 mins to install the lot! Like I posted before.... you'll prolly spend more time cleaning everything and it'll take longer to pull the dash and console and refit! with any luck... you won't pop into any problems!
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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| mr_sperm1 |
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Rapier wrote: this is true im more worried about finishing it by saturday when my pares come home from holidays they arent gonna be happy about me making a mess while they are trying to sell this house
hmm, i'd give you a hand but i work till 6am on saturday! if you're in the poocan on sunday lemme know and i'll help get it together!
_________________ Maloo - Holden's word for ugly. |
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| Rapier |
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cheers mate see how it goes, didnt get much done doday i wasnt feeling to good
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| snap0964 |
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So how's progress going with this ????
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Rapier |
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just chanin all the bits and peices on to my current airbox today, goind ok so far still have to cahnge looms and get the blend door motor mounted to the air box
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| fordzatmyplace |
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what you doin with the heater box from your EL?
_________________ ^^^ What He Said
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| Rapier |
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well was prob gonna throw its out as wont be much good once i steal all the bits off it.
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| snap0964 |
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Rapier wrote: just chanin all the bits and peices on to my current airbox today, goind ok so far still have to cahnge looms and get the blend door motor mounted to the air box Getting the BDM onto the adaptor may be the biggest issue (this is well covered already) - I found it difficult, due to the thick soundproofing used (maybe futuras use thicker stuff than GLI's), so I suppose you could cut away some of it around that area. I ground off the front lip of the adaptor - leave the rest so the arm will locate in it properly - it made slipping the motor pin into it a lot easier. You can use the same type of self tappers that mount the vacuum solenoid on the BDM, only need the 2 front mounts. They should screw straight in - holes should be already there. You can test for proper range of movement in situ by applying 12v to the green/blue and green red wires, and then reversing polarity.fordzatmyplace wrote: what you doin with the heater box from your EL? Rapier wrote: well was prob gonna throw its out as wont be much good once i steal all the bits off it. If you do that, might be worth saving the heater core out of it, just in case yours gets a leak in future, lets hope that doesn't happen.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Rapier |
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hey snap
i have the arm for the blend door morot off a high series heater box does this go straight in or do a need to modify the low series one? ive got everything else done apart from the BDM |
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| Krytox |
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snap hasn't answered :/
You can pop the levers off with a screwdriver, it slots straight in with the felt seal. Just use the screwdriver under it and lever it in one swift tap. its key'd (half moon) so it goes in one way only and has a friction clip inside, I've never broken one taking it off so it should be very painless! and like i said b4, use larger self tappers or use small bolts+nyloc nuts.
_________________ Carefree, we may not be number one, but we're up there. |
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